Will mustang wheels go right on a 1966 fury w/4 1/2" lug spacing without problems.... mustang=4 1/2" also
- Thread starter rl000999
- Start date
Can you try them first? What size is the center hole? Fords are commonly smaller that Chrysler cars. Will the wheel fit over part of the hub that sticks out fit not hit that or interfere with the dust cap?
What is the backspacing. They look like the hub is out a lot and all the wheel is inboard.
What is the backspacing. They look like the hub is out a lot and all the wheel is inboard.
Justin Plant
Well-Known Member
They may well bolt up, but there is little to no back spacing. If (that's a big if) they fit it'll look like a unicycle going down the road.
As to the center hole of OEM Ford wheels, back in the earlier Crown Vic days, they had a nice factory wheel that looked like the old "wire mags" of the 1970s. They ALSO were used on the CVs BEFORE they went to the "front hub" bearing assembly, rather than the prior "wheel bearing" rotors they used. In one of the older C-body forums, a poster detailed how he made the OEM Ford wheels fit his Cordoba. Had to chuck the wheels into a lathe and machine the center hole larger (to the Chrysler diameter), after which the Ford wheels fit perfectly. Was NOT a lot, but enough to keep the Ford wheels from being "flat" to the mounting surface on the rotors and such.
Yes, Ford bolt patterns have been 5x4.5 back into the 1950s, but it's that center hole diameter that will be the issue rather than anything else, in OEM wheels. In aftermarket wheels, many list the "center hole" diameter in their specs. No mention of "Ford only", though.
The reason the center hole diameter is important, plus "wheel centering rings", is such that THAT hole is a locating device for the wheel, such that the lug nut studs are not the ONLY thing centering and holding the wheel securely to the rotor/brake drum on the car.
This cneter diameter also comes into play on the rear wheels, too. The round "lip" on the axle shafts do the same thing as the center hole diameter on the front wheels. A similar locating device hiding in plain sight.
On the factory 1970s Chevy Camaro Z/28 wheels, there are three little nubs near the top of the center inside of the raised center of the wheel (where the center cap snaps in). For locating purposes against the wheel hub. But on the back, everything's located purely by the lug nuts, on those wheels.
As to backspacing . . . that will depend upon if the Mustang uses a unified hub bearing mechanism or the old separate wheel bearings adjusted with a nut on the end of the spindle (as your Fury does. More backspacing on the later-model unified bearing assy. If the backspacing might be more than about 4-4.25" (measured by the CORRECT way to measure backspacing!!), the wheels will not fit correctly, being too far inward.
The wheels look good. Seems like somebody is doing them "aftermarket knockoffs"? Which might be what is needed, designed for the older style front wheel bearings.
As to other Ford factory wheels, if the spokes/wheel covers have NO recess from the outer bead area, they are for the "front hub" cars. Like a front-wheel drive car, basically. So the ones with the outer area recessed, as the old wire mags wheels were, are the "traditional" front wheel bearing vehicles, whose wheels need the center hole machined larger for use on Chrysler vehicles.
Take care,
CBODY67
Yes, Ford bolt patterns have been 5x4.5 back into the 1950s, but it's that center hole diameter that will be the issue rather than anything else, in OEM wheels. In aftermarket wheels, many list the "center hole" diameter in their specs. No mention of "Ford only", though.
The reason the center hole diameter is important, plus "wheel centering rings", is such that THAT hole is a locating device for the wheel, such that the lug nut studs are not the ONLY thing centering and holding the wheel securely to the rotor/brake drum on the car.
This cneter diameter also comes into play on the rear wheels, too. The round "lip" on the axle shafts do the same thing as the center hole diameter on the front wheels. A similar locating device hiding in plain sight.
On the factory 1970s Chevy Camaro Z/28 wheels, there are three little nubs near the top of the center inside of the raised center of the wheel (where the center cap snaps in). For locating purposes against the wheel hub. But on the back, everything's located purely by the lug nuts, on those wheels.
As to backspacing . . . that will depend upon if the Mustang uses a unified hub bearing mechanism or the old separate wheel bearings adjusted with a nut on the end of the spindle (as your Fury does. More backspacing on the later-model unified bearing assy. If the backspacing might be more than about 4-4.25" (measured by the CORRECT way to measure backspacing!!), the wheels will not fit correctly, being too far inward.
The wheels look good. Seems like somebody is doing them "aftermarket knockoffs"? Which might be what is needed, designed for the older style front wheel bearings.
As to other Ford factory wheels, if the spokes/wheel covers have NO recess from the outer bead area, they are for the "front hub" cars. Like a front-wheel drive car, basically. So the ones with the outer area recessed, as the old wire mags wheels were, are the "traditional" front wheel bearing vehicles, whose wheels need the center hole machined larger for use on Chrysler vehicles.
Take care,
CBODY67
I ran Ford wheels on my Newport for 12 years. Was told I was making a huge mistake, that my wheels would come off while driving, etc. As I said, I used them for 12 years.
BUT!
With the original drums they wouldn't fit without spacers. Once I converted to disks, that went away.
They were "Shelby CAL 500s," 15x7, 5 x 4.5. Sold through Ford dealerships in the '60s, but never came on a car from the factory.
When I got my Torque Thrust Ds I sold them to a Ford guy via Craigslist.
BUT!
With the original drums they wouldn't fit without spacers. Once I converted to disks, that went away.
They were "Shelby CAL 500s," 15x7, 5 x 4.5. Sold through Ford dealerships in the '60s, but never came on a car from the factory.
When I got my Torque Thrust Ds I sold them to a Ford guy via Craigslist.
Remember if you start running spacers you can run into other issues but the most common is not enough wheel stud left to properly tighten you wheel to the hub face causing a safety issue without installing longer studs or using ET style lug nuts. You're always better off finding wheels with the proper center bore and offset to fit the vehicle properly otherwise you may end up causing bigger more costly headaches.
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