68plymouth383
Senior Member
Maybe some bailing wire also would help..........
I'll use duct tape this time so I know it will hold.
I'll use duct tape this time so I know it will hold.
Disconnect the fuel sender at the tank, turn on the key, note the position of the gauge, ground the sender wire, the gauge should sweep. If it does the sender is bad. If it does not move ck for power with a voltmeter on the sender wire. hope this helps the both of you
It's too much coincidence that it stopped working after I bypassed the amp gauge. I just don't think it's getting any juice at all. The needle is on E, clue?
Thank you for the helpful advice. I did just that in my you tube video at the following link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rljpbS3jcZo&list=FL398Wy2RSPMDWzhKCYmG3FQ&index=35
As you can see, the arm sweeps completely to the FULL mark on the fuel gauge when it is grounded. As I stated earlier, I have replaced the sending unit three times without any significant improvement. When the tank is full it only reads between 3/4 and 2/3. Does anyone know who makes a quality sending unit or a business that specializes in their repair?
I don't know the page, but there is a lot of stuff on the Imperial car club website archives about fuel senders. I specifically remember reading about fixes for the guagues not reading properly, and the recommendation not to adjust the senders or buy new ones, but to do a sequence of things to fix the actual problem. You should spend some time poking around there to see what you can pull out.
On the Charger forums I have read that the wiring is good for around 65 amps is I believe is the safe way to go and anything above that is questionable. One thing to look into is I like the run the ones from a 85-86 Diplomat with a 318. It will say 78 amp online but, the actual output is around 70 amps. The other thing is to convert the amp to a volt gauge. I have also ran an updated cluster voltage limiter with a "short" detector in it as well.