Timing '65 Imperial 413

[Davea Lux]

Ok Dave voltage at coil ignition on is 8.21 volts, and on starting found the problem, first video the ground fell off before it cranked, notice no 12 volts, 2nd video it will show 16volt but too late.

This is going to be a wiring fault, trick will be to find it. I would run a continuity test on the ignition switch first. Also check the ground for the coil, if the coil is not bolted down firmly, it will not funcdtion, that is why they usually have two bolts to the intake manifold. Can't tell where you coil is mounted, if it is mounted to the fender well, that will need a ground strap from the block to the coil mount.

Dave

 

[volksnut]

This is going to be a wiring fault, trick will be to find it. I would run a continuity test on the ignition switch first. Also check the ground for the coil, if the coil is not bolted down firmly, it will not funcdtion, that is why they usually have two bolts to the intake manifold. Can't tell where you coil is mounted, if it is mounted to the fender well, that will need a ground strap from the block to the coil mount.

Dave

Dave you can see the coil mounted to the bracket on intake near #8 cylinder

 

[volksnut]

This is going to be a wiring fault, trick will be to find it. I would run a continuity test on the ignition switch first. Also check the ground for the coil, if the coil is not bolted down firmly, it will not funcdtion, that is why they usually have two bolts to the intake manifold. Can't tell where you coil is mounted, if it is mounted to the fender well, that will need a ground strap from the block to the coil mount.

Dave

I have found the pink wire from the ignition switch to the relay to the starter solenoid, it's tests 11.73 volts pulled and hooked to a meter but.... re attached and in crank mode, only 9 volts engaging the starter. Would it benefit running 12v to a another relay to activate 12v to starter and coil? Would that work?

 

[Davea Lux]

The voltage will drop some because there is a load applied from the starter being engaged, if the vehicle is cranking the starter circuit is ok. Both leads to the ballast resistor are active from the ignition switch, I suspect that the fault lies in corroded contacts in the switch itself. Disconnect the switch and run a resistance check on the active terminals in both the start and run positions. You will probably find that there is excessive resistance. You should get battery voltage on the input side of the resistor in the run position and battery voltage to the coil in the start position. If the voltage is low, there is resistance in one or both circuits killing the operating voltage. Yes you could run a second relay to run the ignition circuit from a clean voltage source, but it probably will be simpler to just fix the fault in the stock circuit. If you add a relay, it will need to be one that is designed for continuous operation, many automotive relays are the momentary contact type and will heat up if they are kept engaged. A GM A/C relay would probably work.

Dave