Thoughts on Aluminum Wheels

[fury fan]

I don't, well, I didn't, so I did some digging.
From scanning the results, there are some webforum discussions that might be worth reading. I read the BinderPlanet one, it shows a more economical approach.
The main concern is to not drive the expanded swaged material thru the hub, thereby enlarging the hole and reducing the grip of the knurl on the new stud.
Perhaps you can surgically remove it with a die grinder or some other method?

If your RH studs are in good condition, no real need to change them?



automotive wheel stud swage cutter tool - Google Search

 

[fury fan]

As the BinderPlanet guy used a 3/4" holesaw and noted that it was a slightly sloppy fit, you could look at these:
McMaster-Carr
These are a little thicker and might be a better fit (or they might not fit over the stud, I dunno)

But you'd need an adapter to put in your machine, and these things aren't cheap either.

And - are you planning on pulling your axle shaft to put it into a drillpress? If so, 'tis a great time to grease your axle bearing. Actually, if the maintenance history is unknown, would be a good idea to grease both of them. (I just finished going thru that)

 

[nama7]

As the BinderPlanet guy used a 3/4" holesaw and noted that it was a slightly sloppy fit, you could look at these:
McMaster-Carr
These are a little thicker and might be a better fit (or they might not fit over the stud, I dunno)

But you'd need an adapter to put in your machine, and these things aren't cheap either.

And - are you planning on pulling your axle shaft to put it into a drillpress? If so, 'tis a great time to grease your axle bearing. Actually, if the maintenance history is unknown, would be a good idea to grease both of them. (I just finished going thru that)

I will give this some more thought when I get back home. It sounds as if the extra material is on the wheel side of the axle. I wonder if you could hammer the stud some and then draw it back into place, then remove the material with maybe a chisel? JUST A THOUGHT. Thanks

 

[fury fan]

You'll find out!
I've never done one, so I don't know.

 

[nama7]

You'll find out!
I've never done one, so I don't know.

Speaking of "finding out". Only the front hubs are swedged on my 65. The rear studs came out without any problem. I used a little heat and a hammer.
I was looking for a cutter and found this post on another forum. I might try this.
"if you ever have to do it again just flip them baby's over and drill the head off from the back. then just knock them out forwards. it won't hurt the hubs at all and is a lot easier than beating the heck out of it and maybe bending it or enlarging the holes.
I do know that if sometime in the past yours had been replaced they probably were NOT re-swedged then you could beat the heck out of them and out they'd come. since you already might have enlarged stud holes."

 

[fury fan]

That's a great tip right there! Assuming the studs aren't grade 5 or 8 equivalent, though. Might need a carbide drillbit(s).
Thanks also for sharing that the rears came out easier, I have to do the LR on my white 68, it's the oddball on the car.
Did you use propane or MAPP heat, or was acetylene required?

 

[nama7]

That's a great tip right there! Assuming the studs aren't grade 5 or 8 equivalent, though. Might need a carbide drillbit(s).
Thanks also for sharing that the rears came out easier, I have to do the LR on my white 68, it's the oddball on the car.
Did you use propane or MAPP heat, or was acetylene required?

I just used regular propane.

Heat may not be needed, but since I had some I thought it to be a good idea.

 

[Just Carbs]

Drilling the heads off the hub side is difficult because it's not easy to hit the exact center. And you have to go to deep to get the head off. And damage the hub.
Cutting the studs off the drum side and driving them out the hub side poses the same problem. You still need hit the exact center to drill the swedge out. And risk damage to the drum.
I grind the head off flat. Then they drive out the drum side with no damage to the hub or drum.

 

[nama7]

I decided to put 235/75/15s all around. The left rear now has RH Thread studs I pulled the left front hub a few minutes ago. Now to see how I want to change those studs. I also got dual exhaust installed last week. Anybody know where I can get the chrome trim for the left rear light?

 

[fury fan]

Check your passenger-side inner taillight and see if the lettering is at the bottom of the lens, or at the top and upside down.
It looks a little crooked in that pic, somebody might've installed something incorrectly.

 

[Just Carbs]

The 237/75/15 makes since to me. That's what I put on the 64 New Yorker.
Are your wheels hub centric? Do they balance well?
My opinion on removing the studs is to grind the heads off from the hub side and push them out. So as not to have to deep drill the drum to remove the swedge. Even if you use a swedge remover tool on the drum side, you still have to remove a lot of drum material. And any swedge left must pass through the hub that's made of unobtanium. It's not just the visible part of the swedge that must go. There's a lot of expanded lug hidden under the part that you can see.

 

[nama7]

The 237/75/15 makes since to me. That's what I put on the 64 New Yorker.
Are your wheels hub centric? Do they balance well?
My opinion on removing the studs is to grind the heads off from the hub side and push them out. So as not to have to deep drill the drum to remove the swedge. Even if you use a swedge remover tool on the drum side, you still have to remove a lot of drum material. And any swedge left must pass through the hub that's made of unobtanium. It's not just the visible part of the swedge that must go. There's a lot of expanded lug hidden under the part that you can see.

I am definitely leaning towards removing the heads of the studs. I won't know anything about how well they are balanced until I get it on the road. Hopefully in a week or two. I should get my title tomorrow and then get insurance. I have to wait until July, my birth month, before I get my tag.

 

[nama7]

So far I have done what I could to make an easy job hard. I tried to grid the heads off, but not enough room to get my side grinder to get them done. I cut the studs even with the drum and even drilled through the studs. I finally found a video where a guy used an 11/16" Hole Saw. I decided to spend the money and get one. A major investment of $11.32 did the trick. Very happy I did. The one I got,

Lenox Tools - 1772425 LENOX Tools Bi-Metal Speed Slot Arbored Hole Saw has a drill bit in it.​

 

[Just Carbs]

Who had it in stock?

 

[nama7]

Who had it in stock?

Amazon

 

[Just Carbs]

Same here. No one in town had it. It removed more of the drum than I liked. I had to trim the inside of the teeth.

 

[nama7]

Same here. No one in town had it. It removed more of the drum than I liked. I had to trim the inside of the teeth.

Maybe go with a 5/8" rather than 11/16"?

 

[Just Carbs]

Thats what I thought to. But no, to small. I had to trim the 11/16 teeth inside to get it over the threads.
I did get the fancy swedge tool. But it ate up to much of the drum. And was working on cutting into the hub also before it got the lug to slid without excess force.
What you did is as good as it's going to get for working from the drum side.