Steering column vibrating once I get to 75mph.

[david hill]

Read my other post and follow to the letter. When checking on jack stands. Spin driveline to 30 then 45 then 60 mph. This should help. Remember safety first.

 

[BeatersRus]

i dont know why you keep telling him to jackstand the rear when he doesnt need to do that.
you can check for wear while its off and stationary,not doing 60mph on stands.
and pay attention to what he says.

It vibrates underneath and in the rear now

the only thing that changed today according to him was wheel position.
the vibrations hes getting from Those components are probably wear related,
and the bent rim/bad tire is making them pronounced.
thats my guess.

do you have a spare tire/wheel? same size?
swap it out with the 2 back rims one at a time and drive each time see what it does.

 

[david hill]

If you want to isolate a vibration problem establish a base line to begin from, then proceed forward. To find the source of this vibration Running the drivetrain on jack stands will reveal any problems present{tires, wheels, driveshaft, diff]. The unknown is where the problem is. Finding where the vibration is the best way
find the right fix, not a guess.

 

[BeatersRus]

except im thinking hes doing this by himself so whos under the car inspecting it at 60mph??
safety factor?
and common sense hes told you crucial details already just by telling us that the vibration moved.
note that i dont disagree with your predictions of wear in the driveline,
i just dont share your method of finding it.
lets see what he finds out.

 

[Daniel Romero]

Side note: they didn't rotate the tires today. Only balanced them. Yet the vibration is now more prevalent in the back. I can practically hear the rear window vibrate. It sounds like when you're driving over the grooves on the shoulders of a highway, but a steady sound. Only once I'd pass 85 or drop below 75 would it stop the noise. However the "bog down" I experienced today was a first.

 

[david hill]

Rotate front tires to rear and rear
tires to front. See if vibration stops or moves. Bogging down may be a rear gear or possible brake problem.

 

[330dTA]

My guess is you have a worn out rear wheel bearing. All symptoms fit, I've been there.

Raise the rear end on jackstands and rotate each wheel by hand. If there is ANY noise, it's the bearing. My bet is the right hand side bearing. - If so, replace both at the same time.

 

[Ripinator]

My guess is you have a worn out rear wheel bearing. All symptoms fit, I've been there.

Raise the rear end on jackstands and rotate each wheel by hand. If there is ANY noise, it's the bearing. My bet is the right hand side bearing. - If so, replace both at the same time.

I'm betting on a bad u-joint. . .

 

[david hill]

Rotate front tires to rear and rear
tires to front. See if vibration stops or moves. Bogging down may be a rear gear or possible brake problem.

If it is a axle bearing, use the axle bearing kit from Doctor Diff. Web sight has the best price on axle bearing conversion, 65.00 for both sides. There is a youtube post titled Mopar 8.75 Rear Diff Bearing Replacement w/ Green Seal Bearings. Watch the video, should answer any questions on how to do this. If you have any questions pm me.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

keep in mind that bad axle bearings sometimes waller out the housing. I had to swap out the housing on one car because of this.


Alan

 

[330dTA]

I'm betting on a bad u-joint. . .

Quite possibly both: the bearing, and the U-joint. Bearing does not make a clunking sound, rather more like a whine or howl. But a bad bearing can cause resonation and consequently, chassis vibration, which will transmit to the steering via torsion bars.

 

[david hill]

U joints are easy to find. Have a helper shift from drive to reverse while you watch at front and rear yokes for movement. No movement in yokes = possible diff. carrier problems.

 

[Daniel Romero]

So it looks like it's the u-joints. I'll let you all know if I find anything else out. Thanks for everyone's input!