TTI Shortie or Long Tube headers for 68 NY’er?

[Isaiah Estrada]

Thank you all for your input and guidance!! I think in the end, I’ll search for a set of HP Manifolds. The engine is out of the car and the front clip is also off, so I don’t believe installing the engine with manifolds will be an issue. Thanks again for the great advice and not going hard on this kid who’s still got so much more to learn! Y’all are the best

 

[Isaiah Estrada]

More than anything, I was going for a cool appearance factor and for the sound of the exhaust but I guess that’s really in the mufflers! I’m thinking of doing a 20 to 24 inch glasspack with chrome pencil tip pipes

 

[LocuMob]

Other than the wheels and the mirror on the door, that looks like a car I delivered to San Clemente in Feb '18. Car came out of Iowa/Omaha Neb area.

 

[LocuMob]

I myself am going with a static lowered cruiser to have fun and turn heads at the cruises!

One of my cars has spongy springs and sits level like your car. I wanted the jacked up rear end initially, but I've since fallen in love with the low look of the car. Do what you want and enjoy it, it can all be undone if wanted.

 

[Isaiah Estrada]

One of my cars has spongy springs and sits level like your car. I wanted the jacked up rear end initially, but I've since fallen in love with the low look of the car. Do what you want and enjoy it, it can all be undone if wanted.

Wow! That DOES look like the Impala sitting in that shop! Also, I'm glad that you can appreciate how cool these cars look when they are lowered. I always say, it makes them look longer and it really accentuates the body lines and just showcases the overall beautify of the car itself! Paired with a set of some awesome wheels and a sick paint job with a beautiful interior, it's definitely a way of letting people know how beautiful our C Bodies can be!

 

[Andrew Ryan]

I installed long tube (TTI) and without the benefit of a lift, it was a much larger project than I anticipated requiring right side torsion bar removal and engine mounts to be un bolted for drivers side access and starter removal and reinstallatuon as well as new spark plug wires and after market looms. The finished product looks awesome but knowing now what a project it was/is, I would NOT recommend headers unless you're running after market heads (which I am) and they were necessary for the larger exhaust ports. Stock heads did not provide a large enough mating surface for the ports and I was constantly blowing through exhaust gaskets because of the mismatched sizing.

 

[Greg M]

I put a pair of Schumacher Creative Services short headers on my 76 New Yorker. Very nice pieces but a little pricey. They fit well with the only mod so far is a new dip stick / tube. Although it looks like Andrew did nicely without even that. The headers themselves are not noisy, but a put too aggressive sounding mufflers on it. I ready need to take the muffler noise down a peg.

 

[Boydsdodge]

I installed long tube (TTI) and without the benefit of a lift, it was a much larger project than I anticipated requiring right side torsion bar removal and engine mounts to be un bolted for drivers side access and starter removal and reinstallatuon as well as new spark plug wires and after market looms. The finished product looks awesome but knowing now what a project it was/is, I would NOT recommend headers unless you're running after market heads (which I am) and they were necessary for the larger exhaust ports. Stock heads did not provide a large enough mating surface for the ports and I was constantly blowing through exhaust gaskets because of the mismatched sizing.

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Very nice job, looks great. Love the wire looms. Is that your making or a kit?

 

[Andrew Ryan]

Very nice job, looks great. Love the wire looms. Is that your making or a kit?

I bought the kit but engineered the studs elevating the looms away from the valve covers. Stock, they would clamp directly to the valve cover and it put the wires too close to the exhauat.

 

[GoneLoco99]

Installed TTI headers on my 470 Stroker, into my 68 Imperial Crown Coupe without any issues. Took the core support out, and installed in through the front. Cleared fine.
Only recommendation I would give, install your motor mounts on your engine, before you put motor back in.

 

[John Kirby]

I bought the kit but engineered the studs elevating the looms away from the valve covers. Stock, they would clamp directly to the valve cover and it put the wires too close to the exhauat.

So who makes the kit? Been looking for something like that.

 

[Andrew Ryan]

I think I bought mine at a local speed shop but if you do your searching for "wire loom" or "spark plug wire loom" you'll find similar items... kind of like this one. Spectre Performance 18483 Chrome Wire Divider https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPWREG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_A9FDX0XXYSZKZE0WFQ53

 

[amazinblue82]

my apologies for intruding ... a recent thread tends to have most attention so I need a little help? I put the orange markings on the photo to focus my questions.

source: https://www.ttiexhaust.com/Classics-Ex/MfdCastingNo-383.pdf

1. Basically, why would '65-'73 C's have so many castings? I understand that emissions-thermal stuff was going on, they went from slabbies to fusies, etc. I guess I need one more reference .. which casting# matches what year?

2. Would the "flange measurements" simply be the result of the changes in one above. I see TTI lists importance of knowing the casting because they supply "header-back" systems that need to fit.

 

[LocuMob]

my apologies for intruding ... a recent thread tends to have most attention so I need a little help? I put the orange markings on the photo to focus my questions.

source: https://www.ttiexhaust.com/Classics-Ex/MfdCastingNo-383.pdf

1. Basically, why would '65-'73 C's have so many castings? I understand that emissions-thermal stuff was going on, they went from slabbies to fusies, etc. I guess I need one more reference .. which casting# matches what year?

2. Would the "flange measurements" simply be the result of the changes in one above. I see TTI lists importance of knowing the casting because they supply "header-back" systems that need to fit.

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What matters is what manifolds are on the engine in the car getting headers. I have no clue why they made as many different manifolds as they did, but all you need is the casting number for the manifolds you will look be using.

 

[fury fan]

Old thread but I wanted to comment on this.
I have the Hedman shortys on 1 car and they fit really well.
They do NOT require that RobbMC starter - a regular 5.2/5.9 Magnum starter works fine (after you remove the 2nd set of wiring terminals). No block-grinding for the starter.
Reportedly there is a boss on teh B-block that needs some grinding for clearance, but I put on a 440 and had no issues.
I did need to modify the dipstick, which was an annoyance.
I used a set of copper gaskets, a particular brand that had small same-as-port holes in them (most brands are oversized).

They've been on the car at least 10 years with no leaks or other issues.
My only complaint that I remember is that they supply 2-1/4" collector stubs, which is silly considering these are bigblock headers.

Go with HP manifolds and complete TTI system from manifolds back for best bang for buck.
I have installed the TTI Shorties in a couple of cars, shorties require a special starter from Robb MC (more cost), also will have to grind the block for starter to sit square. If you are not constantly 1/4 mileing your car Manifolds are good enough.
Long tube fit but now ground clearance and cost for gain you will not see with stock build.
A good recurved distributor a properly sized and turned carb with the HP exhaust will give you more power you will feel.
My thoughts for a street car.

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