I know from our private conversation you have completed the job, but for public purposes, yes.
Time to replace shocks - recommend?
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live4theking
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Yes, we got it done. As @Ripinator says they are a pain. The passenger side went in fairly easily. The driver side was nearly a nightmare. I'll never understand why they don't come compressed.
TxDon
Well-Known Member
I just bought a full set of KYB's - the fronts were fully extended but the rears were compressed with a big plastic strap. It does seem it should be the other way around.
live4theking
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I couldn't agree more. I took a large zip tie (about 24") connected it to the top of the shock above the nub that stops the washer with 2 smaller wire ties (about 6"). They have to be compressed all the way in. You'll need another set of hands to get the wire ties on. I couldn't get my mind around how the guy used a ratchet strap.
I put KYB gas adjust on the front a couple of weeks ago. I replaced my “Roadsensing” shocks which were not that old, but one was starting to seep. What a difference I think the old ones were too weak. I wouldn’t get more than one bounce, but the whole front end would wallow over a bump. Way better handling and still smooth. I used a36” wood clamp to compress it and then used tie straps to hold it. I had the front end jacked up so the tires were hanging. Had to wiggle them around a bit, but got them in without taking anything apart. (68 Polara)
live4theking
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Pipe clamps (wood clamps) someone suggested that to me the other day when I was telling them the ordeal, but I forgot it that quickly. Shame on me.
I just installed KYB's on last month. The ride does stiffen a little w/ them. For ease of front shock installation remove the tire and wheel. Support the lower control arm w/ a floor jack and remove the bolt securing the brake line to the body. Separate the upper ball joint and lower the lower control arm / steering knuckle assemb. That should allow for more clearance for removal.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
The EASY WAY is as follows:
1.) Buy a spool of rebar wire, or use some #12 AWG solid copper if you have scraps of it around, as I always do. I used rebar wire this time though. Prepare two lengths about 48" ea., then fold them over in half, doubling them.
2.) Unpack your new front shocks, taking care to keep them at maximum compression. IF, for some reason you let them extend, then bear down on them, driving them back to max compression, their shortest length. Slip the lower washer and bushing onto the shaft and seat them all the way down where they're supposed to go.
3.) While at max compression, wrap the middle of your doubled over wires around the top of the shaft above the lower bushing. Twist them over a couple times so that they firmly grip the shaft above the bushing. You'll want to remove this after you get the shock into position, so don't go wild twistin the night away.
4.) NOW, thread each end of the wire through the bottom bushing from opposite sides, and twist them 2 or 3 times again. This will keep the shock at max compression when you position it into the shock tower.
5. Place the new shock in the tower. Once you get the shaft aimed up though the top, you can cut the rebar wires from below and allow the shock to extend. With a good pair of lineman's pliers, you should be able to pull the wire loose up top, then secure the shock in place, sliding the upper half of the bushing, then the washer and finally thread on the retaining nut.
6.) You should be able to use a big Phillips screwdriver, a punch or something to help you position the lower bushing where you then can slide the bolt through. At this point, you should have no remaining pieces of your tie wire on the shock or in the tower. Be sure this is the case. Torque your nuts and bolts to spec and drive that Mopar!
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
You describe a good procedure, but I just tie down the shock with some decent tie wire while its still in the car at its shortest length, then let the LCA drop after loosening the top nut. I have very little trouble removing them this way. I use tie wire again when installing new ones, as posted nearby.//
TxDon
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the tips on securing the front shocks to install. Did anyone take any photos of the process?
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
Just get under there and do it!
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
I suppose I'd be willin' to video and still capture my method if some soul wants to buy me a brand new set of front shocks for the trouble. Mind you, I'm damned pleased with my KYB Gas-A-Justs, so you might need to get me something pretty fancy to star in such a flick.
TxDon
Well-Known Member
OK. after way too many delays I am starting all the work on my wagon and due to all the fun posts about the difficulties of installing KYB front shocks that will be the first part of my project. I pulled them out of the boxes to measure for the compression zip ties and tried to compress them - They don't move at all! I had no trouble doing that with the Monroes I put in before but I gave these everything I had and - nothing. Are they really that stiff? So how did you compress them and hold them long enough to attach the ties? Someone mentioned pipe clamps or wood clamps, can you be more specific? TIA
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
I used bailing wire! Or even solid #12 copper will do in a pinch. You might want to bear down on them pretty hard to compress them to length, but I don't recall mine being THAT difficult. Of course, I'm a wire jerk from WAAAAY back, so....
TxDon
Well-Known Member
I'm about to turn 73 in a couple of days and I know I'm not as strong as I used to be but these are not compressing no matter how hard I bear down! Looking for some mechanical advantage methods.
TxDon
Well-Known Member
Exactly what I am trying to do.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
I feel for you! Mind you, I'm donna roll the Big Six Oh at my next Nativity, but as a LONG SUFFERING junky and engineer, I can relate to your predicament well. (Most of my former associates were of your generation or older....) Anyway, screw the zip ties. They break after you go through the AGONY of compressing those damned shocks.
Here's The Morris Method:
Find a large screwdriver with a good handle. Doesn't matter what tip it has, you want shaft and handle.
Get a couple feet of rebar or bailing wire. Place the BOTTOM washer and bushing on the shaft and press them to their spot. Now, twist one end of your bailing wire around the shaft, over the bushing in a loop around the shaft, leaving ample length on both sides of the loop to reach the bottom eyelet of the shock, plus a good 6 or 8 inches. I like to double the wire to make sure it doesn't break. Stuff's cheaper than plastic zips too, Use it freely.
Put your screwdriver through the lower eyelet. Find some brick, or wood block with a hole in it large enough for the top shaft but small enough to stop the bushing you wired down. Grasp the handle one one side of the eyelet, and the shaft on the other, and USE YOUR WEIGHT TO PUSH THAT DAMNED SHOCK DOWN TO MINIMUM LENGTH! See, BRAIN, NOT MUSCLE!
Here's the tricky bit.
Now, thread each end of the wire through the eyelet from opposite sides, then twist them together. NOW you've confined the shock at its minimum length, maximum compression! You're ready to put it in your front end.
Put the shock up the tower, and get the shaft started into the top hole it goes into. Make sure your eyelet is at least close to where you want it in the lower control arm. Go ahead and put the top bushing on now, and the washer, and LOOSELY START THE NUT OVER THE END. You'll want room.
With the eyelet aligned to where it will go, now CUT THE WIRE. I recommend using good side-cutters with a sharp end, so you can nip the wires apart. You might do this one wire at a time if you doubled it.
God-willing, I'll make a video of this procedure for you and other Moparians in another month or 2, when I replace the front shocks on Gertrude. I MUST FINISH THIS COOLING JACKET CLEANOUT AND HEAD GASKET REPLACEMENT FIRST though.
Let me know how you make out with this. It's really easier than it reads. Rebar wire goes for $4-6 a roll too. Forget the worthless zip ties for this.
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TxDon
Well-Known Member
After many failed attempts to compress and tie the front KYB shocks for installation, I wimped and finally outsourced the job. I found a local guy with 25 years experience at his own shop who had sold it and downsized to a small shop working ONLY on older cars. Took it in today and it was done in a couple of hours with no drama and a reasonable price. It turned out that one of the Monroes I had installed when I first got the car was completely blown out and the upper bushing on the other one had self destructed, no wonder it was bottoming out! Went the long way home over some poor roads and the difference is amazing. I may still fiddle with the back shocks later but the brake job will come next.
I did ask this guy how he compressed the shocks. He said he tried to do it manually without success and finally took it back to his old shop and used the hydraulic press! Money well spent.
I did ask this guy how he compressed the shocks. He said he tried to do it manually without success and finally took it back to his old shop and used the hydraulic press! Money well spent.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
I NOW own a 20 ton hydraulic press, but when I installed my KYBs I didn't. It takes a little practice using the method I described, which I likely shan't use again, having the press. STILL, its a good method to know, if you bust a shock on the Road out in Shitzplattsburg, Bumfukt Co, west Tx. I've not made that I-20 run in nigh on 19 yrs, but I'm sure of ONE thing: it won't be any prettier or easier.
Yes, you did best to hire a shop in your case. Only so much self-torture can be stood when working over these old cars. DON'T let them WORK YOU OVER!
Happy Moparing Don!
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