Who is rebuilding RV2 Compressors these days?

[Ross Wooldridge]

Hey All,

While I am not in an immediate need for a refreshed compressor (since I had two sitting in boxes on the shelf), now that I'm using one of my stockpile to do the repairs on the T&C as noted in this thread ( Compressor oil etc... ), I want to get my cores rebuilt.

I am not sure of anyone locally doing this any more, so I thought I'd ask here to see... thanks in advance!

 

[saforwardlook]

I noted the impressive record of this seller on Ebay recently after selling a lot of RV2 compressors and I am strongly motivated to give him a try. I called him in the recent past and he told me had had run a compressor rebuilding business many years ago now and still has a lot of nos parts left over from many years in that business and decided to put them to good use after the company finally closed its doors. Here is a link as an example of his record:

RV2 A/C COMPRESSOR WITH CLUTCH FITS MANY CHRYSLER AND DODGE WITH DRIER AND VALVE | eBay

This RV2 unit is compatible with most Dodge, Plymouth, and Chrysler vehicles from 1969 and up. We warranty these units for 1 year period provided a new drier, expansion valve are installed and system is flushed clean and dry, they are filled with ester oil and compatible with R12 and R134.

www.ebay.com

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Thanks!

I wonder if it's the same business as this one:

A/C Compressor Rebuild Service

 

[CBODY67]

(Seems like somebody, recently, was rebuilding their own RV-2 compressor in here?)

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Yes - waiting for them to chime in...

 

[73Coupe]

I noted the impressive record of this seller on Ebay recently after selling a lot of RV2 compressors and I am strongly motivated to give him a try. I called him in the recent past and he told me had had run a compressor rebuilding business many years ago now and still has a lot of nos parts left over from many years in that business and decided to put them to good use after the company finally closed its doors. Here is a link as an example of his record:

http://[URL]https://www.ebay.com/it...RppZGRElysxM7Y8jBlsvzYBFA=|tkp:Bk9SR-KF8eClYw

[/URL]

Ahh... he's probably got some EPR valves I'll bet.

 

[volksworld]

just rebuilt mine but that really doesn't help the OP...

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

My issue is I need to deal with the snout on the one that just experienced the clutch departure, and I don't have the ability nor the machine shop tools/machines to reface it and fix up the boogered keyway.

I'd probably be fine with regasketing, reringing, but I don't have the experience in assessing bearings etc. for the crank, or assessing the condition of the cylinder bores and all that.

I'd rather have a reputable shop do it.

 

[Imperialist67]

Mine will likely need this, and I am staying tuned..... THANKS>

 

[volksworld]

Ok here's the dipstick specs for the earlier setup that leans to the right

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Great info, thank you!

I am trying to find out (can't find it in the FSM) what is the TOTAL amount of oil used in a dual system when assembled "dry"... say after a complete clean and flush procedure.

 

[volksworld]

nowhere in my FSM is there a reference to the dual air setup other than to say it needs an extra pound of freon, and some procedures for testing its expansion valve...doesn't even show a picture of the roof unit...no mention of oil...if you can find the original bottle just add 8 oz of whatever kind it was to the new compressor (maybe flush the new one if you don't know what it was assembled with or how much may be in it)...if you want to flush and start over maybe your propane based substitute is cheap enough to sacrifice a charge and check it after running like the manual says?

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Yeah, I know, I was really hoping to flush all the crap out and start new, but it is likely not the best approach given there's no clear indication as to how much oil is in the system to start.

Thanks for all your help and advice!

 

[volksworld]

just realized I added the dipstick diagram to this thread and it should have gone in your "compressor oil etc" one...oh well

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Thanks.

Re new oil, I think I'm going to go with replacing what's in the compressor sump route... can't find anything definitive for complete flush and renewal...

 

[twostick]

Thanks.

Re new oil, I think I'm going to go with replacing what's in the compressor sump route... can't find anything definitive for complete flush and renewal...

I recall reading somewhere that if you drain the R12 oil out and refill the sump with the correct amount of 134a type oil, (PAG?) any residual will mix in and not fight with 134a, and it's also backwards compatible with R12 or any of the so called equivalents.

If you can find another good RV2 core that the crank taper isn't messed up on, and preferably with clean cylinders, that's your rebuild path of least resistance. A good high performance motorcycle shop should have a Sunnen or equivalent hone small enough to hone the cylinders, and be able to tell by the original cross hatch, what is needed for the rehone. If oversize pistons are an option if required, said shop should have the ability to do that small bore too.

All this being said, unless it just absolutely positively has to look original, a Sanden rotary is the easy button solution.

Kevin

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Thanks - I have several cores, plus 2 rebuilt units sitting in boxes, one of which is sitting on the bench waiting for installation. I will likely be doing the drain and refill the sump option.