OK wagon lovers, what do you use for the headliner? Is the perforated pressed sawdust panels around still? Substitute? And what modern up grade is there for the sound/heat barrier under the roof? Being a A/C car I would want to keep heat out and cold in as best as I can (multiple heart attacks here for both of us and doc says to stay away from heat and cold..It gets hot in southern Georgia).
Wagon headliner source?
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Head to Lowe's or Home Depot. Look for closed-cell foam center, shiny on both sides, radiant barrier rolls. Quite high R-ratings, but only about 1/4" thick?
Only thing is that humidity has to have some place to evaporate to! Otherwise it settles into the unpainted metal pieces welded together to make the roof sections of the body. A friend noted that when he was in Houston, in the later 1970s, that he noticed lots of darker colored cars down there, relative to his north Texas home. He was told it is to evaporate-out the humidity so it does not collect on the inner side of the outside panels, hang there, and result in "rust", from the inside out.
Whereas, in drier parts of non-coastal TX, lighter-colored roofs were the rule so as to not collect TX sun-heat, but reflect it.
You COULD use something like bats of fiberglass or rock wool wall insulation, though. Not unlike some of the panels above the headliner the OEMs used back then. More to lessen noise than insulation from heat, though.
Rather, focus on the floorpan area! Keeping engine heat out, which means "Lizzard Skin" spray-on ceramic insulation paint or DynaMat-type stick-on heat/sound insulation. Which might get a bit expensive to do a wagon all the way to the rear bumper. Not to mention the time involved!
Then using some underlayment for the wood-plank floors to replace/augment the plastic watershields behind the door trim panels. Even some of the radiant barrier stuff would be good here, provided the total build thickness was not too much.
As to HVAC air flow, plugging the gaps in the instrument panel ductwork can ensure that ALL of the cooler air makes it to the vents on the instrument panel and defroster. Whether with common duct tape or some softer foam weatherstripping, whatever works.
As a side issue, becoming more active, with doctors' guidance. Might have many benefits! When I was running regularly, even in 100*F temperatures. 5-6 mile jogs/day, doing "interval training", my heat tolerance went up big time. Made those cool showers at Bally's afterward feel amazing! Got leaner, too! But that was 40yrs ago.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Only thing is that humidity has to have some place to evaporate to! Otherwise it settles into the unpainted metal pieces welded together to make the roof sections of the body. A friend noted that when he was in Houston, in the later 1970s, that he noticed lots of darker colored cars down there, relative to his north Texas home. He was told it is to evaporate-out the humidity so it does not collect on the inner side of the outside panels, hang there, and result in "rust", from the inside out.
Whereas, in drier parts of non-coastal TX, lighter-colored roofs were the rule so as to not collect TX sun-heat, but reflect it.
You COULD use something like bats of fiberglass or rock wool wall insulation, though. Not unlike some of the panels above the headliner the OEMs used back then. More to lessen noise than insulation from heat, though.
Rather, focus on the floorpan area! Keeping engine heat out, which means "Lizzard Skin" spray-on ceramic insulation paint or DynaMat-type stick-on heat/sound insulation. Which might get a bit expensive to do a wagon all the way to the rear bumper. Not to mention the time involved!
Then using some underlayment for the wood-plank floors to replace/augment the plastic watershields behind the door trim panels. Even some of the radiant barrier stuff would be good here, provided the total build thickness was not too much.
As to HVAC air flow, plugging the gaps in the instrument panel ductwork can ensure that ALL of the cooler air makes it to the vents on the instrument panel and defroster. Whether with common duct tape or some softer foam weatherstripping, whatever works.
As a side issue, becoming more active, with doctors' guidance. Might have many benefits! When I was running regularly, even in 100*F temperatures. 5-6 mile jogs/day, doing "interval training", my heat tolerance went up big time. Made those cool showers at Bally's afterward feel amazing! Got leaner, too! But that was 40yrs ago.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
volksworld
Well-Known Member
I've read somewhere that REM makes the perforated roof panels but you have to buy them from a REM dealer...and most of those dealers don't bother to list them on their websites...haven't actually searched for them myself so I could be wrong
livininharrow
Senior Member
i am having a fabric headliner installed by a professional upholstery guy for my 66 fury wagon as i type this. its almost done and looks amazing so far, not cheap though. not only did i need the cardboard panels but allmost all of the chrome strips were toast. ill post pictures when its done if my computer cooperates. he used the same insulation in the roof as cbody67 mentioned.
71Polara383
Kid with ballcap
I have a 69 and worked directly REM to have the proper boards made.
SGT FURY
Senior Member
Im in need of 61 Fury panels.
Were you guys happy with results?
Were they preformed or did you
have to form them into place?
Were you guys happy with results?
Were they preformed or did you
have to form them into place?
71Polara383
Kid with ballcap
Fit was good after we worked out that the file they had was for 70/71 not 69.
Make sure they ship it carefully.
Make sure they ship it carefully.
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