Suspension Rebuild - 68 Newport Convertible

[e.break]

Alright…I finally stopped snooping and joined the forum. I’m green to the classics and after some research on other threads and online, I’m looking to get some guidance on rebuilding the suspension on my 68 Newport Convertible.

I’m looking to take it back to stock performance to cruise around town, so not looking to go over the top with it, but also want to make sure I’m saving on future maintenance costs with reliable (and easier to find) parts.

I bought a front disc brake conversion kit from Summit and a rear kit from LEED’s that I’m planning to put in this weekend, and looking to do some suspension upgrades while I’m at it.

Front:
Saw some rebuild kits from Firm Feel and PST—saw that @mobileparts advised against the AR kit due to quality of parts, although the price is appealing. I saw a thicker front sway bar was another cost effective way to significantly improve handling, so looking to locate a good cost effective option there too. Also plan to get some basic gas shocks all around, but open to other suggestions and recommendations on any other parts I should prioritize replacing initially.

Rear:
Looked into Springs n Things, Firm Feel, Eaton Detroit Spring, and General Spring
as the more budget friendly option.

 

[mobileparts]

Since you were smart enough to alert me to answer you , here I am …..

If indeed you want the best quality of parts — indeed — I can supply you with ALL 16 components of the entire Front End —
No “ back orders “ that last months or years , awaiting the next boat with parts and egg rolls….

P.M. me , as per forum rules , when you are interested , and we can go over the prices and package deal price….

Yours, Craig…..

 

[MattfromMaine]

After looking for a front suspension kit for my '72 Newport at all of the vendors you listed and then giving Craig a call, I can tell you that working with him is the way to go. EXCELLENT quality and guidance as to what exactly you need and why.

Do it right the first time and get on the phone with @mobileparts. Just my 2 cents.....

 

[CBODY67]

If not already on your list, get the lower control arm bushing. This is an alignment-holding issue, as with age, the rubber "takes a set" and otherwise can deteriorate. You'll need the correct tool to remove the torsion bars with, though.

One of the cheapest and easiest ways to improve handling precision and response to steering input is to run the front tires at 32osi cold and the rear tires at 30psi cold. Easier than adding a larger front sway bar, all things considered, with good results.

If you read these forums on specific areas, you discover that going to Summit as a main parts source can be good and not-so-good. Good for their mainstream hot rod parts and such, but not-so-good for some of their brands of disc brake conversion kits. You'll get good results, but not the BEST results, by observation. So getting the best name-brand-sourced items from one single source CAN be good if you get the correct brands. Leeds might 'look good", but can be too-Asian in orientation and the "replacement parts" they supply in their kits. Aim for Wilwood, instead.

On the other hand, the factory brakes were plenty adequate for even a bit or HP driving, when the cars were new. Usually no problem to lock the wheels in stopping fast! Which means you learned the "analog anti-lock" method of brake pedal modulation! Modern cars have 4-whl disc brakes as they are lighter and easier to install on the assy line, more than performance-oriented. They weigh less too, as an assy. Easier to change pad formulations for better stopping with less pad area, too.

On the other hand, in the long term, supplies of drum brake parts will continue to decrease in the future. Just as the supply of the preferred OEM-based power front disc brake donor cars is finite and decreasing. Which can make an aftermarket supplier, as Wilwood, the BEST long-term choice. HAVE to look to the future and future parts availability!

Suspension? PST, Firm-Feel, and Espy can be good, reliable sources for your rebuild and such. Espy kind of seems like a "dark horse" source, but they have been around for decades, seemingly unknown, but offering good choices and good prices on suspension parts, OEM and upgrade.

Car looks good. Enjoy the journey of learning about it and Mopars in general.

CBODY67

 

[e.break]

After looking for a front suspension kit for my '72 Newport at all of the vendors you listed and then giving Craig a call, I can tell you that working with him is the way to go. EXCELLENT quality and guidance as to what exactly you need and why.

Do it right the first time and get on the phone with @mobileparts. Just my 2 cents.....

Appreciate the advice!

 

[e.break]

If not already on your list, get the lower control arm bushing. This is an alignment-holding issue, as with age, the rubber "takes a set" and otherwise can deteriorate. You'll need the correct tool to remove the torsion bars with, though.

One of the cheapest and easiest ways to improve handling precision and response to steering input is to run the front tires at 32osi cold and the rear tires at 30psi cold. Easier than adding a larger front sway bar, all things considered, with good results.

If you read these forums on specific areas, you discover that going to Summit as a main parts source can be good and not-so-good. Good for their mainstream hot rod parts and such, but not-so-good for some of their brands of disc brake conversion kits. You'll get good results, but not the BEST results, by observation. So getting the best name-brand-sourced items from one single source CAN be good if you get the correct brands. Leeds might 'look good", but can be too-Asian in orientation and the "replacement parts" they supply in their kits. Aim for Wilwood, instead.

On the other hand, the factory brakes were plenty adequate for even a bit or HP driving, when the cars were new. Usually no problem to lock the wheels in stopping fast! Which means you learned the "analog anti-lock" method of brake pedal modulation! Modern cars have 4-whl disc brakes as they are lighter and easier to install on the assy line, more than performance-oriented. They weigh less too, as an assy. Easier to change pad formulations for better stopping with less pad area, too.

On the other hand, in the long term, supplies of drum brake parts will continue to decrease in the future. Just as the supply of the preferred OEM-based power front disc brake donor cars is finite and decreasing. Which can make an aftermarket supplier, as Wilwood, the BEST long-term choice. HAVE to look to the future and future parts availability!

Suspension? PST, Firm-Feel, and Espy can be good, reliable sources for your rebuild and such. Espy kind of seems like a "dark horse" source, but they have been around for decades, seemingly unknown, but offering good choices and good prices on suspension parts, OEM and upgrade.

Car looks good. Enjoy the journey of learning about it and Mopars in general.

CBODY67

Solid tips, really appreciate it @cbody67— and yes, efficient long-term maintenance is EXACTLY what I’m aiming for!

That being said, I can live with “better results” from the Summit front kit, especially since it includes master cylinder and brake booster that needs to be replaced, but you would suggest not installing the Leeds rear kit to save fitment/part sourcing for the long run?

 

[CBODY67]

Personally, I had never heard of Leeds prior to seeing it in the Summit catalog. From what I saw, looks like generic aftermarket items. I also like more OEM-looking items than aftermarket, fwiw. So those "stepped" boosters look out of place and generic, to me. In looking at their website, I was not really impressed as to product things. Kind of like the eBay Motors guarantee of "everything fits your vehicle, with modifications".

Not to say that all of Leeds' products are "all bad", just that they are probably sourced from Asian regions and all that can mean, BTAIM. The Asian sources "build to the customer's desires" and probably "projected failure rate" specs, by observation. Which is another discussion!

The reasons I prefer Wilwood is their longevity in the business. I remember when they started with disc brakes for the front of drag cars in the earlier 1980s. A specialized market where excess weight is not desired. Their products worked well. With that heritage, they have expanded into the street rod market areas and later into the classic car arena. As a higher level of execution parts supplier, I trust they will be around in the future AND they can be dealt with personally, if needed. Unfortunately, I don't see that with Leeds. BTAIM

I suspect that Summit started to carry Leeds as a "value line" product. And all that might mean. Just like an auto supply jobber, if they start to have problems and warranty issues, a company will not be in their warehouses any more.

Best of luck, have fun, and enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[e.break]

Personally, I had never heard of Leeds prior to seeing it in the Summit catalog. From what I saw, looks like generic aftermarket items. I also like more OEM-looking items than aftermarket, fwiw. So those "stepped" boosters look out of place and generic, to me. In looking at their website, I was not really impressed as to product things. Kind of like the eBay Motors guarantee of "everything fits your vehicle, with modifications".

Not to say that all of Leeds' products are "all bad", just that they are probably sourced from Asian regions and all that can mean, BTAIM. The Asian sources "build to the customer's desires" and probably "projected failure rate" specs, by observation. Which is another discussion!

The reasons I prefer Wilwood is their longevity in the business. I remember when they started with disc brakes for the front of drag cars in the earlier 1980s. A specialized market where excess weight is not desired. Their products worked well. With that heritage, they have expanded into the street rod market areas and later into the classic car arena. As a higher level of execution parts supplier, I trust they will be around in the future AND they can be dealt with personally, if needed. Unfortunately, I don't see that with Leeds. BTAIM

I suspect that Summit started to carry Leeds as a "value line" product. And all that might mean. Just like an auto supply jobber, if they start to have problems and warranty issues, a company will not be in their warehouses any more.

Best of luck, have fun, and enjoy!
CBODY67

That makes sense, the insight is always appreciated.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Solid tips, really appreciate it @cbody67— and yes, efficient long-term maintenance is EXACTLY what I’m aiming for!

That being said, I can live with “better results” from the Summit front kit, especially since it includes master cylinder and brake booster that needs to be replaced, but you would suggest not installing the Leeds rear kit to save fitment/part sourcing for the long run?

I just finished rebuilding the front suspension on our '68 ragtop Newport early this June, with perfect results and an easy time of it. I created my own "kit" by carefully shopping for NOS parts where applicable, which proved to be almost all of it excepting the lower control arm bushings and one lower ball joint, all of which I obtained from Rare Parts. As Cbody67 wisely pointed out, the most decisive single part you must replace will be the lower control arm bushing. I advise you to get something recently made, as butyl rubber ages, oxidizing slowly but inexorably over time. I used Moog high eccentricity upper control arm bushings, which I report stood me in very good stead, as these resulted in my having excellent camber and caster, which, after setting the toe-in properly, has given me the best handing I've had from the 3 C-body Chrysler's I've owned, a '66 New Yorker, a '55 Newport, and the current '68 Newport convertible. I also recommend using new rubber for the swaybar, all around. Follow the directions in the Field Service Manual carefully, using good tools, and you will get good results.

I had replaced the rear suspension from components obtained from Springs n Things. If one must purchase a "kit" then these folks would be one of three most reputable, quality providers I can recommend based on my own experience. I instructed them to supply me with new rear leaf springs arched to 2 inches over the stock ride height. They did, and these I transferred from our tragically wrecked 1966 Newport to the '68 sans difficulty. I'd obtained shackles, bushings and such for the new installation all the same, as metal stretches when torqued, and subjected to other forces. Gertrude rides very nicely front and back, even on the cratered barrio asphalt trails surrounding our domicile.

I obtained all our new brake parts from clever shopping on eBay, obtaining NOS asbestos front brake shoes, NOS metallo-graphite rear ones, sundry wheel cylinders, and all the nails, springs, adjusting screws and levers this car might conceivably need until it's centennial. All that small stuff was NOS Mopar, or NAPA, excepting the wheel cylinder rubbers. I admit to using a Bendix clone master cylinder, probably made in Taiwan, which has served well now for 5 years without failure. That too came from a reference on eBay. I got rid of the brake booster*, as neither my wife or I like them. Manual brakes serve us very well.

If you use your eyes and brain, you can get every part you need to overhaul your entire suspension system for far less than most of these big name shops will charge you for their kits. DON'T rely on "AIs" or salesmen.

Best of luck with putting it together, then, putting it together!

*OK, the booster is holding down cardboard in our storage locker, but it will never be installed on anything I drive.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Personally, I had never heard of Leeds prior to seeing it in the Summit catalog. From what I saw, looks like generic aftermarket items. I also like more OEM-looking items than aftermarket, fwiw. So those "stepped" boosters look out of place and generic, to me. In looking at their website, I was not really impressed as to product things. Kind of like the eBay Motors guarantee of "everything fits your vehicle, with modifications".

Not to say that all of Leeds' products are "all bad", just that they are probably sourced from Asian regions and all that can mean, BTAIM. The Asian sources "build to the customer's desires" and probably "projected failure rate" specs, by observation. Which is another discussion!

The reasons I prefer Wilwood is their longevity in the business. I remember when they started with disc brakes for the front of drag cars in the earlier 1980s. A specialized market where excess weight is not desired. Their products worked well. With that heritage, they have expanded into the street rod market areas and later into the classic car arena. As a higher level of execution parts supplier, I trust they will be around in the future AND they can be dealt with personally, if needed. Unfortunately, I don't see that with Leeds. BTAIM

I suspect that Summit started to carry Leeds as a "value line" product. And all that might mean. Just like an auto supply jobber, if they start to have problems and warranty issues, a company will not be in their warehouses any more.

Best of luck, have fun, and enjoy!
CBODY67

If I were to install a disc brake system on Gertrude, Wilwood is the only vendor with any serious reputation I would trust. I've only seen this "Leeds" label for a month or so, and I share your speculations regarding what they vend, and for who. The Chinese have become quite adept at using anglophone names to cover their actual corporate orgs. PLENTY of their industry remains owned by the PLA, and will, as that's their tradition, dating back to Master Kung.

 

[e.break]

I just finished rebuilding the front suspension on our '68 ragtop Newport early this June, with perfect results and an easy time of it. I created my own "kit" by carefully shopping for NOS parts where applicable, which proved to be almost all of it excepting the lower control arm bushings and one lower ball joint, all of which I obtained from Rare Parts. As Cbody67 wisely pointed out, the most decisive single part you must replace will be the lower control arm bushing. I advise you to get something recently made, as butyl rubber ages, oxidizing slowly but inexorably over time. I used Moog high eccentricity upper control arm bushings, which I report stood me in very good stead, as these resulted in my having excellent camber and caster, which, after setting the toe-in properly, has given me the best handing I've had from the 3 C-body Chrysler's I've owned, a '66 New Yorker, a '55 Newport, and the current '68 Newport convertible. I also recommend using new rubber for the swaybar, all around. Follow the directions in the Field Service Manual carefully, using good tools, and you will get good results.

I had replaced the rear suspension from components obtained from Springs n Things. If one must purchase a "kit" then these folks would be one of three most reputable, quality providers I can recommend based on my own experience. I instructed them to supply me with new rear leaf springs arched to 2 inches over the stock ride height. They did, and these I transferred from our tragically wrecked 1966 Newport to the '68 sans difficulty. I'd obtained shackles, bushings and such for the new installation all the same, as metal stretches when torqued, and subjected to other forces. Gertrude rides very nicely front and back, even on the cratered barrio asphalt trails surrounding our domicile.

I obtained all our new brake parts from clever shopping on eBay, obtaining NOS asbestos front brake shoes, NOS metallo-graphite rear ones, sundry wheel cylinders, and all the nails, springs, adjusting screws and levers this car might conceivably need until it's centennial. All that small stuff was NOS Mopar, or NAPA, excepting the wheel cylinder rubbers. I admit to using a Bendix clone master cylinder, probably made in Taiwan, which has served well now for 5 years without failure. That too came from a reference on eBay. I got rid of the brake booster*, as neither my wife or I like them. Manual brakes serve us very well.

If you use your eyes and brain, you can get every part you need to overhaul your entire suspension system for far less than most of these big name shops will charge you for their kits. DON'T rely on "AIs" or salesmen.

Best of luck with putting it together, then, putting it together!

*OK, the booster is holding down cardboard in our storage locker, but it will never be installed on anything I drive.

MOOG is another brand I keep hearing, so adding that to the chamber, thanks.

I looked at grabbing a “kit” (and I imagine other novices like myself or folks looking to save some time) to make sure I’m not missing out on anything, but open to conducting more research, meticulously sourcing quality and build my own “kit” to save some coins, so I’m game. I’ve subscribed to some parts groups, several YouTube channels and the like, but any tips on the “how” to go about better part sourcing, “what” to look for and the science behind it is appreciated

 

[Gerald Morris]

MOOG is another brand I keep hearing, so adding that to the chamber, thanks.

I looked at grabbing a “kit” (and I imagine other novices like myself or folks looking to save some time) to make sure I’m not missing out on anything, but open to conducting more research, meticulously sourcing quality and build my own “kit” to save some coins, so I’m game. I’ve subscribed to some parts groups, several YouTube channels and the like, but any tips on the “how” to go about better part sourcing, “what” to look for and the science behind it is appreciated

Start by setting up eBay searches, looking for the part, or parts you seek. Include the all important "NOS" in stuff with steel in it, like ball joints, steering links, brake shoes, possibly drums (IFF you plan to retain them.) and brake cylinders. Even if you score NOS wheel cylinders, you may/or may not want to invest in some new rubbers, even though the "N" in your NOS searches means putatively "NEW."

Rock Auto can help with bushings. Moog has STOPPED producing stuff like swaybar bushings, strut rod bushings, and I think even control arm bushings, BUT, IFF you can score stuff that isn't too old, it's still a good brand.

I use Mevotech rubber for my swaybar stuff, and it looks like their lower control arm bushings now also are made with good U.S. rubber. That damned cast "butyl rubber" is VERY important stuff! Be sure you get something of excellent quality. Mevotech did good recently with their swaybar stuff, so I'll try them for the control arm bushings next, but, be warned, they're another damned international corporation, and some of their stuff is made in south and east asia. I simply don't trust that stuff. TRW and McQuay-Norris are two older brands I stocked, and used most recently. It appeared to be good, and was doubly wrapped, presumably to minimize outgassing and to protect against OZONE! NEVER STORE ANY RUBBER GOODS IN PROXIMITY TO RUNNING ELECTRIC MOTORS OR OTHER SOURCES OF ELECTRICAL ARCS!!!! Arcs produce ozone, and ozone destroys rubber.

Once you've trained your search engines a bit to find what YOU want, you can make your kit!

You can overhaul your suspension in two primary stages: front and back. When you do, you must replace everything in each of those systems at the once. You can't overhaul just one side at a time for any significant driving, though if need arises, a weekend probably will be alright for one side or the other. Be sure to include shock absorbers in your suspension lists, and the rubber bumpers, especially the front ones, when you set to work.

For the front, ONE THING BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE! BE DAMNED SURE NO HYDRAULIC OILS ARE LEAKING ONTO ANY PART OF YOUR SUSPENSION!!! Power steering fluid, especially from a leaky steering gear box, will destroy your lower control arm bushing with heart (and back) breaking speed if this detail is neglected. Brake fluid runs a close second for rubber dissolution, and transmission fluid will do it too, if not so quickly.

So, NO LEAKS CAN BE PERMITTED WHEN OVERHAULING THE FRONT SUSPENSION, and its better for a host of other reasons to repair such problems BEFORE beginning. You might include new power steering machinery if any of the old stuff leaks now. If this doesn't suit you, repair what you have.

If nobody has yet mentioned Dr. Diff to you yet, then check them out here now too. While they also, sadly, neglect C body material, for brakes, and of course, the rear end, they're unbeatable.

Commence your search!

 

[e.break]

Start by setting up eBay searches, looking for the part, or parts you seek. Include the all important "NOS" in stuff with steel in it, like ball joints, steering links, brake shoes, possibly drums (IFF you plan to retain them.) and brake cylinders. Even if you score NOS wheel cylinders, you may/or may not want to invest in some new rubbers, even though the "N" in your NOS searches means putatively "NEW."

Rock Auto can help with bushings. Moog has STOPPED producing stuff like swaybar bushings, strut rod bushings, and I think even control arm bushings, BUT, IFF you can score stuff that isn't too old, it's still a good brand.

I use Mevotech rubber for my swaybar stuff, and it looks like their lower control arm bushings now also are made with good U.S. rubber. That damned cast "butyl rubber" is VERY important stuff! Be sure you get something of excellent quality. Mevotech did good recently with their swaybar stuff, so I'll try them for the control arm bushings next, but, be warned, they're another damned international corporation, and some of their stuff is made in south and east asia. I simply don't trust that stuff. TRW and McQuay-Norris are two older brands I stocked, and used most recently. It appeared to be good, and was doubly wrapped, presumably to minimize outgassing and to protect against OZONE! NEVER STORE ANY RUBBER GOODS IN PROXIMITY TO RUNNING ELECTRIC MOTORS OR OTHER SOURCES OF ELECTRICAL ARCS!!!! Arcs produce ozone, and ozone destroys rubber.

Once you've trained your search engines a bit to find what YOU want, you can make your kit!

You can overhaul your suspension in two primary stages: front and back. When you do, you must replace everything in each of those systems at the once. You can't overhaul just one side at a time for any significant driving, though if need arises, a weekend probably will be alright for one side or the other. Be sure to include shock absorbers in your suspension lists, and the rubber bumpers, especially the front ones, when you set to work.

For the front, ONE THING BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE! BE DAMNED SURE NO HYDRAULIC OILS ARE LEAKING ONTO ANY PART OF YOUR SUSPENSION!!! Power steering fluid, especially from a leaky steering gear box, will destroy your lower control arm bushing with heart (and back) breaking speed if this detail is neglected. Brake fluid runs a close second for rubber dissolution, and transmission fluid will do it too, if not so quickly.

So, NO LEAKS CAN BE PERMITTED WHEN OVERHAULING THE FRONT SUSPENSION, and its better for a host of other reasons to repair such problems BEFORE beginning. You might include new power steering machinery if any of the old stuff leaks now. If this doesn't suit you, repair what you have.

If nobody has yet mentioned Dr. Diff to you yet, then check them out here now too. While they also, sadly, neglect C body material, for brakes, and of course, the rear end, they're unbeatable.

Commence your search!

Really great info, thank you. Got my searches setup and will be on the prowl.

It has a recent aftermarket power steering setup when I bought it, so no leaks there, but the valve cover gaskets are leaking. I did a stock replacement last weekend, but it has offys with 4 bolts rather than the factory 6, so I’ve also been looking for a good gasket set to match

 

[Gerald Morris]

Really great info, thank you. Got my searches setup and will be on the prowl.

It has a recent aftermarket power steering setup when I bought it, so no leaks there, but the valve cover gaskets are leaking. I did a stock replacement last weekend, but it has offys with 4 bolts rather than the factory 6, so I’ve also been looking for a good gasket set to match

Use The Right Stuff, a black RTV by Permatex I think, which sets in only 90 minutes. Apply a nice little bead to your gaskets, or scrubbed bare metal, and once it sets, you won't have a leak. it might also help to use some "spreaders" for the valve cover bolts, if they exist for the "Offys."

 

[wyrmrider]

Disc brakes from around a 73 Ne3w yorker are a bolt in
get a rear sway from a Cordoba
get some torsion bars from a late SW or PC you will notneed the sway bar
wider wheels even PC15 " wheels which you will need for discbrakees
do the torsion bars before the rear sway
add a leaf to the rear with plastic interliners