Two Stupid Questions

Stormer

Old Man with a Hat
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1. How do I know what amp alternator to buy? 35, 45 0r 60? And if I up the amps do I need to replace the voltage regulator?

2. What the hell is this? It's in the same loom as the two wires running from the alternator & it is not plugged in to anything.
Plug.jpg

Plug.jpg
 
Yep, temperature sender.

You won't have to change the regulator.

Assuming you have A/C, I would say that the 45 amp is about right. 60 is good and probably a lot will say that is the one to buy because "more is always better", but I think 45 will do the job.

If you have a big stereo amplifier, 60 will be the way to go.
 
What they said...glad we could help.
 
I just swapped in a 60 Amp, dual field alt in the wagon before we went on vacation with it this year. Did the dual field system, and modern voltage regulator, because the old mechanical VR does not do so well with the electronic ignition system. Also I can get a dual field alternator, and 70 and up, style VR at any parts store. Not so much on the old mechanical VR.

Also if you put a higher Amp alternator in the car I would bypass the Amp meter in the dash. All you have to do is run an extra 8-10ga wire from the main power stud off the alternator back to the main power stud on the starter relay. This bypasses almost all the main current that used to pass through the weak firewall connections. Your AMP gauge will no longer register properly...but your lights won't dim as much, you turn signals won't slow down when your brake lights are applied..etc. ;)
 
I just swapped in a 60 Amp, dual field alt in the wagon before we went on vacation with it this year. Did the dual field system, and modern voltage regulator, because the old mechanical VR does not do so well with the electronic ignition system. Also I can get a dual field alternator, and 70 and up, style VR at any parts store. Not so much on the old mechanical VR.

Also if you put a higher Amp alternator in the car I would bypass the Amp meter in the dash. All you have to do is run an extra 8-10ga wire from the main power stud off the alternator back to the main power stud on the starter relay. This bypasses almost all the main current that used to pass through the weak firewall connections. Your AMP gauge will no longer register properly...but your lights won't dim as much, you turn signals won't slow down when your brake lights are applied..etc. ;)
I did that a few weeks ago. Can't believe how bright my headlights got...AND turns signals are bright and do not dim either.
 
Since you like to mod things.....

Go with the 100 amp alternator that they use on Formal's. It'll power all the amps and stuff you have or will have. LOL!
 
Since you like to mod things.....

Go with the 100 amp alternator that they use on Formal's. It'll power all the amps and stuff you have or will have. LOL!
If you upgrade to the 100 amp alternator do you have to be concerned about the factory wiring, like not having a heavy gauge wire to handle the added power?
 
I'll be doing the amp gauge bypass today. I probly don't even need an alternator.
 
Well, it's done & it solved all of my problems without replacing the alternator. The only problem is that I lost my fuel gauge. How do I fix that?

Thanks T-Cows, great advice.
 
Now my electric fan **** the bed. It has to be a short in the motor cuz it instantly blows the fuse when I give it juice. I even removed the switch & also hooked it straight to the battery. Same result no matter what. I could see every inch of the wire that I ran so I knew there wasn't a short anywhere but I chopped it & will have to re-run...
 
Well, it's done & it solved all of my problems without replacing the alternator. The only problem is that I lost my fuel gauge. How do I fix that?

Thanks T-Cows, great advice.

Shouldn't have lost anything from an alternative swap. But if you lost the fuel gauge, it has to be ground. It's 5v from the regulator. If temp works it's sender ground. If temp doesn't work, the it's between the alternator voltage limiter on the gauge cluster.

On the by and by, I'm converting from the antiquated VL to a modern ubec (dc/dc buck) and see if that helps my situation with the gauges.
 
Now my electric fan **** the bed. It has to be a short in the motor cuz it instantly blows the fuse when I give it juice. I even removed the switch & also hooked it straight to the battery. Same result no matter what. I could see every inch of the wire that I ran so I knew there wasn't a short anywhere but I chopped it & will have to re-run...
If you had wired it properly in the first place....
Yes. This is an absolute Stanley Happy Dance in your face "I told ya so...". :D

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Since I bought my 1973 Polara back in March 98' my fuel gauge has never registered properly. I have replaced the instrument cluster, fuel sending unit (three times), and upgraded to the solid state voltage limiter all with no success.
 
I know I kind of hijacked the post there for a second so I do apologize. Reading about your wiring issue, specifically the loss of your fuel gauge brought back all of those awkward phone calls I have made to my wife about running out of gas. I hope the story has a happy ending.
 
Disconnect the fuel sender at the tank, turn on the key, note the position of the gauge, ground the sender wire, the gauge should sweep. If it does the sender is bad. If it does not move ck for power with a voltmeter on the sender wire. hope this helps the both of you
 
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