That's unfortunate, I call and bug dealerships I don't even live by, and pick their brains and have had plenty of help. Then there's that guy in Canada that I bug from time to time.
Transmission pan leak and intake manifold gasket problem
- Thread starter Biggredd2069
- Start date
Dan Scully
Well-Known Member
Works great , if you can get it on a lift it makes it that much easier. I have had one for years .
Usually all they know is what the computer tells them. Need a VIN or they can't "find" anything, many times. Zero product knowledge, typically, UNLESS they're in some OEM-spec online training program where they have to know some answers about the product. Everything is $$$$$-driven, typically. So getting that "small potatoes" walk-in aside so they can wait for that "big dollar wholesale/retail" customer to come in is far too typical, by observation.
When I was doing front counter parts sales at the dealership, I didn't care how much money the customer might spend, just that they spent it with us and they were thanked for their business with a smile. AND, I didn't mind answering questions or looking for information, either. I knew how the other dealers operated and I wanted their experiences with us to be different and better. I saw one guy at a Chevy dealer go ballistic as a caller wanted cam specs on a factory cam, when the info was a near at the GM Perf Parts catalog. Wonder the phone didn't break when he slammed the handset down! Must be hard to find "good help" who care, these days? Or 30 years ago?
CBODY67
For the OP. If you have your pan off again check for flatness of the pan. After years of someone over torquing it, the bolt heads bottom out the pan into the gasket leaving the area between the bolts loose. A straight edge and a small ballpien hammer can love tap it back into place. Or put a small led under the pan placed face down on a flat surface. The light will show you your potential problem areas. And use a new gasket for assembly.
tbm3fan
Old Man with a Hat
I have used that Moroso gasket. Did not like it. After being torqued to correct specs there were already subtle bulges in the gasket between bolt holes. It seems the rubber does slip and slide over the steel core. When the leaks didn't stop I removed it and found there were splits in the rubber surface. Using the Mopar version I achieved much better results of all that I tried and yes the other seal was replaced.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Disheartening news! We'll have to see what happens. short-term, the gasket it not leaking.
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Nope, the Yellow stuff is only good for resistance to water thus the weather strip classification, remember I would use gasoline to get that stuff off my hands. I always would keep a tube of this stuff in my sealer box.
The oil and gas resistant brown goo. First used it as a young pup to glue Homelite XL12 chainsaw gas tank halves together (Homelite recommended) Then would use it as the sealer for Harley Davidson crankcase halves. (no gasket required)
If you do use it have fun getting it apart! (takes special skills)
Took me awhile to remember the 'Brown Goo' and search for it as the 3M site is a frigg'in nightmare.
3M™ Nitrile High Performance Rubber and Gasket Adhesive 847 | 3M United States
The gorillas snot is supposed to be resistant to oils etc.
3M™ Yellow Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive | 3M United States
Although.... I have to say that the stuff you mention sounds even better.
I still wouldn't use a sealer in this case though....
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Oh and to the OP and others with leak-i-tis of the transmission variety.
Check you steel cooler lines at the holding brackets as the line can get chaffed through and leak as my $100 1968 Fury 4 dr was doing when bought it as disclosed by the seller.
I didn't bother looking for the leak he said it had as it was minor and it was months before I had to add fluid, but the underside was a mess and when I finally found it I just slit a small section of fuel line to go over the steel tube, plus one mini-clamp equals done deal.
Check you steel cooler lines at the holding brackets as the line can get chaffed through and leak as my $100 1968 Fury 4 dr was doing when bought it as disclosed by the seller.
I didn't bother looking for the leak he said it had as it was minor and it was months before I had to add fluid, but the underside was a mess and when I finally found it I just slit a small section of fuel line to go over the steel tube, plus one mini-clamp equals done deal.
celticwarlock
Active Member
I have a small fleet of vehicles I maintain for my shipping business, and EVERY ONE of them has a steel core/nylon transmission pan gasket. So does my '69 NY. NONE of them leak. Can you get the cork or flimsy rubber ones to work? Yeah, but they are untrustworthy and very sensitive to torque. The steel core ones are essentially idiot proof, in my experience. They can also be re-used, even after you have put a skin coat of RTV on them (it rubs off with a textured rag and a bit of effort). I've been doing this for years.
A link to the pan gasket in question:
46RE 47RE 48RE Transmission Bonded Oil Pan Gasket Molded Rubber 2464324AC a518 6 | eBay
The 518, RE, and 727 transmissions all use the same gasket (the 904 is different, but molded ones are available for that transmission also).
Speaking of sealant, use Permatex Ultra Grey *if* you choose to use sealant on the molded pan gasket. It has never failed me.
A link to the pan gasket in question:
46RE 47RE 48RE Transmission Bonded Oil Pan Gasket Molded Rubber 2464324AC a518 6 | eBay
The 518, RE, and 727 transmissions all use the same gasket (the 904 is different, but molded ones are available for that transmission also).
Speaking of sealant, use Permatex Ultra Grey *if* you choose to use sealant on the molded pan gasket. It has never failed me.
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