Unstoppable Oil Leak!!!!

[Oz Sport Fury]

Hey guys,

I have tried everything I can think of with my bloody 400 RB engine!, its hosing oil out the passenger side of the engine where the timing cover, sump and block meet right on the corner!

Pic below is not my engine just to show where the issue is.

So far I have removed the sump, a miracle it just fell off as it doesn't have any internal baffles, another issue thats not helping my problem.

I beat the sum flat and true, took time to use a quality sealer and new gasket on both sides of the gasket. Let it dry 24hrs before starting it.

Removed the timing cover and replaced the crank seal in the cover as it looked damaged, again used a quality sealer and new gasket allowing it to dry 24hrs before starting.

Made sure all bolts were done up firmly.

I can't see what's wrong as it all looks good but its losing oil badly in that passenger side front corner.

Have I missed something or done something wrong?

Cheers,

 

[volksworld]

is the oil slinger on the crank behind the seal? Is there any damage to the damper where the seal rides on it ? they make repair sleeves to go on the damper if thats the issue

 

[CBODY67]

What existing issue were you trying to remedy by putting in a new pan gasket and front cover items? How much oil is in the oil pan? Is the PCV valve operational? is the noted oil slinger still where it was, on the nose of the crankshaft behind the front cover? How was the front crank seal "damaged"? I've seen then worn, with a small groove worn in the back of the balancer where it rubs against it (which is what the "sleeve" fixes), but not "damaged" as such.

Does the oil loss happen with the engine running or after it sits for a while, on level ground?

Did you put a dab of sealer on each of the lower corners where the front cover and oil pan gaskets get close to each other?

Just curious,
CBODY67

 

[Oz Sport Fury]

is the oil slinger on the crank behind the seal? Is there any damage to the damper where the seal rides on it ? they make repair sleeves to go on the damper if thats the issue

That part is all good, we checked that, its got a double row chain on it so its been apart at some time to do that

 

[Oz Sport Fury]

What existing issue were you trying to remedy by putting in a new pan gasket and front cover items? How much oil is in the oil pan? Is the PCV valve operational? is the noted oil slinger still where it was, on the nose of the crankshaft behind the front cover? How was the front crank seal "damaged"? I've seen then worn, with a small groove worn in the back of the balancer where it rubs against it (which is what the "sleeve" fixes), but not "damaged" as such.

Does the oil loss happen with the engine running or after it sits for a while, on level ground?

Did you put a dab of sealer on each of the lower corners where the front cover and oil pan gaskets get close to each other?

Just curious,
CBODY67

Its hosing out when its being driven, I think its when the oil rushes forward under breaking its coming out the corner as shown, balancer is dry behind, no oil coming from the crank seal in the timing cover.

No oil leaks when stationary when started, only after its been driven.

Is the sump gasket and timing cover gasket all thats needed to seal where they meet in that area?

Cheers,

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

Picture of actual engine like just a engine bay shot and if your got the gumption close up of the underside leak would help. Without pics were just Stevie Wondering it.


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[68PK21 440.6bbl]

Oh and BTW here's what's Nick Garage thinks about gluing/sealing gaskets.




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[CBODY67]

Silicone-based items have their place as a sealer, but NOT as an adhesive. There is a difference.

Putting a thin, skin-coat of sealer on the rubberized-cork gaskets, then letting them cure 24 hrs before installation enhances the seal of the orig gasket, plus making it easier to clean up when removed . . . is much different than using the sealer as "adhesive", as Nick illustrated.

 

[Loadrunner]

Did you put a dab of sealer on each of the lower corners where the front cover and oil pan gaskets get close to each other?

There are no unstoppable oil leaks, but plenty of gaskets installed improperly, a thing for longer than I care to remember.

A) Only use Fel Pro rubber/cork gaskets.

B) Only use sealer on one side of the gasket, against pan or valve cover, and let it dry until the gasket will not move.

C) Do use a decent sealer in the corners, I'd recommend Ultra Black these days. Let it dry out overnight.

Do make sure flanges are flat and not distorted by prior overtightening.

Do make sure surfaces are truly clean and dry, use CRC Brakleen, red can.

Now I can start bashing on the shop I worked out fresh out of Automotive/Heavy Equipment. My boss informed me that there "was no way you could keep a big block Mopar from leaking from the valve covers" typical Mopar blaming for sh&tty work, and that's what they told people who's tuna boats they worked on.

Truly appalling.

I was the lowest paid guy in the shop and told him he was full of ship. I said "Let me do it, and it won't leak". He didn't have quite enough pride not to take me up on it.

Procedure goes like this.

Remove covers, clean mating surfaces well using scrapers only, no quickie power tool methods. Pound down warped bolt holes from overtightening. Wipe down really well with CRC, until a rag stays clean while wiping.

Put slight bead of silicone on covers, install Fel Pro rubber/cork gaskets, and let it dry until gaskets don't move, most shops don't have the patience for this. Install covers, don't overtighten bolts and crush gaskets, and you're done. Never put sealer on the other side of the gasket, it makes a mess and makes cover removal for inspection or gasket replacement a huge hassle.

If I had a buck for every engine (Chevys) I've seen/worked on with a shipload of silicone on the other side of the gasket, gooped out all over the place and leaking like sieve, I'd be a rich man.

Make sure you don't have too much crankcase pressure, from excessive blow by from leaky piston rings.

Use decent conventional oil, like Valvoline Racing or Rotella T4, these engines were never designed for synthetic oils.