Tilt / telescopic column with rimblow wheel

[Racingsnake]

The steering column in my 1970 New Yorker won't stay locked at the desired length. I assume the black lever on the steering column is supposed to lock it in place but it doesn't seem to make any difference what position it is in. Does anyone have any info on how they are supposed to work and any ideas for the problem with mine?

Thanks

 

[saforwardlook]

Your vehicle looks like it has plenty of miles on it based on the condition of the interior or maybe significant sun exposure over time. Those columns were filled with plenty of plastic parts that don't do well in such environments. You might want to check with this column rebuilding company in Northern California, not too far from you, and have them rebuild yours or at least give you some clue to what the problem could be. When I am dealing with an old, sun baked steering column, I just send mine up to them as explained in one of my previous threads. Let us know what they tell you if you decide to check with them.

Help!!!! Column Assembly for a father son project.

I acquired a 1977 Newport as a project car for my 16 year old middle son and me. The column was a disassembled by the previous owner because of a stock ignition cylinder and I am not sure if I have all the correct parts or exactly how it goes back on. Any feedback would be helpful. We replaced...

www.forcbodiesonly.com

Steve

 

[Racingsnake]

It shows about 75k miles on the odometer which I think may well be accurate as it was parked up for a long time. It has been baking in the So Cal sun though. The prices didn’t look too bad from the rebuild place but I really don’t want to have the car sitting with no steering for a couple of weeks so I’m going to investigate it further myself to start with.

 

[CBODY67]

The "lock" on the telescoping function should have some friction items which to the locking when the lever to do that is actuated. At one time, those things were probably available from Chrysler and probably from GM (as it probably is a Saginaw column).

Considering the complexity of those columns, you could well end up with the car being down "weeks" if you tried to do it yourself without the special tools and such. Just a thought.

What condition is the rim blow switch in? Something else to be concerned with.

The similar Dodge and Plymouth columns did not telescope, but had the rim blow wheel. I have one of them in my '70 Monaco Brougham DH43. Rim blow switch is rock hard and would self-actuate when the temperature would get past 80 degrees F, so the horn relay was unplugged.

When I bought the car in 1975, the horn did not work. Investigation revealed a horn relay that was oil-fried under its cover. A new switch made me aware of the ills of such steering wheels!

CBODY67

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

The lock is actually done by a long metal rod that is pressed down by the centre bolt with the big wide head that the lever is bolted to.

The bolt presses down on the rod beneath it, which in turn presses on shoes that push outward against the part of the column that telescopes, locking it in place.

The rod can easily come out if the column is upended or the rod sticks to the bolt and is withdrawn from the column when the bolt is removed, and then not returned. No rod, no locking action.

 

[Racingsnake]

Haven’t tried the rimblow switch but I doubt it works. I’d rather have a basic non-tilt, non-tele column with a regular steering wheel but it sounds like the wiring needs to be changed to do that. A locksmith did some work on the column so they may have lost the lock rod - unfortunately I can't remember if it worked before they had the column.

 

[Samplingman]

No wiring changes needed to swap out to a regular column, it’s plug and play with the factory harness. Replace the rag joint and you are good to go. Finding a decent un-cracked wheel is the tricky part, but I agree, so much better than a non-functioning horn and column.

 

[Racingsnake]

Really? What columns will interchange?

 

[Samplingman]

Really? What columns will interchange?

Any 1970 - ‘71 c body, although not sure about Fury. I’ve compared the columns for ‘72-73, and although physically they work the wiring is a bit different.

 

[Racingsnake]

The rod was missing. Cut a new one from a length of steel I had lying around and it locks up properly now.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Lol! Good to hear.

How did you figure out how long to make it?

Keep in mind that it's also tool steel I believe, so it doesn't rust as easily, and won't mushroom/bend as easily. If it distorts it coud be a drag getting it out.

 

[Racingsnake]

I put a screwdriver down into the column and marked how far in it went then took off the length of the lock bolt. Good point about the tool steel, I might cut down a transfer punch and use that instead.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Schmart!

 

[Moparx]

those locking levers can also be adjusted somewhat by removing the three screws shown, and moving them over a hole or two on the round piece below them that presses on the locking rod. i have had many of those columns apart, and i actually built a tilt/telescope column with a removable steering wheel, using the tilt knuckle and telescoping part, for my 1933 dodge "humpback" hotrod project.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

How does that perform an "adjustment"? I'm intrigued.

 

[Moparx]

as the lever only has a limited amount of travel on the wheel you are using, if it won't stay tight enough in the locked position, you just screw the bottom "wheel" in a touch, then re-attach the lever with the three screws shown in three other holes that align with the adjuster slot in the steering wheel. there are 6, threaded holes in the wheel below on some columns, and on others, there are slots on the adjuster lever "hat" [as shown in the lead in picture], that can be realigned with the holes in the lower wheel after it is slightly tightened. the slots will be in a different position then, allowing you to position the locking lever at the unlock position, and still move it to "lock", with more clamping force on the locking rod, keeping the wheel where you need it to be, while still allowing the rod to be loose enough the spring under the outer can on the upper column [under the steering wheel, usually stainless, although i have come upon painted ones before] easily helps the steering wheel extend to the desired height. i know this sounds more complicated than it actually is, but if one tears into a tilt/telescope column, it quickly becomes apparent how these things work.