I have finally begun the process, tired of trying to make this one work....including not being able to reduce the gear lash, and also the input shaft moves about a quarter inch axially when turned manually, so there is evidently some play in the input side as well. But, I have not found instructions on install regarding alignment of wheel and steering. I have seen a mark on new boxes to align the output shaft before install, and of course the pitman has its master spline, so no problemo. But, I have not found anything re the splines on the steering column input, other than splines and a spring pin. So, does anyone know if there are any master splines here.....I will get the wheel centered as best I can. There are master splines on the actual wheel itself. So, if the gearbox is centered from mfr with marks, and I align the wheel, is there anything more on the splines to the box/column..... Second question that has different answers all over. Some say to drive the steering column joint up on its splines to allow room to remove the box. Others say to remove the three bolts on base of column to allow it to move up a bit. Anyone done this on the 66 year range. Mine has a large diameter bushing that contains the spring pin that gets driven out. There appear to be different types of couplings on the columns. I am just trying to align my world before laying on my back with 40 lbs of iron to remove. Thanks.
Steer Gear Replace
- Thread starter 66furys
- Start date
Master spline on coupling to the box and another master spline on the steering wheel.
To center the steering wheel, you adjust the tie rod sleeves. If you make the same correction on each side (ex. one turn clockwise on right side and one turn counterclockwise on left) you won't mess up the toe adjustment.
To center the steering wheel, you adjust the tie rod sleeves. If you make the same correction on each side (ex. one turn clockwise on right side and one turn counterclockwise on left) you won't mess up the toe adjustment.
Here's a pic I found that shows the master spline on the coupling to steering shaft.
Alright, now THAT puts you at hero status......thanks for the help. I hope it to be that easy when I take this mess apart. I was concerned about having the wheel at least close to straight when putting on the column to box. Yes, I will get them straight before starting. That should get me close, but maybe not close enough for tie rod adjust. But, if there is a master on the input, then all will be gooooood. thanks again. BTW, how in the heck did you come up with that shot?
Stole the pic off the intrawebs.
The only time you can screw that up is if you take the coupler apart (rebuilding it while off is a really good idea) and put it back together 180 degrees off. Steering Coupler Rebuild "How To"
Here's a pic of the coupler spline on my own car.
volksworld
Well-Known Member
if you have the style of coupler thats just been pictured there is enough internal play in it to remove the pin and slide it off the box...but i swear i had to unbolt the column to actually get the box out...wouldnt hurt to get a new floor -to-column base gasket from DMT while you're at it
volksworld
Well-Known Member
my note? why the aaarrrgh?
Whining because for sure mine will be the hard way. And sure enough, today, drive pin out and try to move the coupler up. One would think that this coupler with a cross pin could slide.....but noooo. So unbolt the lower column. At least removing the pitman arm went as normal.....a pita, but came off. But this is how my steer shaft and coupler look, and the spring pin goes thru the large round bushing like puck....that has the splines. I have not seen this on the interweb before.
volksworld
Well-Known Member
know the feeling...seems mine keeps getting further apart rather than going back together
I have loosened the two bolt clamp at base of column....but there is a larger plate with three more bolts. I am about to look at manual, but does anyone know if I can just loosen the clamp part and the two bolts to move the column.....it did seem to move a bit, but not freely yet. I need another half inch....again....aaarrgh, too old for this.
Finally found a thread on here with a good photo with circles on the five bolts. Evidently, the upper clamp with two bolts will not loosen things...have to loosen the three on the lower plate to get things moving. thanks
So there is more to this. Wish the manual or somewhere I could find a blow up of how the column is mounted. Top mounting clamp totally loose and wobbly. Now, the five bolts at the firewall plate are loose and pulled up to see daylight. But, the stinkin thing will not move up to get off the gearbox. So, I am assuming one more clamp under the dash that I will try to find once I get the krinks out of my back....not today. Any thoughts appreciated. The manual talks adjusting the column to allow a certain setting for the lower coupling joint, the one that looks like a hat with the cross pin inside. And, they made that one real easy to service. Maybe just pull the two bolts on the upper coupling and take that out....might be easiest. That way I can also lube the lower hat trick. And, follow Johns advice on not getting out of time 180.
rags
Senior Member
if all you're trying to do at this point is remove the box, you could separate the shaft at the coupler and drop the box away from the shaft. separate the coupler from the box once the box is out. peel the clamp away at the orange rubber seal on the coupler and drop the box away.
First observation is the good orange seal on the coupler. Someone's already did some work as those seals don't look like that after so many years.
The question I have is if you knocked the roll pin out of the coupler?
The question I have is if you knocked the roll pin out of the coupler?
rags
Senior Member
thinking he did. he sure enough has the concept.
All good points.....I knocked the pin out of the lower coupler, not the upper. But, I am thinking now to remove the two bolts from the upper coupler, and just pull that shaft out of the way....should not have fooled with the column....or at least I think. By removing the lower shaft after the two bolts, I can take the orange seal coupling apart and lube him.....maybe. I am not sure I can just peel the cover off the orange seal box....in place....maybe??
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