Wheel Bearing & Seal Numbers

Mopar_Mudder

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Does anyone have the correct part numbers for Bearing, Race, Inner Seal, and Outer seal for the rear of a 1962 Imperial.

Every parts store I call comes up with different numbers and I can't get a straight answer.
 
I got my stuff (for a tapered axle 64) from RockAuto. I just looked at your application and it looked like Timken bearings were available as well as good quality inner and outer seals.
Timken 2735x race & 2788a bearing. National seal #470487 inner seal & SKF 13979 outer seal.
 
You might want to try Craig @mobileparts . He has a vast knowledge of these old parts and quite an inventory too. A lot of us here have dealt with him over the years and are very satisfied. Just a great guy to deal with.
 
Well I tore it apart tonight to see what is in it.

Bearing 2788A
Race 2735X
Inner seal 46112-C1 (victor)
Outer 47332

Not original obviously so not sure they are correct

I have read that 2788 is the correct bearing, not 2788A? Napa lists the

I have found the outer listed as both 13979 and 13797.
 
I got my stuff (for a tapered axle 64) from RockAuto. I just looked at your application and it looked like Timken bearings were available as well as good quality inner and outer seals.
Timken 2735x race & 2788a bearing. National seal #470487 inner seal & SKF 13979 outer seal.

So doing some looking and that SKF 13979 seal that some people list is only for a 1-3/8 shaft. The axle shaft is 1-1/2. Also it is a 2.84 outer diameter, the hole it goes in is 2.44, gona take a big hammer

Seal I took out of mine is 47332 which crosses to Napa 15080 that is for 1-1/2" shaft. But Napa site only list that seal 15080 fitting up through a 59 Imperial
 
So doing some looking


I dont know if any of this helps you but.... the original parts books for everything are available for free download at mymopar.com.
I looked for yours.... it appears that the original Mopar numbers are 1673373 for the inner seal and 2207484 on the outer for Imperials.... no mention of different sizes for different Imperials. I am not an expert by any means. Maybe Dr. DIFF can answer your query??
 
Here's what I would do... Get your parts manual out and look up the OEM numbers. From there, you can cross reference the numbers with RA (hit the info button) with the new stuff.

Get a digital parts manual at Parts Manuals – MyMopar if you don't have one.
 
Rock Auto list the wrong seal

This is what I ordered from Napa that I think is correct.

NAPA BEARING CONE
Part #: BRG BR2788
Qty: 2
BEARING CUP
Part #: BRG 2735XVP
Qty: 2
NAPA OIL SEAL- INNER
Part #: NOS 15207
Qty: 2
NAPA OIL SEAL - OUTER
Part #: NOS 15080
Qty: 2
Inner and outer seals are for the rear end.
 
Inner and outer seals are for the rear end.


These bearings are for the front..... OP post #1 says hes working on the rear. This whole thread is unfortunately confusing.

I am not sure where the reference to the front is coming from.

I am working on the rear end and all the part numbers I have posted are for the rear end not the front.
 
I can confirm that all the part numbers I posted above are correct for the rear of a 1962.

Got the passenger side done and almost the driver side. Have to check it when I get it back together because I think there is way to much end play in the wheel bearings. Might be why they got loud.
 
Awesome. According to the manuals it should have made no difference, but what sub-model of Imperial do you have?? BTW, .018" should be a happy medium for the axle end play. Glad you got it sorted.
 
It is a Crown

It might have been off before I changed the bearings, I never checked it ahead of time. But I wonder how the old factory bearings compare to the new replacement bearings? Are they exactly the same specs or are they just close enough to work? If they are not the exact same width it will change the end play. What was in mine for bearings were not factory I don't think, seals look a little to good to be factory.

Book calls for starting with a .040 shim on one side then shim the other side as needed, mine has a .020 right now on both. Passenger side is all bolted together with the .020 shim and I slid the driver side in with the race flush to the axle flange, no shim and I still had way more them .018 just by feel, didn't measure it. If I get time tonight I will finish it up and get the dial indicator on it, but I am thinking I am going to have to take all the shims out to get close, we will see.
 
Well got it all together, with the shims that were in it .092, yikes.

Took all the shims out and only got to .062.

Probably not the right thing to do but I had a pile of carrier bearing shims from various Dana rear ends. One was the perfect size to match the race of the wheel bearing. So I stuck shims on both sides between the race and the brake back plate to push the race in the tube further. Got it at .019 now and calling that close enough.

I am guessing the thrust block in the diff is wore down.
 
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