Ok, There IS a blanked nipple on my booster. So doing it this way I DO NOT need to increase rpms with idle screw or throttle while setting total timing?
Also, do I disconnect and plug advance vacuum unit?
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Store bought or homemade tape for timing?
- Thread starter GG-1
- Start date
Also, do I disconnect and plug advance vacuum unit?
saylor
Senior Member
the gauge has a rubber hose that will go to the carb base onto a nipple. depending on which carb you have will depend on where to put the hose, but some ports are manifold vacuum and some are not, so study that a bit
You're adjusting the base timing and/or the carb idle settings with the vacuum gauge. Base means idle, so the only idle adjustment would be if you're playing with idle screws on the carb and need to adjust idle speed to compensate for what you're doing with the needles. If playing with timing, yes you need to disconnect the vac line to the can and plug the line while adjusting, when done reconnect it and see what changes and how much.
livininharrow
Senior Member
as saylor said guage comes with a hose. connect it to a line beneath the throttle body of the carb. there should be a nipple somewhere with a rubber cap on it. leave all the other vacuum lines alone. or you can just bring the rpms up to about 2000 and advance the distributor till it starts to ping and then back it off and lock it down. then you should be close enough till you can have it set up properly.
There are two nipples with hoses on the front bottom of the throttle body.. one goes to the pcv valve, and the smaller one goes to the vacuum canister.
When bringing the rpms up do you mean by pulling on the throttle linkage? And after the timing is fully advanced and locked down, what do you mean by, "I should be close enough till I can set it up properly"? You mean set up the carburetor properly.. or final tweaking back and forth between distributor and carb in general?
I'm quite the newbie so thanks for bearing with me! You guys are doing a great job breaking it down.
livininharrow
Senior Member
there are guys on this forum that are better motor guys than me that can give you more specifics. if you are just trying to get the timing set close than just set the idle screw on carb to about 2000 rpm then adjust distributor till it pings and then back it off a bit.you should be in the ballpark. then you can tweak the carb and final timing from there. a good starting point.
Well thanks to you and to everyone contributing on this thread-- you're all better motor guys than I.. your collective experience= invaluable! I'll surely be referring to this thread as I work.
saylor
Senior Member
sorta. I think what you want is 'all in' - that equals what you mean by 'reaches ping' I think.
it means the dist has no more advance to give - you are maxxed out - you are all in. it could be around 2800 rpm sure.
it means the dist has no more advance to give - you are maxxed out - you are all in. it could be around 2800 rpm sure.
You know... I'm reading this thread and everybody is giving you good advice on how to do "seat of the pants" timing setting and that's all good...
But.. In reading your other threads, you have some drivability issues with the car that you are trying to address and it's all snowballing into where you aren't going to fix your problem or actually learn how to diagnose what the problem is.
You gotta start looking at the basics before you reach in and tweak that distributor advance until it pings...
First, download a FSM if you haven't already. MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals . Read through the ignition section and figure out what the factory settings are. You can't go wrong with how Chrysler said to do it. Later, you might be able to improve on it, but stick with the stock settings for now until you get the car running right.
Second, without touching anything... loosening anything etc. Check the timing. Since you bought the fancy timing light, check the dwell too. Are they correct? If not, then you correct them. Take the car for a test drive and see if it helped.
When you check and you find the initial timing is right, the dwell is right, then it's time to look elsewhere.
One important piece of info that I found in re-reading your other posts is this car has sat for a while. Bad gas may be playing a part in your problem.
Here's what I suggest... You need to start one thread... Not a bunch of threads.... on your drivability problems. Spell out every symptom and everything you've done to try to help it. You are getting some very good recommendations here... but they may not know that you are battling with just getting the car to run right. There's a lot of very good guys that will try to help you, but they need to know the big picture. @cantflip @traintech55 are a couple good ones that have done this for a living.
But.. In reading your other threads, you have some drivability issues with the car that you are trying to address and it's all snowballing into where you aren't going to fix your problem or actually learn how to diagnose what the problem is.
You gotta start looking at the basics before you reach in and tweak that distributor advance until it pings...
First, download a FSM if you haven't already. MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals . Read through the ignition section and figure out what the factory settings are. You can't go wrong with how Chrysler said to do it. Later, you might be able to improve on it, but stick with the stock settings for now until you get the car running right.
Second, without touching anything... loosening anything etc. Check the timing. Since you bought the fancy timing light, check the dwell too. Are they correct? If not, then you correct them. Take the car for a test drive and see if it helped.
When you check and you find the initial timing is right, the dwell is right, then it's time to look elsewhere.
One important piece of info that I found in re-reading your other posts is this car has sat for a while. Bad gas may be playing a part in your problem.
Here's what I suggest... You need to start one thread... Not a bunch of threads.... on your drivability problems. Spell out every symptom and everything you've done to try to help it. You are getting some very good recommendations here... but they may not know that you are battling with just getting the car to run right. There's a lot of very good guys that will try to help you, but they need to know the big picture. @cantflip @traintech55 are a couple good ones that have done this for a living.
traintech55
Senior Member
Thanks Big John.
GG1, Big John is so correct on this. Not to put anyone down, but an automobile is an assembly of many thousand parts. Without a proper diagnosis you will end up spending a lot of money to fix something that is probably very simple.
Put as much information in your posting as you can, make year, model, factory ignition, or electronic, factory carb or aftermarket, exec. also pictures if possible.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Big John understands.
STOP! EVERYBODY STOP!!
You're throwing bits n pcs. at him helter skelter and f*****g him all up.
GG: Ignore EVERYTHING you have been advised already. Forget it.
Now.... Return that timing light. Get a Vacuum gauge kit and a basic timing light.
Google: How to tune your car using a vacuum guage.
It's very simple.
Everytime somebody has a technical problem that needs troubleshooting asked on here, everybody skips the troubleshooting and goes straight to this.
There's no answers so quick. Only questions.
STOP! EVERYBODY STOP!!
You're throwing bits n pcs. at him helter skelter and f*****g him all up.
GG: Ignore EVERYTHING you have been advised already. Forget it.
Now.... Return that timing light. Get a Vacuum gauge kit and a basic timing light.
Google: How to tune your car using a vacuum guage.
It's very simple.
Everytime somebody has a technical problem that needs troubleshooting asked on here, everybody skips the troubleshooting and goes straight to this.
There's no answers so quick. Only questions.
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70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Well depending on oil and dirt and if it has A/C there is a notch on the distributor and a notch on the block if you line these up it should start then you can vacuum time from there.
stubs300
Senior Member
And get yourself a FSM, that's a Factory Service Manual or a "Motor Repair" manual that has the spec you need and go from there! Geeez, $139 for a timing light? Some folks got mo money then sense!
Hello All,
Forgive the delay in responding to the new posts.. I have been reading them all! Very grateful to everyone who contributes. Yes, thanks Big John, commando1 and traintech55 for slowing things way down and offering sound advice for addressing/diagnosing the drivability issues.. logically.. from the beginning with the basics, one thing at a time.
As I've stated in my introduction to this forum, my intention has always been to do things right, from the book, and get everything to factory specifications, and then see what I've got. I would be happy to start a new thread to shed light on her service history as far as I know it.. plus all the work I myself have done so far to address issues, and to "lay out the big picture" as John has suggested so those who are interested can better help.
I'm not a mechanic, so of course I listen very closely to everything everyone says in response to my questions. This is the only car I own. I want to learn as much as I can about her, do as much of the work myself as possible, as I will be the one driving her. I don't need to pay a tech $125. per hour everytime I have an issue.. leaving loads of cash for an obsessive hobby in timing light collecting.
I have in fact ordered the mityvac gauge and yes, my "fancy timing light", in addition to quality oem nos points, nos condensers, feeler gauges, cam lube, nos distributor cap and quality oem plugs and wires. The vacuum advance was indeed toast so I ordered a good oem nos replacement. The lead distributor wire was cracked so I've also ordered a good nos replacement for that as well. I think just replacing & properly setting those things alone should tell me a lot. Also, I've been reading up on the ignition and vacuum systems, and the incredible amount of troubleshooting that can be performed with just a vacuum gauge.. timing included and its quite a bit. I still believe it's a simple solution that I shall soon discover through a process of elimination. I'm still suspicious of fuel delivery being at least part of the issue, despite the fact that I've replaced the fuel tank, lines, pump, filter, and professionally rebuilt the carburetor. More on that later in the new thread.
The big question now before I leave this thread is which forum here on FCBO should I post the new thread, to give some history on the car, and get some help addressing these major drivability issues by drawing forth a grand meeting of the minds.
Btw, I got this FSM new the same week I bought the car, two years ago.. hardly neglected!
Forgive the delay in responding to the new posts.. I have been reading them all! Very grateful to everyone who contributes. Yes, thanks Big John, commando1 and traintech55 for slowing things way down and offering sound advice for addressing/diagnosing the drivability issues.. logically.. from the beginning with the basics, one thing at a time.
As I've stated in my introduction to this forum, my intention has always been to do things right, from the book, and get everything to factory specifications, and then see what I've got. I would be happy to start a new thread to shed light on her service history as far as I know it.. plus all the work I myself have done so far to address issues, and to "lay out the big picture" as John has suggested so those who are interested can better help.
I'm not a mechanic, so of course I listen very closely to everything everyone says in response to my questions. This is the only car I own. I want to learn as much as I can about her, do as much of the work myself as possible, as I will be the one driving her. I don't need to pay a tech $125. per hour everytime I have an issue.. leaving loads of cash for an obsessive hobby in timing light collecting.
I have in fact ordered the mityvac gauge and yes, my "fancy timing light", in addition to quality oem nos points, nos condensers, feeler gauges, cam lube, nos distributor cap and quality oem plugs and wires. The vacuum advance was indeed toast so I ordered a good oem nos replacement. The lead distributor wire was cracked so I've also ordered a good nos replacement for that as well. I think just replacing & properly setting those things alone should tell me a lot. Also, I've been reading up on the ignition and vacuum systems, and the incredible amount of troubleshooting that can be performed with just a vacuum gauge.. timing included and its quite a bit. I still believe it's a simple solution that I shall soon discover through a process of elimination. I'm still suspicious of fuel delivery being at least part of the issue, despite the fact that I've replaced the fuel tank, lines, pump, filter, and professionally rebuilt the carburetor. More on that later in the new thread.
The big question now before I leave this thread is which forum here on FCBO should I post the new thread, to give some history on the car, and get some help addressing these major drivability issues by drawing forth a grand meeting of the minds.
Btw, I got this FSM new the same week I bought the car, two years ago.. hardly neglected!
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Hey GG-1, I've been trying to keep tabs on your car and what you're doing to her. Don't feel too bad about buying tools, even fancy ones... they will eventually pay for themselves in saved labor, as you seem to understand.
My one suggestion at this moment would be to stick with one thread for all of your issues. I know it seems like breaking things down to separate threads helps clear the issues... but when diagnosing a car, it is way better to sort through too much info than too little. The internet is really an awful way to diagnose and the issues easily get clouded by the "this worked for me" suggestions folks like to put out there.
You also may not realize that certain symptoms can be caused by things you thought were unrelated. We often start the newbies off with an engine needs proper air, fuel, compression and ignition to run... and then work our way through the possibilities of whats wrong, usually by diagnosis only... until we prove something needs attention.
That said, for driveability issues, tune up parts are often due for replacement when a car isn't running well... if you see something needs attention, it may not be your only problem, but at least it was needed for maintenance and helps eliminate it as an issue.
traintech55
Senior Member
GG1, no problem. Just a couple of things to add to this, some of us, myself included worked on these cars when they were brand new for a living. I don't know how many times I have had arguments with new "Tech's" over an older car. I have had to remind them that I was doing it before they were a gleam in their fathers eyes.
Personally I enjoy passing on the things I have learned over the years, and yes I have made many costly mistakes in my career. I try to keep others from doing that. Chrysler guys are a special breed, you will enjoy being here with us.
Bill
GG, I think you've got the attention of some of the guys that can help you through this... New thread or continue this one is up to you.
BTW, the "fancy" timing light is actually pretty cool and just a little
from someone that uses a timing light they bought at Sears back in the seventies. I may have to pry open my wallet for one like yours someday.
BTW, the "fancy" timing light is actually pretty cool and just a little
from someone that uses a timing light they bought at Sears back in the seventies. I may have to pry open my wallet for one like yours someday.
Hey! I just spotted the dial telephone!
traintech55
Senior Member
I really wish I could lay my hands on an old Sun engine analyzer.GG, I think you've got the attention of some of the guys that can help you through this... New thread or continue this one is up to you.
BTW, the "fancy" timing light is actually pretty cool and just a little
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