Which AC compressor. RV2 or Sandon on my 66 New Yorker

surfnturf

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Hi guys... Need some help here. I've owned my New Yorker now for almost a year and since taking ownership, I made a couple of modifications. The addition of the radial tires, dual exhaust and a dual snorkel air cleaner. Yes... I know the air cleaner is not correct and actually located the correct 1966 440 TNT air cleaner on ebay and it is ordered and on its way. In addition to the sight modifications, I have added about 2,500 carefree miles on the car, and it has performed beautifully. That said, my wife and I are about to embark on a longer road trip and as luck would have it, the AC stopped blowing cold. I took it in for a diagnosis today and discovered that the compressor is no longer working.

My big dilemma.... Should I replace the stock compressor with a rebuilt RV2 compressor and convert it to R134 or get the parts together and swap in a modern Sandon style compressor? I know the new style is more efficient and doesn't use has much HP to drive it... But will it cool better? The car has way then enough power and I can't see how I'd notice a 5 HP difference. Your advice will be greatly appreciated.

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If it were me, I'd rebuild the original. Parts are still available to do it right.

Others here are Sanden enthusiasts, and all power to them, but I'm an RV2 fan.

Just my 2 cents.

By the way, is your Autopilot working? I'm the Autopilot guy - I can rebuild your dash dial, and service your underhood servo etc. A few satisfied customers here on FCBO - PM me if you wish to discuss.

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I'm leaning towards sticking with the RV2 more for stock looks than anything else. I haven't tried my autopilot yet. I'll give it a shot and let you know!
 
Great looking car!

When the car was built, there were three a/c compressors which were used. GMs had the GM A-6, Fords had the Tecumseh-type (which most add-on systems also used), and Chrysler had their RV-2 compressors. All worked great and lived a long time, just needing R-12 gas and the matching oil.

GM later evolved into their Wanklel-style flat pancake compressors. All of these compressors had about 10 cubic inch displacement with pulley diameters that kept them at operational speeds that supplied great cooling. At the OEM level, Chrysler A-bodies (Valiants and compact Darts) cycled the compressors as C-bodies did not cycle them, using an internal EPR valve to regulate things to keep the condenser from freezing up. Adding the EPR valve and unplugging the cycling switch would let the A-body systems operate as the C-body systems did.

When R-134a came along, I had a friend in the automotive a/c business. When I asked about conversions to R-134a, he said all of the old factory compressors had enough guts to handle the higher pressures. He said their testing had confirmed that. Others in here have had other experiences with rebuilt units, though. I could not confirm their experiences on other a/c forums. BTAIM

For 1980, Chrysler went to a Denso axial compressor. But by that time, B/RB engines were out of production, so no factory brackets exist that could be salvaged yarded.

I fully understand the "rebuilt it" orientations. Kits do exist for that and if somebody does it that knows how to rebuild an engine, they seem to work well (with very little cyl bore wear, if any at all). Buying a reman unit can be a crapshoot as the number of suppliers of such has dwindled greatly, IF they knew how to do them to start with. Using one of the later universal a/c oils is needed for R-134a gas. As would getting all of the old oil out of the system.

A new receiver-drier will be needed, so this is a good time to wire in a low-pressure switch, as 1970s-era factory systems had. Our experiences with our '66 Newport Town Sedan factory system was that it was a bit over-capacitied (as the factory systems were back then, for consistent and reliable 40 degree vent temperatures in the TX summers, cooling well when .9lb (out of 3.5lbs or R-12) low.

The Sanden compressor is about 8 cubic inch displacment, but uses a smaller pulley for a bit higher operational speed. This gives the needed flow to make up for the smaller displacement.

There are several threads in here on Sanden conversions. Personally, I would lean toward that direction, but it is not a pure swap-out situation as some hoses will need to be rebuilt. Check out the newest thread by "TxDon" on his '66 Monaco wagon, plus a few others.

To me, the Sanden conversion makes sense. Why? Because when you happen into a shop that does a/c work (anywhere), the (generally younger) techs will know what they are looking at when they see it. So they automatically "understand" what they are dealing with. The Sanden is from "their generation", so to speak. It was also designed to handle the higher pressures of R-134a gas, too.

As to the cosmetics of a Sanden, one thing might be to mist some satin black on the compressor body and line connections for a more factory look.

Neither of the options will be inexpensive. Seems like there are a few threads in here on rebuilding the RV-2 compressor, too.

As to finding R-12 gas, back when R-12 was being phased out, there were comments about R-12 being sourced from non-USA producers, which was allegedly inferior (as to component longevity issues) and not to be used. Not sure how accurate those accounts were, all things considered. There were some EPA-approved "drop-in" alternatives to R-12, as others had their own personal experience choice.

Talk to your a/c shop on these things. THEY are the ones who will be dealing with the system in the future and taking care of it. They know (or should know) another shop associate who has converted an older system in the past and their experiences. OR might refer you to that shop.

These things might take some time, but also do YOUR homework online with suppliers of conversions for vintage a/c systems. One can be Old Air Products in Fort Worth, TX. There are also a afew others, which might be more local to you.

Do your research and keep us posted on the results,
CBODY67
 
Sanden and Sanden only unless you're afraid of having 5 points deducted by the judges. I couldn't care less what judges (or anybody in fact) think. I want COLD AIR, dammit!!!
 
Great looking car!

When the car was built, there were three a/c compressors which were used. GMs had the GM A-6, Fords had the Tecumseh-type (which most add-on systems also used), and Chrysler had their RV-2 compressors. All worked great and lived a long time, just needing R-12 gas and the matching oil.

GM later evolved into their Wanklel-style flat pancake compressors. All of these compressors had about 10 cubic inch displacement with pulley diameters that kept them at operational speeds that supplied great cooling. At the OEM level, Chrysler A-bodies (Valiants and compact Darts) cycled the compressors as C-bodies did not cycle them, using an internal EPR valve to regulate things to keep the condenser from freezing up. Adding the EPR valve and unplugging the cycling switch would let the A-body systems operate as the C-body systems did.

When R-134a came along, I had a friend in the automotive a/c business. When I asked about conversions to R-134a, he said all of the old factory compressors had enough guts to handle the higher pressures. He said their testing had confirmed that. Others in here have had other experiences with rebuilt units, though. I could not confirm their experiences on other a/c forums. BTAIM

For 1980, Chrysler went to a Denso axial compressor. But by that time, B/RB engines were out of production, so no factory brackets exist that could be salvaged yarded.

I fully understand the "rebuilt it" orientations. Kits do exist for that and if somebody does it that knows how to rebuild an engine, they seem to work well (with very little cyl bore wear, if any at all). Buying a reman unit can be a crapshoot as the number of suppliers of such has dwindled greatly, IF they knew how to do them to start with. Using one of the later universal a/c oils is needed for R-134a gas. As would getting all of the old oil out of the system.

A new receiver-drier will be needed, so this is a good time to wire in a low-pressure switch, as 1970s-era factory systems had. Our experiences with our '66 Newport Town Sedan factory system was that it was a bit over-capacitied (as the factory systems were back then, for consistent and reliable 40 degree vent temperatures in the TX summers, cooling well when .9lb (out of 3.5lbs or R-12) low.

The Sanden compressor is about 8 cubic inch displacment, but uses a smaller pulley for a bit higher operational speed. This gives the needed flow to make up for the smaller displacement.

There are several threads in here on Sanden conversions. Personally, I would lean toward that direction, but it is not a pure swap-out situation as some hoses will need to be rebuilt. Check out the newest thread by "TxDon" on his '66 Monaco wagon, plus a few others.

To me, the Sanden conversion makes sense. Why? Because when you happen into a shop that does a/c work (anywhere), the (generally younger) techs will know what they are looking at when they see it. So they automatically "understand" what they are dealing with. The Sanden is from "their generation", so to speak. It was also designed to handle the higher pressures of R-134a gas, too.

As to the cosmetics of a Sanden, one thing might be to mist some satin black on the compressor body and line connections for a more factory look.

Neither of the options will be inexpensive. Seems like there are a few threads in here on rebuilding the RV-2 compressor, too.

As to finding R-12 gas, back when R-12 was being phased out, there were comments about R-12 being sourced from non-USA producers, which was allegedly inferior (as to component longevity issues) and not to be used. Not sure how accurate those accounts were, all things considered. There were some EPA-approved "drop-in" alternatives to R-12, as others had their own personal experience choice.

Talk to your a/c shop on these things. THEY are the ones who will be dealing with the system in the future and taking care of it. They know (or should know) another shop associate who has converted an older system in the past and their experiences. OR might refer you to that shop.

These things might take some time, but also do YOUR homework online with suppliers of conversions for vintage a/c systems. One can be Old Air Products in Fort Worth, TX. There are also a afew others, which might be more local to you.

Do your research and keep us posted on the results,
CBODY67
Wow! Great information!! I'm doing my research right now.
 
Classic Auto Air rebuilds the compressors. Find some R12, it's out there, swap meets, garage sales, ask all of your car buddies, older parents might have some on their back shelf. and the RV2.
 
If it were me, I'd rebuild the original. Parts are still available to do it right.

Others here are Sanden enthusiasts, and all power to them, but I'm an RV2 fan.

Just my 2 cents.

By the way, is your Autopilot working? I'm the Autopilot guy - I can rebuild your dash dial, and service your underhood servo etc. A few satisfied customers here on FCBO - PM me if you wish to discuss.

View attachment 658629View attachment 658630View attachment 658631View attachment 658632View attachment 658633
My local car buddies are swaying me towards keeping it stock. One of them is a HVAC guy and has a stock of R12. I really like the stock look, but also want to be comfortable in the summer.
 
currently in the process of rebuilding mine....i admit to being crazy and want my engine compartment to look stock...couple things...if you do some forum research. any of the Rock Auto or chain store Murray, Four Seasons, Cardone etc rebuilds are junk and seem to amount to a paint job on a used compressor at best...so the "i'll just install a $200 rebuild " approach won't work...Classic(OriginalAir) rebuilds them, wont sell gasket sets to do them yourself any more, and don't even list a price...you have to call (they used to be north of $400 when they did)...and i've seen some threads complaining about theirs too...mine never worked when i got the car...compressor threw a rod...so sourcing NOS crank, pistons and rods,front bearing, oil pump (my fault, don't soak one in evaporust) EPR valve, gaskets and a new Santech seal has been close to $400 in parts and getting more expensive every day as the more reasonable sources get bought out and you're left with the guys that think theirs are gold...Mine's going back R12 also as i was less than impressed with my camper after it got converted to 134...so long story short, staying with the RV2 and R12 wont be cheap but it will look stock and work properly...then again a Sanden will be cheaper but by the time you buy brackets, hoses and hopefully a parallel flow condensor it may wind up similar in cost
 
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I personally and a keep it stock person. With that said though when my compressor died I went to Sanden. I works fine, no complaints and doesn't look horrible under hood. Here's my experience.

 
IMHO, the ONLY advantage to the RV2 is it looks original. It all depends on what important to you, but I'll bet that if you went down the line at any big Mopar show, you'd see more Sanden compressors than RV2.
 
Hi guys... Need some help here. I've owned my New Yorker now for almost a year and since taking ownership, I made a couple of modifications. The addition of the radial tires, dual exhaust and a dual snorkel air cleaner. Yes... I know the air cleaner is not correct and actually located the correct 1966 440 TNT air cleaner on ebay and it is ordered and on its way. In addition to the sight modifications, I have added about 2,500 carefree miles on the car, and it has performed beautifully. That said, my wife and I are about to embark on a longer road trip and as luck would have it, the AC stopped blowing cold. I took it in for a diagnosis today and discovered that the compressor is no longer working.

My big dilemma.... Should I replace the stock compressor with a rebuilt RV2 compressor and convert it to R134 or get the parts together and swap in a modern Sandon style compressor? I know the new style is more efficient and doesn't use has much HP to drive it... But will it cool better? The car has way then enough power and I can't see how I'd notice a 5 HP difference. Your advice will be greatly appreciated.

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Update: After poking around online today, I came up with a couple of options:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/125343274518?itmmeta=01HWVKT0MR55GS6KZ736GEJG3Y&hash=item1d2f0a9616:g:tp0AAOSwX1liljRg&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA4FImL4llX3IlQ710682dANHxECCliQEuY0qUaBBab+2m3oCvdWmY2T+oLrJPKF/q+cERpc/HIOpq+zE4M56B0TdRJq0fRwlWNCCXwqXw+EIAJrMrwbHODVoqKZL2hopAg5I2Bau47/6o9Tr3aaP6ZIJPNP0MGy+udw8HQrZzhXagh9+bqQH0kH3CoYKlC7ZD0LYzqvezRaOM/SiLyxIc6labpo4qh7ri6bTs2V8vkJX1ZzFgQUbgrDsGVtwfhMaL0wc40Iyfa+zEqyvQs2UhgDpH2wH0aWDQygd24r6lQUyt|tkp:Bk9SR7aK6PPmYw

Vs.

65-69 Dodge/Plymouth Big Block A/C Upgrade Kit STAGE-1

I'm leaning towards the remanufactured RV2, as I have access to R12 Freon and I like the stock look. My main concern is that I don't want to be disappointed if it doesn't cool the large cabin well. If the consensus is that the Sandon system will cool better, than I'll probably go that way. Have any of you experienced both types of compressors in similar vehicles? If so, have you noticed any improvements in cooling with the Sandon system?
 
If the rest of the system is in good nick, then it will cool like crazy. The system is an excellent one. What's important is to watch the vent temps as you're filling the system (the system is filled with the car running and the compressor/AC turned on). The amount that's on the tag on the compressor is a good place to start, but you may need to use a tad less, or a tad more, depending upon the vent temps.

Your AC guy (if he's a greybeard) should be able to sort that out.

My 66 Town and Country is like a meat locker in there.
 
Define compressor is no longer working. Doesn't turn/seized up/rod stuck out the side or clutch doesn't engage? If it's low on, or out of freon, it won't engage the clutch.

Unless it was run out of freon and oil or has a million miles on it, those compressors are about as bulletproof as they come especially if it's not been converted to R134a.
My concern would be that the tech's father wasn't born when that car was built and will just assume the compressor is junk based on age alone.

If it's not blown up and will hold vacuum and pressure, I'd get a set of hoses made for it, a new receiver dryer, recharge with R12 and send it.

If it is junk, Bouchillion sells bracket kits or a complete kit if you like to mount a Sanden on it.

Kevin
 
Regardless of what vent temps come out, the older cars are very poorly insulated against heat or cold. A few pieces of jute above the headliner, mainly for keeping the roof panel from resonating and such. Jute on the firewall inner side for sound issues. And jute under the carpet for softness and sound control. The only thing in the doors is the plastic watershield behind the door trim panel. Same with the divider behind the rear seat and the trunk. More about sound issues than thermal insulation, by observation.

Can they be made better? Certainly. Whether DynaMat-type interior stick-on panels or spray on Lizzard Skin ceramic coatings, they will all dampen sound and be better thermal insulators, too. As flaky as it might sound, using some of the underlayment for flooring strips in place of the plastic water shields can work too.

Look at a modern car. It's basically hermetically sealed by comparison. And all of the new vehicles are cooled by a Sanden-type compressor, with a huge condenser out front. Different breed of kitty cat.

Sorry for the diversion into this side issue.

Additionally, if buying a reman compressor from ANYBODY, keep your old one and pay the core charge! This is insurance if the reman unit trashes. Find a rebuild kit and keep it handy for later on!

Looks like you're getting things under control. Enjoy your travels in the NY!

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Define compressor is no longer working. Doesn't turn/seized up/rod stuck out the side or clutch doesn't engage? If it's low on, or out of freon, it won't engage the clutch.

Unless it was run out of freon and oil or has a million miles on it, those compressors are about as bulletproof as they come especially if it's not been converted to R134a.
My concern would be that the tech's father wasn't born when that car was built and will just assume the compressor is junk based on age alone.

If it's not blown up and will hold vacuum and pressure, I'd get a set of hoses made for it, a new receiver dryer, recharge with R12 and send it.

If it is junk, Bouchillion sells bracket kits or a complete kit if you like to mount a Sanden on it.

Kevin
A 66 won't have a low pressue compressor cutoff switch.

Regardless, all the required investigations into what condemns the compressor need to be done.
 
It's a very good point that even if you get frost out of the vents the fan speed and lack of insulation are real challenges
 
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