torsion bar removal and replacement

[LocuMob]

Any reason I'm having a hard time getting my torsion bar back in after taking it out to install my headers? The FSM doesn't say anything about it being clocked a certain way, but it is off a few degrees in back when input the front hex in the socket. Only goes in a tiny bit. I didn't remove it completely, so I know the ends are correct. Is there a simple way to turn the adjuster in the control arm? I've been prying it down to try to get the back hex lined up with its socket, but when I hit the tool on the bar the pry bar pops off. When I did this before the whole front end was tore apart so it was easy to move things around to get the bar in. It's pissing me off. Shouldn't be this hard. Hate to tear it all apart, but I could have done that and been done with less time involved. At least the header is in and looks good. I'll worknonbthe other side while you experts chime in. Do the happy dance, do the happy dance, do the happy dance.

 

[commando1]

First,
you know there is a left and a right, correct?

 

[polara66hardtop]

and front to back.

 

[LocuMob]

I stated I didn't remove it completely. Neither has ever been all the way out, just moved back.

 

[detmatt]

You're sure the adjusters are backed off all the way?

 

[LocuMob]

You're sure the adjusters are backed off all the way?

Yeah, it's flopping about.

 

[commando1]

I had to put a jack under the lower control arm and jack it up just a hair (blonde, not red or brunette - they are different) until it literally slipped into place.

This is assuming your LCA is completely bottomed out.

 

[polara66hardtop]

If you haven't removed them, but just pushed them back out ot the lower A frame, just be sure the adjuster is screwed out all the way. If your brakes and upper A frame is still attached, you simply grab the drum, and push it from below up and down a little to get the Bar back in. it isn't precise, as the weight of the brakes etc are holding the lower A frame down. If it is too heavy, use a floor jack to raise the lower just enough to get the bar back in. You have to simply get it started, then use a 1/2 inch extension and hammer to tap at the rear of the bar. It helps to grease up the end first. They won't go in easily with everything attached. but it doesn't hurt to tap at the rear. You only have to get the bar started.

 

[LocuMob]

Should be. The shock wouldn't keep it from bottoming out, would it?

 

[commando1]

That said, I would definately spin the lower nut off the shock.

 

[LocuMob]

I'm on the way back from dropping off the granddaughters, quick stop at the store, then I'll wiggle/jack the LCA. I had the Jack in use before, I did think of that, but hard to use in 2 places at the same time.

 

[polara66hardtop]

not by much. It will go back in, I've done the same thing before .That assy is hanging low because of the weight, which works against the shock. Just move it up slightly, and the bar will go back in. No two frames are exactly the same, as the car has gone down the road a long time, so wear and tear is a factor. That is why there is so much adjustment available on the anchor bolt. With the bolt out all the way, the anchor will normally go down all the way. If not, just move it up enough to slid the bar in. There is some variance, as when I rebuilt my GTX, the anchor would not touch the bolt, it was up maybe a quarter inch in order to get the bar in. I just had to adjust that side a few more turns to even out both sides. which will be the next step. My suggestion is, once the bars are back in, turn the adjuster bolt 30-34 full revolutions, both sides while the car is off the ground. Starting from all the way out of course. the round end should just touch the anchor when you begin to turn the bolt. That will get you close. Cranky they are, but it will work.

 

[commando1]

I'm almost certain that will do it for you. Good luck.

 

[polara66hardtop]

It can't hurt. Maybe loosen the nuts on the top of the shock until the shock isn't a factor. I can't remember how easy it is to get to that lower bolt on a C body. A B body with the sway bar sucks to get to that bolt.

 

[LocuMob]

I'll let you know how it turned out when I conquer it.

 

[polara66hardtop]

When I was 30 I could lift the assy, grab the bar, and slid the bar in, I also could leap tall buildings with a single bound!
Now I think about it, and I get tired.

 

[LocuMob]

Damn! That was fun! I lifted the LCA a little, that went the opposite direction I wanted, so I took out the lower shock bolt. That relieved the pressure just enough to pry the adjuster enough to get both hexes lined up properly. During all this, I noticed my center link needs to be flipped so I can turn the wheels! Found the pickle fork so that will be next. Thanks Stan, polara66hardtop, detmatt and anybody else I missed.

 

[LocuMob]

Whoops! No need to repeat.

 

[polara66hardtop]

You are welcome! What kind of C Body is it?

 

[LocuMob]

Same as your name, 66 Polara hardtop!