Transmission tips

[70NPORT]

Ok I need a bit of schooling.....

Last time I did anything with a transmission was years ago. It was a 904TF in one of the Dodge Chargers I once owned (72' & 73'). I took it to a tranny shop where I used to live and they dump/flushed the old fluid, made some adjustments (it wasn't shifting properly) cleaned, put in fresh filter and then sealed it back up with new gasket. They did a decent job, I just paid the bill and drove off...didn't get my hands dirty at all. Thus I have no experience fooling with or servicing myself the transmission.

So here I am now. I want to flush/clean out/ install new filter and re-seal the transmission in the Newport myself, if nothing more than to get the experience of doing it. Its a 727 living behind a nice 383 4v BB. Since it'll be my first time (yes, a tranny virgin) I would like to know what's involved. It shifts correctly between all gears, no burnt or funky smelling fluid and does not appear to leak. However, I have no idea when it was last serviced if at all. When I got the car, there was no transmission service receipts with the accompanying paperwork so I can only assume the lady never had any transmission servicing and/or issues. Maybe she did, but I have no paper trail.

So again, what exactly is involved here -- aside from jacking the car up so I can slide underneath it. I want to clean out any crap if any, change the fluid, and button her back up again with a fresh filter and new gasket. I'm also toying with the idea of getting a shift kit, or would the consensus be leave well enough alone with that? Is it more PITA to install something like that than its worth? I'm keeping the stock torque converter in place if that helps. I'll have my FSM laying on my shop table (ha ya right, "garage" table,lol) to fill in any blanks.

So at the very least I want to drive off with new, clean fluid, filter and tight gasket in place. Basically I'm interested a getting under the car over the weekend and git r' done type deal.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Ideas? please, go for it.

 

[commando1]

Dropping the pan only changes about 2 qts. of fluid at best. A 727 takes 10 qts.
Funny you should ask. I did mine Tuesday.

http://www.ehow.com/way_5883354_chrysler_dodge-torqueflite-transmission-flush-procedures.html

 

[70NPORT]

Ya right....gotta flush it out, forgot that part..

 

[Newp]

Dropping the pan only changes about 2 qts. of fluid at best. A 727 takes 10 qts.
Funny you should ask. I did mine Tuesday.

http://www.ehow.com/way_5883354_chrysler_dodge-torqueflite-transmission-flush-procedures.html

That article includes some nonsense.

 

[70NPORT]

According to ur article it is not recommended to "flush" the transmission if the current fluid has over 50K mi on it"......really?? I'm not buying that. I've never trusted those "eHow" articles for a minute....perhaps there might be some small "chemical" incompatibility....but I'm not buying that it will cause premature breakdown.

 

[Zymurgy]

I was able to drain about 6 or 7 quarts by loosening but not removing the bottom of the transmission after the pan is off. I got this tip from a local Mopar mechanic and transmissions is his specialty. If memory serves me it was 7/16 bolts and about 8 of them. He to said absolutely do not flush the 727, but maybe he thought if I did it wrong I would really screw it up, so I didn't flush.

 

[70NPORT]

Well this is good. Guess I see what the FSM says about flushing the transmission. If Chrysler says fugettaboutit than that's what I'm gonna do.

 

[Zymurgy]

For what it's worth my old fluid was nasty, very dark and smelly. Doing a little better than half was huge. It actually now looks and smells normal and shifts perfect.

 

[70NPORT]

My transmission has yet to give me any problems....and the fluid isn't burned or funky smelling either.

 

[commando1]

Here's the bottom line about the controversy of flushing high mileage trannies.
The theory against flushing is the incompatibility of modern atf with the old atf saturated porous internals. The friction variance between the new and old will speed up the wear of the parts.
My opinion is that is bullpuckey. That's like having conventional oil in your engine since new and suddenly going with synthetic motor oil at say, 75k miles is going to cause your engine to fail? If your tranny fails after a fluid change, it wasn't the flush that caused the failure.

 

[Newp]

Most experience trans problems, and think changing the fluid and filter will ''fix'' it. (per some uneducated mechanics advice) When they do, and it doesn't work,and the trans eventually fails well then it must have been the fluid change.

The fluid can't contaminate itself. In a perfect situation it would (in the case of fluid) last forever.

 

[70NPORT]

Here's the bottom line about the controversy of flushing high mileage trannies.
The theory against flushing is the incompatibility of modern atf with the old atf saturated porous internals. The friction variance between the new and old will speed up the wear of the parts.
My opinion is that is bullpuckey. That's like having conventional oil in your engine since new and suddenly going with synthetic motor oil at say, 75k miles is going to cause your engine to fail? If your tranny fails after a fluid change, it wasn't the flush that caused the failure.

Appreciate you clearing that up finally. I know you just did your transmission I just have to go back and find the post. I didn't even bother to finish reading the rest of the eHow article after the flushing the fluid is hazardous to 50k or older transmissions.

 

[detmatt]

Might as well perform the internal band adjustment while you're in there. The 2nd to 3rd can only be done with the pan off. Adjustment specs are in your service manual. If it didn't need it, no harm done but if it did you will notice improved an shift. 1rst reverse is external so you should do that too.

 

[70NPORT]

Might as well perform the internal band adjustment while you're in there. The 2nd to 3rd can only be done with the pan off. Adjustment specs are in your service manual. If it didn't need it, no harm done but if it did you will notice improved an shift. 1rst reverse is external so you should do that too.

Gotcha, thanks for your input.:3gears:

 

[Newp]

Low/reverse band is internal, kick down band is external. :3gears:

 

[detmatt]

My memory is not the best, I'll stand corrected.

 

[Ghostsoldier]

I know this is a necropost, but I didn't want to start a new thread, since it's along the same lines.

I'm getting ready to install the 727 on my 440, and since I haven't done this in many years, I need a memory refresher: Could I/should I pre-fill the torque converter with fluid, before I install it in the dry trans...or will that matter?

Not being a tranny whiz, my logic was to avoid a "dry start", once I fill the rest of the 727 and crank it up for the first time. ;)

Rob

 

[Newp]

Yes you should always put some fluid in a dry converter. I use about a quart, pour it in a little at a time then stand the converter up to allow the fluid in and repeat.

 

[Newp]

Upon first start up I put the trans. in neutral. The pump on 727's don't ''pump'' in park.

 

[Ghostsoldier]

Thanks, guys....I really appreciate the info.

Rob