Wheels won't fit over new disc hub?!

Turbo301

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Boy, I've never had a brake job be so much effort and so full of disappointment as the one I'm doing on my '73 Fury! What should have been easy has been full of FML moments. It didn't desperately need new rear drums, but I sprang for them... and the parts place got me in the wagon ones (3" wide instead of 2.5"). I guess I'll do RockAuto for those next time... And now, for my front discs, I already have them loaded with new bearings, grease, seal, etc., onto the car, calipers and pads installed - and the wheels won't fit :BangHead:. The narrow spigot diameter where the wheel finally seats is, like, .01" too large compared to the old rotors. Everything else fits exactly. WTF? Are these also wagon parts with which I ended up?
 
Don't mean to offend, but you're not using Ford wheels are you? The centers on those are smaller than Mopar, even though the bolt patterns are the same.
 
Don't mean to offend, but you're not using Ford wheels are you? The centers on those are smaller than Mopar, even though the bolt patterns are the same.
I'm assuming that they're factory steel wheels; I mean, they fit the brake discs that just came off, so I'm assuming there's something different about the new discs. I just wondered if they were wagon parts, if those were different for some reason? I dunno, it's very odd to have everything the exact same except that tiny spigot diameter.
 
Wagons use the same wheels, rotors, etc. as other cars. Sounds like you got parts that weren't properly machined.

Jeff
 
I ran up on that once. It did have something to do with wagon and something to do with heavy duty. But I don't remember what the combination was.
 
That would mean that no Mopar wheels except wagon wheels would fit on the front of wagons.
And that would also mean that those wagon wheels would have a gap at the register of the axle shafts, if they used the same 4 wheels on a wagon.
Unless they used special axle shafts too.
And they would have used 4 wheels the same, as the factory wouldn't want the headache (for themselves and customers) of different front and rear wheels on a car.
And would also mean that wagons had something HD that copcars didn't have.

I wish we had details on the situation you encountered, because what you described would be an engineering, assembly plant and parts/service nightmare - for no perceivable benefit.
 
FWIW, I've seen 1-2 wheels like this in my life.
They seem to be referred to as a wagon and/or HD towing wheel.

solid center steel wheel

1730509611459.png
 
Those are Extra HD wheels, my 69 Polara 500 convertible has them (per the broadcast sheet)


Alan
 
Boy, I've never had a brake job be so much effort and so full of disappointment as the one I'm doing on my '73 Fury! What should have been easy has been full of FML moments. It didn't desperately need new rear drums, but I sprang for them... and the parts place got me in the wagon ones (3" wide instead of 2.5"). I guess I'll do RockAuto for those next time... And now, for my front discs, I already have them loaded with new bearings, grease, seal, etc., onto the car, calipers and pads installed - and the wheels won't fit :BangHead:. The narrow spigot diameter where the wheel finally seats is, like, .01" too large compared to the old rotors. Everything else fits exactly. WTF? Are these also wagon parts with which I ended up?
Have you double checked the part number on box? Was the box sealed when you bought it?
I had a set of rotors that the pad frame would rub on the bearing hub, it was not machined but rough cast. Can you post the part number and make of rotors?
Don't start cutting wheels. All Chrysler 4.5 inch bolt circle wheels interchange on cars with 4.5" bolt circle.
 
Please stay on subject, this conversation has nothing the do with the parts man.
As for the problem with the rotors...most likely those are offshore rotors and the tolerance for the od of the hub is too large.

In hindsight all the mating parts should have been checked for assembly before doing the final assembly. As we have poor information which seems to be the norm it's hard to give a reasonable solution. Vernier calipers
 
We are staying on subject, the wrong part# could've been shipped and/or wrong part in the box.
Until root cause is found, all potential causes must be investigated.
But yes, probably got mis-machined, perhaps it got the C-body bearing race machining ops, but got the Ford wheel register ops.
 
Please stay on subject, this conversation has nothing the do with the parts man.
As for the problem with the rotors...most likely those are offshore rotors and the tolerance for the od of the hub is too large.

In hindsight all the mating parts should have been checked for assembly before doing the final assembly. As we have poor information which seems to be the norm it's hard to give a reasonable solution. Vernier calipers
I don't think that anyone would think to check the wheel to the rotor before assembly. Hindisight is 20/20 and all that, but I've never had this kind of fit issue before on other cars. Yes the parts are "off shore" but that's never been an issue before.

I did end up grinding the wheel bore a bit to fit, and it was no problem.
 
I don't think that anyone would think to check the wheel to the rotor before assembly. Hindisight is 20/20 and all that, but I've never had this kind of fit issue before on other cars. Yes the parts are "off shore" but that's never been an issue before.

I did end up grinding the wheel bore a bit to fit, and it was no problem.
Well, if that's how you fixed the issue - make sure to do your spare tire too.
 
all chrysler product wheels with the 5 on 4 1/2" bolt pattern have a wheel center register hole diameter of 2. 815 - 2.825/.830" from at least 1962 [and earlier, even those with the "lug bolts", clear back to 1933] to at least the 1999-2007 minivan wheels. the hub/rear axle register diameter [where the wheel sits when installed] is 2.800 - 2.810", on all these model years as well, including the rear hubs used with the keyed axles from 1933 to 1964.
this has been confirmed by me personally measuring these parts for over 50 years with precision machinist measuring tools.
do not confuse these diameters with the rotor or drum mounting register diameters, as these are larger.
these measurements were confirmed with ALL paint and rust removed from the previously mentioned parts. not doing this will cause erroneous measurements and possible fitment issues.
just my personal life experience with these mentioned parts.
your mileage will vary.
 
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