What are you working on today??

I had some time away from the client above while I waited for other trades to finish their work so I took this job.
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Looks like some creative artwork right there.....:icon_fU:

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"What are you working on today?".....

Helping and documenting my stepdad with getting YET ANOTHER c-body today that we got from our good friend and a member here, AND that I really wish was mine. It is a '67 LL1 Dark Turquoise VIP fast-top with a black interior, black vinyl top, a "G" code 383 2bbl and air.

We need some pic's

Responding to my and 65sporty's posts above from November, here are some pictures of the newest car to the fleet. A full thread on the car will be coming soon.....
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Here’s the next project that kept me from working on Imperials.
Before obviously.:lol:
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I did custom railings & valances for this client 6 years ago when most of the rest of the house was remodeled and this bathroom was the last room that was untouched from the last millennium.
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Because of the added detail I wanted for the face of the vanity, hinged doors were not an option so I designed these grandstand style drawers.
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Looks great Matt. Funny - I work for one of the top architecture firms in the nation and I have met my greatest challenge. I am working for what is my toughest client. She questions everything, changes her mind, expects you to “just build it”….almost as if she is an expert after checking in with her girlfriends or mother. Yep - you guessed it, it’s my wife! I have reselected tile 3x this week and mocked up 3 mantels.
:lol:
 
I had to swap out the lock cylinder and tumblers in my daily Colorado Tuesday, they don't make a pre-assembled unit so I take mine apart to get the codes off the tumblers and code the new cylinder. I got it all together and drove it home, pulled up to the mail box and my drivers window wouldn't go down???? I also noticed the door locks weren't working:BangHead: So yesterday morning I checked it out, checked the door switch and wiring. I could get the passenger door to lock by jumping the wires, but not the drivers door. I pulled the door panel on the drivers door and found this....
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One of the window motor wires was rubbed through and shorted to the door. I don't know what kind of havoc was going on inside the master window switch, but after repairing the wire the drivers window works again and the door locks work again. :D I am a happy camper again
 
Decided to overhaul my favorite screwdriver.
In 1988 I bought my first Snap-On tool. It was a ratcheting screw driver/nut driver SSDMR4A. It had a removable cap to store the different bits and 1/4” driver. It seems to me that it was just under $30 and probably the cheapest tool he had in the truck. I used the hell out of it and likely got my money’s worth many times over. I still have all the original bits except for the 2 Phillips which I lost. I had to be careful with it as it had such a nice handle it was easy to strip screws or small bolts. It also had the finest ratcheting mechanism of any driver I have ever tried. Many ratcheting drivers will turn the screw backwards on the ratchet stroke but with not this one.

After 32 years it was starting to slip and get difficult to change directions. I was always going to chase down a Snap-on truck, but never got around to it. So I decided to take it apart and see if I could fix it. It was fairly dirty and gummy inside, so cleaned it with brake cleaner and re-oiled the gears, detent and shaft. Put it back together and now works like new.
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Decided to overhaul my favorite screwdriver.
In 1988 I bought my first Snap-On tool. It was a ratcheting screw driver/nut driver SSDMR4A. It had a removable cap to store the different bits and 1/4” driver. It seems to me that it was just under $30 and probably the cheapest tool he had in the truck. I used the hell out of it and likely got my money’s worth many times over. I still have all the original bits except for the 2 Phillips which I lost. I had to be careful with it as it had such a nice handle it was easy to strip screws or small bolts. It also had the finest ratcheting mechanism of any driver I have ever tried. Many ratcheting drivers will turn the screw backwards on the ratchet stroke but with not this one.

After 32 years it was starting to slip and get difficult to change directions. I was always going to chase down a Snap-on truck, but never got around to it. So I decided to take it apart and see if I could fix it. It was fairly dirty and gummy inside, so cleaned it with brake cleaner and re-oiled the gears, detent and shaft. Put it back together and now works like new.
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This is good timing as I have one except it’s blue and is just now starting to act up after no less than 25 years of service as one of my favorite hand tools.
 
Good Morning
I found a green handle one on one of my 'junk yard' runs, many moons ago. Mine to could probably stand a good cleaning as it doesn't change direction as well as when it was 'new'. I'll have to figure out how it comes apart.
On that same 'run' I found a rack of "Mac" 3/8 metric 6 point sockets.
Omni
 
Finally getting the emergency brakes on my 2002 F-350 straightened out.
Brackets from the cable to the brake shoes are frozen and the shoes are shot.
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I'm still dealing with running down a short after installing a new-to-me horn ring on my 1968 Plymouth Fury III convertible.
Found the delete plate/Holy Grail part for the dash, so I'm stoked!!!
 
This is good timing as I have one except it’s blue and is just now starting to act up after no less than 25 years of service as one of my favorite hand tools.
Make sure you have a tray and your readers on. The little balls and springs are tiny. Also the retaining ring is much easier to remove than to re-install. It took me a few tries.
 
Finally getting the emergency brakes on my 2002 F-350 straightened out.
Brackets from the cable to the brake shoes are frozen and the shoes are shot.
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Emergency brake lever on both sides was frozen.
Cleaned up the passenger side and will reassemble next week as family duties are a higher priority.

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Emergency brake lever on both sides was frozen.
Cleaned up the passenger side and will reassemble next week as family duties are a higher priority.
Yuck, been there plenty of times before. Glad it's coming back together though!

This was what I encountered a few weeks back on my '99 7.3. Had a cylinder drop out on the way to work, and had to drive it home shuddering the whole way. Buzz tested it at our shop at work, all buzzed good. Not enough blow by to signify a toasted cylinder, and I didn't have any of the symptoms of a blown head gasket, so I was thinking injector hold down (even though I'm VERY particular when I do an injector job). Checked all my injector hold downs, tight. Checked all my glow plugs, tight, but when I got to the #1 cylinder to pull the glow plug pigtail, I heard a "clink." Looked down and saw that both pushrods were disengaged from the rocker. Then I went to grab them to pull them out, and the broken one fell down into the engine. A few minutes of fishing with a magnet, and I had everything out. Checked the others for play, and all seemed well. Fairly certain the rods were bent when I bought it, and then I "did it in" when I put my new injectors in it. Could be that I just floated a valve too (with my wastegate unplugged she'll hit and hold 35 psi), but given some of the other stuff that I saw, and the fact that the old boy before me rebuilt a 7.3 at 200,000 miles, kind of indicates that something went boom prior to me owning it.
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Yuck, been there plenty of times before. Glad it's coming back together though!

This was what I encountered a few weeks back on my '99 7.3. Had a cylinder drop out on the way to work, and had to drive it home shuddering the whole way. Buzz tested it at our shop at work, all buzzed good. Not enough blow by to signify a toasted cylinder, and I didn't have any of the symptoms of a blown head gasket, so I was thinking injector hold down (even though I'm VERY particular when I do an injector job). Checked all my injector hold downs, tight. Checked all my glow plugs, tight, but when I got to the #1 cylinder to pull the glow plug pigtail, I heard a "clink." Looked down and saw that both pushrods were disengaged from the rocker. Then I went to grab them to pull them out, and the broken one fell down into the engine. A few minutes of fishing with a magnet, and I had everything out. Checked the others for play, and all seemed well. Fairly certain the rods were bent when I bought it, and then I "did it in" when I put my new injectors in it. Could be that I just floated a valve too (with my wastegate unplugged she'll hit and hold 35 psi), but given some of the other stuff that I saw, and the fact that the old boy before me rebuilt a 7.3 at 200,000 miles, kind of indicates that something went boom prior to me owning it.
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Bummer that you discovered the failure. Yes, the brakes will come back together.
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As I am an early riser and my fiancé isn’t, I usually spend an hour or two in the shop getting a few things done.
This morning, I sprayed the rear ash trays with SEM paint.
They were scratched and they look great.
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Replaced the Cardone 843817 with a nice reman, which turned out to have a LOOSE SCREW down in the works which JAMMED IT, resulting in shearing off the tang in the slot on the oil pump distributor drive shaft., Thank the Lord, I had a nicely magnetized screwdriver which picked the broken tang out easily, and I then replaced it with the reman formerly used to drive the busted block 383. Motor fired up nicely right off, Dwell 28 degrees, etc ALL GOOD. I have another distributor, identical to the reman, with good shaft, so I'll replace that. Note to ALL: NEVER USE NON-FERROUS SCREWS TO SECURE THE BREAKER POINTS TO THE BREAKER PLATE! Nice. ferrous screws lend themselves to manipulation with magnetized screwdrivers and such. Pity the distributor wasn't jammed when I took it out of the box but that damned screw lurked down below the breaker plate, and must have dropped into a spot where it DID jam the thing when I first tried starting the motor. No other damage sustained.
 
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