Tire Pressures

If you run radials, ignore the OEM car pressure specs, they are for a completly different tire.
For radials on our heavyweight 14 and 15" tires, something in the 32 -35 # will work. That was also the OEM pressure in my 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee and many other modern cars.
The worst thing that could happen with modest overinflation is excess wear in the center of the tire. Underinflation is another matter entirely!
Mark
 
If you run radials, ignore the OEM car pressure specs, they are for a completly different tire.
For radials on our heavyweight 14 and 15" tires, something in the 32 -35 # will work. That was also the OEM pressure in my 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee and many other modern cars.
The worst thing that could happen with modest overinflation is excess wear in the center of the tire. Underinflation is another matter entirely!
Mark

Aside from consulting standardized load tables, those figures sound about right. My 2010 Honda Accord, a compact in size if it could sit next to my aunts '75 Malibu 4dr, nonetheless grosses nearly as heavy, when you factor in all the modern safety accoutrements in that Accord, plus a power moonroof mechanism up top!

32-35psi might seem too high for the OE bias-ply tires, but like you said, different construction. Those pressures should satisfy all requirements for radials: load, handling, ride, and treadwear.

Overinflated(for radial tires on a vintage car) might be 40psi and up. Too high even for most of today's cars. No reason, beyond fear or paranoia, to inflate so high.
 
The type of construction is NOT the complete story of tire capacity. Number of cord plies, as always, plus inflation pressure makes a more complete story. Not radial, not bias-belted, not bias-ply, but CORD gauge and number. The ultimate determiner of capacity is air pressure.

By the time we got to the middle 1950s, a nylon cord tire of 4 plies was the standard for a premium performance tire. Some OEMs recommended 22psi for their base tire inflation pressure, but tires were more robust back then, with thicker sidewalls and narrower tread widths. Many rim widths were in the 5"-5.5" range, with similar tread widths. No matter the tread width/rim relationship, if the tire was inflated higher than it needed to be for the vehicle load, it would tend to wear the middle tread rows more than the outside edge tread rows. And vice versa.

Back then, it was generally-known that for best tire life, an inflation pressure of 30psi could work well, although the OEM recommendations might be a bit less. Even back then, 2psi difference in inflation pressure was a deal-breaker, whether it was 2psi more or 2psi less, in general use for a nromally-loaded passenger sedan. Station wagons were different, usually.

Reading the old A.M.A. Specs, the tire pressures recommended counted "a passenger" as weighing 150lbs. That might have been accurate for back then, but head to a big-box discount store and you'll see otherwise, in present times.

When P-Metric radials came out, it was advocated that when correctly-sized as to weight carrying capacity, to take the OEM high-speed recommendations for your car and add 3psi to those inflation levels. Which, in the case of my '70 Monaco Brougham "N", would mean 28psi for 70mph and higher + 3psi = 31psi for a P-Metric radial tire. In the earlier radials, their recommended inflation pressures (per the OEMs) were not different from the prior bias-belted or bias-ply tires. Because it is inflation pressure which determined ultimate weight carrying capacity, not the type of tire construction (i.e., radial vs. bias-ply).

By the time we got to 1995, a vast majority of larger cars (as in Chrysler LH cars) came with P225/60R-16 tires, mounted on 7" wide wheels. The tire pressure decal on our '95 LH New Yorker indicated that tire size as "minimum recommended" and the inflation pressure of "30psi cold". Yet the max inflation pressure on the tire sidewall can go up to 51psi.

When I bought my first set of P77 Pirellis for one of my cars, in size P225/70R-15, the max pressure on the sidewall was 45psi. I asked the sales rep about that. He replied that on that tire, it was for people who did "racing activities". I ran them at my normal 30frt/28rr cold pressures and they lasted 60K+ miles. On the later Radial TAs, that same pressure resulted in over 92K miles per set.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

Even when 32psi was the max recommended pressure for a 4-ply rated bias ply tire, there were some who ran them a bit higher, although a 6-ply rated bias-ply tire could go to 36psi and an 8-ply rated tire could go to 40psi.

At those higher pressure, the bias-ply tire flexed less, which resulted in better steering response with more of the road being transmitted into the vehicle's cabin. MPG could increase as less power was consumed in the flexing of the tire as it turned. Not to forget a more stable tread patch.
 
At those higher pressure, the bias-ply tire flexed less, which resulted in better steering response with more of the road being transmitted into the vehicle's cabin. MPG could increase as less power was consumed in the flexing of the tire as it turned.

I find the steering in most of today's cars, or from within the last twenty years, to be more than responsive enough - perhaps too responsive for my tastes - at vehicle mfg. factory pressures, let alone 2-4psi higher.

Blame that on a combination of wider, lower profile tires on Boeing size wheels, which were once the province of the race track, but largely for looks, are now the norm on sedate passenger sedans and some x-overs, and, the prevalence of EPS(electric power steering) taking over from conventional(hydraulic pump assist).

I feel like I have to grip the wheel white-knuckled while driving a modern Camry or the most recent Fusion, compared to the more relaxed hold I maintained, one hand mind you, on the steering wheel in my 1981 Buick!

I prefer a 'heavier' steering feel, so I tend to set my cold tire pressures in anything I drive as low as I can get away with, even as low as 1-2psi below vehicle placard specs.


Not to forget a more stable tread patch.

Actually, with radials anyhow, higher tire pressures beyond a certain point reduce the contact patch, and even slightly alter its propoertions(front to back, side to side).

Not very stable feeling to me, especially combined with today's significantly wider tire treads on greater diameter wheels.
 
My '05 LeSabre Limited has lighter (two finger parking) than my '05 Impala. Different customer demographics and orientations. Both with Michelin Defenders on them.

To me, "better steering response" is a safety feature, with the higher pressures being an economic benefit due to longer tread life. My '80 Newport has 15x7 Magnum GT wheels with the OEM P215/75R-15 whitewalls on it. With the more-vertical sidewalls, due to the wider wheels, the inexpensive radials I put on it feel more like a performance tire. Firmer on impacts and quicker steering.

How quickly the center treads might wear with the higher pressures is variable. Rim width of the wheel (within the spec range) and how the tire is molded with rim width in mind.

In about 1969, "Popular Science" magazine did an article on tire inflation pressure and vehicle handling. For their test car, they used a year old Mercury 4-dr full-size sedan. First, they started with the tires at the OEM-spec "normal, smooth ride" pressure of 24psi cold. They noted the ride stiffness/firmness and steering response. Then they took it on the highway at 60mph or so. In executing a normal lane change, they counted the number of "weight transfers" from the start to end. Surprisingly, they counted 12! But when they detailed each one and when it happened, it was all there. These were their baseline tests.

Next, the inflation pressure was increased to 30psi. Same route, same notations. Then the lane change. With the tire pressure increased, steering precision was increased and only 4 weight transfers. But the ride lost some of its softness.

A very good article. Perhaps it can be found online?

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
My '05 LeSabre Limited has lighter (two finger parking) than my '05 Impala. Different customer demographics and orientations. Both with Michelin Defenders on them.

To me, "better steering response" is a safety feature, with the higher pressures being an economic benefit due to longer tread life. My '80 Newport has 15x7 Magnum GT wheels with the OEM P215/75R-15 whitewalls on it. With the more-vertical sidewalls, due to the wider wheels, the inexpensive radials I put on it feel more like a performance tire. Firmer on impacts and quicker steering.

How quickly the center treads might wear with the higher pressures is variable. Rim width of the wheel (within the spec range) and how the tire is molded with rim width in mind.

In about 1969, "Popular Science" magazine did an article on tire inflation pressure and vehicle handling. For their test car, they used a year old Mercury 4-dr full-size sedan. First, they started with the tires at the OEM-spec "normal, smooth ride" pressure of 24psi cold. They noted the ride stiffness/firmness and steering response. Then they took it on the highway at 60mph or so. In executing a normal lane change, they counted the number of "weight transfers" from the start to end. Surprisingly, they counted 12! But when they detailed each one and when it happened, it was all there. These were their baseline tests.

Next, the inflation pressure was increased to 30psi. Same route, same notations. Then the lane change. With the tire pressure increased, steering precision was increased and only 4 weight transfers. But the ride lost some of its softness.

A very good article. Perhaps it can be found online?

Enjoy!
CBODY67

A good test example, well conducted. But doesn't sway me.

Vehicle door placard pressures, as I explained before with my calculations and long-winded explanation, safely convey from 110-130 percent of gross vehicle load, in this radial tire era.

Going more than 1-2psi above those door pressures will, as you mentioned, increase center tread wear, harshen the ride, and make steering overly light & sensitive.

That 05 LeSabre steering is blown on steering wheel light because they put a high ratio steering pump on it, to satisfy the typical large Buick customer, who wants driving to be as minimal a chore as is possible.

Swap in a lower ratio pump, or a heidt return flow valve, and that Lesabre will "straighten right out", more on-center steering feel.
 
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Not "blow on it light", which is more like 1968. My '68 LeSabre was like that until I got the steering gear adjusted a bit for wear.

Other than the MagnaSteer racks, the racks for GM full-size care are the same rack, just internal calibrations (not gear ratios) are different. I have run the Michelins on the Impala to 38psi with no wear issues. When wheel rims got to the 7" wide range, higher inflation pressures (above 35psi) do not have the cengter-rib wear issues that bias-ply tires did on 5.5" wide rims.

Once, I did exploit that though, on our '66 Newport with the H78x14 BFG belted-bias ply tires. I knew I was going to be driving back to college on possibly snow-remnant highways, so I put them up to 32psi cold to ensure the tread ribs were spread a bit more than normal. When I got there, I let them back down.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
My concerns are NOT weight carrying capacity, as the max pressure is higher than 38psi. Yes, impact harshness increases a bit, but the car rolls easier, too.

CBODY67
 
My concerns are NOT weight carrying capacity,
Got that. It was satisfied at 110%.

the max pressure is higher than 38psi.
Ignore.

the number.

on your tires.


"Yes, impact harshness increases a bit,"

So why would you put up with that??
I inadvertently let my wife's 2004 Corolla(30psi cold) pressures get up to 35(smaller, lighter car than Impala), and she had a FIT! "This car drives like your old Sonata like it's on ICE, it's bumpy, I have to grip the steering wheel what did you do?!?!"


but the car rolls easier, too.

A shocker for ya:

I found my Honda actually rolls better at 32-33psi than at 38-40psi. (Yes, I did test runs at higher pressures to find out what all these f__ls were talking about).


Good handling tire pressures are actually at or slightly above door placard.

Going 5-10psi over door placard, or up to max, is for hyper-milers, or for those who dare to exceed the gross capacity of their vehicle.
 
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When we were doing "Parts and Service until Midnight" at work, one evening an elderly lady pulled into the service drive with her then-late-model Cavalier 2dr. The complaint was that she had requested a service station attendant (for the ONLY full service gas station in town, at the time) to "check her tires". The attendant looked on the tire sidewall and inflated the tires to that pressure, which was 45psi, as I recall. When done, the car rode much harder with more bump impacts being felt.

Our service advisor drove the car around the lot, took it back and put the tires back down to what they should have been.

Initially, I suspected that she had been riding around with a friend in the friend's Lexus, then felt that her Chevy should ride the same, but was never designed to do this. When the service advisor came back, told her what the issue was, and that he had corrected it, at no charge, she was pleased.

I am not concerned about weight carrying capacity, as I know that issue was addressed by the OEM when they designed the car. I'm not really concerned with better steering response or effort as the chassis designs take care of that. What does concern me is how much time can be spent in "coast-down" from highway speeds or on local streets (at lower speeds), aided by vehicle aerodynamics, too. To me, extended coast-down relates to better vehicle performance and (by watching the "Instant MPG" readout on the Driver Info Ctr) ultimate fuel economy. Through decreases in the torque required for the wheel to turn against the road surface. You might be surprised at just how much mpg can increase with a few changes to driver behavior! NOT doing the hyper-miler orientation, but learning to coast (more so than not) up to a STOP sign rather than "driving" up to it and then stopping. In such activities, which send the mpg readouts up to 99mph, rather than 20mpg or so, plus using moderate acceleration to get to cruising speed (rather than the gradual acceleration that allegedly worked with carburetors, in earlier times). Plus using the cruise control (on the highway, for many reasons) can result in fuel savings.

Due to how the particular tire sizes and rim widths interact, those slightly-elevated inflation pressures do NOT result in center-rib tread wear. The last set of Defenders on the Impala went for 100k miles in my driving. They were replaced due to other issues than tread wear, although they were getting thin enough that wet weather performance could start to be compromised.

We each have different orientations about tire inflation pressures and related vehicle impacts. I know the OEMs built their tire pressure recommendations on many other things than just weight-carrying orientations, plus the desired handling characteristics desired for "general population safety" and tire durability. I know that the standardized pressure for all four wheels might be easy to orchestrate, but can still result in one end of the vehicle having less of a capacity margin than the other end, so I devised my proportional approach to such, so each tire has similar reserves, but at slightly different inflation pressures. That approach led to increased tread life, better handling response, and a firmer ride, for me. And tire treads that "wore flat" on both ends of the car. To me, getting those benefits for just a few psi difference was beneficial for myself and the tires. When I was formulating my orientation, I used a multitude of data from trusted magazines I had in my collection, owner's manuals, and some industry publications. PLUS my trusty K + E slide rule. Considering EACH factor in the process. To me, I was successful and the '66 Newport I prototyped it on liked it too.

Whatever works for you and keeps your spouse happy, your judgment call.

CBODY67
 
When we were doing "Parts and Service until Midnight" at work, one evening an elderly lady pulled into the service drive with her then-late-model Cavalier 2dr. The complaint was that she had requested a service station attendant (for the ONLY full service gas station in town, at the time) to "check her tires". The attendant looked on the tire sidewall and inflated the tires to that pressure, which was 45psi, as I recall. When done, the car rode much harder with more bump impacts being felt.

Our service advisor drove the car around the lot, took it back and put the tires back down to what they should have been.

Initially, I suspected that she had been riding around with a friend in the friend's Lexus, then felt that her Chevy should ride the same, but was never designed to do this. When the service advisor came back, told her what the issue was, and that he had corrected it, at no charge, she was pleased.

I am not concerned about weight carrying capacity, as I know that issue was addressed by the OEM when they designed the car. I'm not really concerned with better steering response or effort as the chassis designs take care of that. What does concern me is how much time can be spent in "coast-down" from highway speeds or on local streets (at lower speeds), aided by vehicle aerodynamics, too. To me, extended coast-down relates to better vehicle performance and (by watching the "Instant MPG" readout on the Driver Info Ctr) ultimate fuel economy. Through decreases in the torque required for the wheel to turn against the road surface. You might be surprised at just how much mpg can increase with a few changes to driver behavior! NOT doing the hyper-miler orientation, but learning to coast (more so than not) up to a STOP sign rather than "driving" up to it and then stopping. In such activities, which send the mpg readouts up to 99mph, rather than 20mpg or so, plus using moderate acceleration to get to cruising speed (rather than the gradual acceleration that allegedly worked with carburetors, in earlier times). Plus using the cruise control (on the highway, for many reasons) can result in fuel savings.

Due to how the particular tire sizes and rim widths interact, those slightly-elevated inflation pressures do NOT result in center-rib tread wear. The last set of Defenders on the Impala went for 100k miles in my driving. They were replaced due to other issues than tread wear, although they were getting thin enough that wet weather performance could start to be compromised.

We each have different orientations about tire inflation pressures and related vehicle impacts. I know the OEMs built their tire pressure recommendations on many other things than just weight-carrying orientations, plus the desired handling characteristics desired for "general population safety" and tire durability. I know that the standardized pressure for all four wheels might be easy to orchestrate, but can still result in one end of the vehicle having less of a capacity margin than the other end, so I devised my proportional approach to such, so each tire has similar reserves, but at slightly different inflation pressures. That approach led to increased tread life, better handling response, and a firmer ride, for me. And tire treads that "wore flat" on both ends of the car. To me, getting those benefits for just a few psi difference was beneficial for myself and the tires. When I was formulating my orientation, I used a multitude of data from trusted magazines I had in my collection, owner's manuals, and some industry publications. PLUS my trusty K + E slide rule. Considering EACH factor in the process. To me, I was successful and the '66 Newport I prototyped it on liked it too.

Whatever works for you and keeps your spouse happy, your judgment call.

CBODY67

Another thing to consider, and this may apply more to cars built since the 1990s:

Suspension.

The suspension of a certain new or redesign vehicle may be engineered to work best with a certain range of cold tire pressures. EG: 30-35psi.

Your 2005 Impala rides a little rough at 38psi because its suspension is probably tuned to pair best with tires inflated from 29 to 34psi.

But hey, I provided my share of information, this is America: "more is better" so people, inflate away!! 44psi in the tires on a Civic engineered for 32-34, bahhh! More is better!
 
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