luigi164
Active Member
Number 94 ??
Steering coupler found
- Thread starter 67Impjuice
- Start date
In that particular illustration, Number 94 is indeed the Lares 220 item. "Coupling, Steering Column Shaft" in the Mopar parts book in section 19-15-23, PN 2530541
In other illustrations in the parts books for various years, it would be any illustration number. Number 46 or 89 or whatever. It's still 19-15-23, Coupling.
1965-73 Plymouth Dodge Chrysler NOS MoPar Steering Rag Joint Coupler | eBay
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1965-73 Plymouth Dodge Chrysler NOS MoPar Steering Rag Joint Coupler | eBay
The above seller is AMS Obsolete
3575303 is the same as some other Mopar #s
The above seller is AMS Obsolete
3575303 is the same as some other Mopar #s
Yep to both facts.
I've used AMS before. No issues, but I did not want their $200, 50 year old coupler. The $7 Land Rover unit worked just fine after making the mods.
Rubber doesn't age well. It gets hard and brittle over time. It's even worse because it's in a bad spot, near the exhaust manifold, so it tends to harden and crack from the heat. What looks OK visually may fall apart when you remove it. If yours has never been replaced, it's a safe bet that it needs to be. Even if it's been replaced once in the life of the car, there's a good chance it's bad if that was more than a few years ago.
No matter what, it's part of the steering. Do it once and do it right.
John Kirby
Active Member
I suggest giving it the hairy eyeball. They do deteriorate and when they break it's always at the worst possible time. If you see any cracks at all, replace it.
Mine broke when driving around a corner in a parking garage. Fortunately there was an open spot I was able to maneuver into. Otherwise I would have needed a tow truck. I would have blocked everyone from exiting the garage. Got lucky on that one. That was back in '86 or so. I was able to find one at a nissan dealer that turned into a chrysler dealership. The parts guy had to go through a couple parts books to find the right number. But I was able to order a new one. Good luck with that today.
My car had a somewhat pampered, two-owner life (about 24 years each) before I got it.
Here's my coupling....
carrman
Senior Member
Maybe a good idea just to have a spare on hand.
thethee
Senior Member
Would this also be correct for a '75 Imperial?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
And brakes
And suspension.
I cannot separate those three. Ever.
It's embarrassing when you nearly kill yourself.
Very true...
But I've also jammed a 2 x 4 in my Dodge Dart lower control arm when the rear torsion bar mount twisted free. Getting to work being the priority. I sometimes feel hypocritical when I suggest "doing it right" and think about the road side fixes that were supposed to be temporary.
Different day though... different traffic etc.
But wait....was it cheap pine or a proper hardwood like maple or oak? There IS a difference!
I found that the material didn't make too much difference. I used whatever I could find. Scraps at a construction site often gave the correct length and if it was dark with no one around, they were free. The key was to change to a new 2 x 4 once a week because of the splintering... and to avoid pot holes.
The ride did get better as the 2 X 4 splintered, but it would also ride lower. The ride on the rubber bumper (if there was one left) was better, but the amount of suspension travel was alarming over anything but perfect surfaces. (especially with worn shocks).
But seriously, there was a cottage industry here for broken frames and one specialty was the the A body torsion bar repair in the late 70's. The end of the bar anchor in the rear mount would twist and rip out of the mount even in relatively low rust cars. The solution involved some scrap angle iron welded across anchor to the mount bolts and a U shaped brace (usually scrap diamond plate) around the t-bar anchor to the mount. It only needed to be chromed to be show worthy.
It really wasn't rare to see one of these cars limping around with one side looking like a west coast low rider... and the reason for not of A bodies surviving.
Mike66Chryslers
Senior Member
The scary part to me is not that you jammed a piece of wood in there as a quick fix, but that you kept doing it long enough to become an expert in the technique.
Well, there's those 10 below days where your snot freezes and the great outdoors is your garage. Then put in a 10-12 hour day where it's dark in the morning when you go to work and dark when you come home.
You look and think "It's just a few more weeks until I can get the good car out and I'm going to junk this car anyway" and suddenly that temporary fix doesn't sound so bad.
Of course, someone reading my posts is taking everything I said serious....
fury fan
Senior Member
FYI, for those not aware - not every C-body listed below uses this coupling, it is only those with certain steering columns (IIRC ones made by Saginaw?).
My 65 Fury and 65 Chrysler use it.
My 68 Fury does not.
Every installation I've seen has a heat shield around it, make sure you've got one in place. The 'early' cover is a half-clamshell style, the later one is a cylinder with tabs for bolting it on.
Lares 220 coupler fitment from Rock Auto:
CHRYSLER 300 1965-1971
CHRYSLER IMPERIAL 1967-1973
CHRYSLER NEW YORKER 1965-1973
CHRYSLER NEWPORT 1965-1973
DODGE CHARGER 1973
DODGE CORONET 1973
DODGE MONACO 1965-1973
DODGE POLARA 1965-1973
PLYMOUTH FURY 1965-1973
PLYMOUTH ROADRUNNER 1973
PLYMOUTH SATELLITE 1973
My 65 Fury and 65 Chrysler use it.
My 68 Fury does not.
Every installation I've seen has a heat shield around it, make sure you've got one in place. The 'early' cover is a half-clamshell style, the later one is a cylinder with tabs for bolting it on.
Lares 220 coupler fitment from Rock Auto:
CHRYSLER 300 1965-1971
CHRYSLER IMPERIAL 1967-1973
CHRYSLER NEW YORKER 1965-1973
CHRYSLER NEWPORT 1965-1973
DODGE CHARGER 1973
DODGE CORONET 1973
DODGE MONACO 1965-1973
DODGE POLARA 1965-1973
PLYMOUTH FURY 1965-1973
PLYMOUTH ROADRUNNER 1973
PLYMOUTH SATELLITE 1973
Yes, indeed. Without that heat shield the coupler will soon be baked. My 70 has the cylinder style that you mentioned. Removal and installation of the thing is a bit of a fiddly pain, and I imagine many were tossed aside by a mechanic working on "book time" many years ago.
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