Where is the wheel cylinder wrench?

mrs49

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Doing the brakes on the 67-300. Came to the front wheel cylinder, what was Ma thinking? Do you have to loosen the backing plate to get enough room, or is there a special wrench you need. Also has anyone used the Leed's disk conversion. If so how did it go and were you able to use your stock steel wheels.
 
A brake bleeder wrench will save the day. Unless you've replaced the wheel cylinders with some of the new offshore sourced versions that is. I saw some where the hex on the bleeder was too big to use a wrench very well.

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You can also use a socket, but that's a pain.
 
If you are referring to the two bolts that hold the wheel cylinder to the backing plate, you can grind down a box end wrench so that it will fit in that space.

Jeff
 
A brake bleeder wrench will save the day. Unless you've replaced the wheel cylinders with some of the new offshore sourced versions that is. I saw some where the hex on the bleeder was too big to use a wrench very well.

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You can also use a socket, but that's a pain.
Not real good it this posting, I was talking about the mounting bolts for the wheel cylinder being so close to the steering kunckle.
 
My '66 Imperial is the same way. The brake cylinder bolts are impossible to reach, unless the brake backing plate is at least loosened up and pulled out a little, then the fasteners can be reached.

Even the rear wheel cylinders on my '69 D300 dually are a bear to get to. Ended up having to do the same there, as well.
 
Here's my modified wrench. It's a pretty old Craftsman that's half way between a standard box wrench and an offset box wrench.

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Jeff
 
I loosen the up the brake backing plate to swap the wheel cylinders, I think I will try the modified wrench next time. Got a hand vacuum pump (HF 15$) worked great, never do the two man again. Kinked 7mm wrench for the bleeder.
 
Just found this thread, I am having the same problem with the front cylinder attaching bolts. I'm going to loosen the backing plate bolts for clearance but since the two big ones support the LCA, is there anything I need to do to avoid any problems?
 
Just found this thread, I am having the same problem with the front cylinder attaching bolts. I'm going to loosen the backing plate bolts for clearance but since the two big ones support the LCA, is there anything I need to do to avoid any problems?

Support the lower control arm with a floor jack before loosening the bolts.

Jeff
 
I just did wheel cylinders on a 1965 Chevy Impala. The front brake shoe anchor is threaded and holds the wheel cylinder to the backing plate.

Absolute piece of cake to change them compared to the Chryslers. You bend back a lock tab and zip out the anchor with an impact gun. Off comes the wheel cylinder.

Jeff
 
Just found this thread, I am having the same problem with the front cylinder attaching bolts. I'm going to loosen the backing plate bolts for clearance but since the two big ones support the LCA, is there anything I need to do to avoid any problems?
Grind down a old wrench, like Jeff said and leave the LCA bolts alone. Kink a wrench for the bleeder and get a vacuum pump. Nothing is easy.
 
Grind down a old wrench, like Jeff said and leave the LCA bolts alone. Kink a wrench for the bleeder and get a vacuum pump. Nothing is easy.
Agreed, I will go the grinding route first.
 
never hesitate to fabricate the tool you need. I have a drawer of custon tools, made over the last 30 years or so. These were made to aid in service and repair of cars, trucks and industrial equipment. When I am gone they will probably be "turfed", but for now, I like my collection. Keep a collection of old tools and bits of steel as the raw materials for your creations and feel the special satisfaction they bring! Lindsay
 
Just wanted to update this, I opened a few more old tool boxes and found a box wrench that was already partly modified - someone had cut a section out of the front. With a little bit of grinding this did the trick and I got both front cylinders out.

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