Will mustang wheels go right on a 1966 fury w/4 1/2" lug spacing without problems.... mustang=4 1/2" also
- Thread starter rl000999
- Start date
Can you try them first? What size is the center hole? Fords are commonly smaller that Chrysler cars. Will the wheel fit over part of the hub that sticks out fit not hit that or interfere with the dust cap?
What is the backspacing. They look like the hub is out a lot and all the wheel is inboard.
What is the backspacing. They look like the hub is out a lot and all the wheel is inboard.
Justin Plant
Well-Known Member
They may well bolt up, but there is little to no back spacing. If (that's a big if) they fit it'll look like a unicycle going down the road.
As to the center hole of OEM Ford wheels, back in the earlier Crown Vic days, they had a nice factory wheel that looked like the old "wire mags" of the 1970s. They ALSO were used on the CVs BEFORE they went to the "front hub" bearing assembly, rather than the prior "wheel bearing" rotors they used. In one of the older C-body forums, a poster detailed how he made the OEM Ford wheels fit his Cordoba. Had to chuck the wheels into a lathe and machine the center hole larger (to the Chrysler diameter), after which the Ford wheels fit perfectly. Was NOT a lot, but enough to keep the Ford wheels from being "flat" to the mounting surface on the rotors and such.
Yes, Ford bolt patterns have been 5x4.5 back into the 1950s, but it's that center hole diameter that will be the issue rather than anything else, in OEM wheels. In aftermarket wheels, many list the "center hole" diameter in their specs. No mention of "Ford only", though.
The reason the center hole diameter is important, plus "wheel centering rings", is such that THAT hole is a locating device for the wheel, such that the lug nut studs are not the ONLY thing centering and holding the wheel securely to the rotor/brake drum on the car.
This cneter diameter also comes into play on the rear wheels, too. The round "lip" on the axle shafts do the same thing as the center hole diameter on the front wheels. A similar locating device hiding in plain sight.
On the factory 1970s Chevy Camaro Z/28 wheels, there are three little nubs near the top of the center inside of the raised center of the wheel (where the center cap snaps in). For locating purposes against the wheel hub. But on the back, everything's located purely by the lug nuts, on those wheels.
As to backspacing . . . that will depend upon if the Mustang uses a unified hub bearing mechanism or the old separate wheel bearings adjusted with a nut on the end of the spindle (as your Fury does. More backspacing on the later-model unified bearing assy. If the backspacing might be more than about 4-4.25" (measured by the CORRECT way to measure backspacing!!), the wheels will not fit correctly, being too far inward.
The wheels look good. Seems like somebody is doing them "aftermarket knockoffs"? Which might be what is needed, designed for the older style front wheel bearings.
As to other Ford factory wheels, if the spokes/wheel covers have NO recess from the outer bead area, they are for the "front hub" cars. Like a front-wheel drive car, basically. So the ones with the outer area recessed, as the old wire mags wheels were, are the "traditional" front wheel bearing vehicles, whose wheels need the center hole machined larger for use on Chrysler vehicles.
Take care,
CBODY67
Yes, Ford bolt patterns have been 5x4.5 back into the 1950s, but it's that center hole diameter that will be the issue rather than anything else, in OEM wheels. In aftermarket wheels, many list the "center hole" diameter in their specs. No mention of "Ford only", though.
The reason the center hole diameter is important, plus "wheel centering rings", is such that THAT hole is a locating device for the wheel, such that the lug nut studs are not the ONLY thing centering and holding the wheel securely to the rotor/brake drum on the car.
This cneter diameter also comes into play on the rear wheels, too. The round "lip" on the axle shafts do the same thing as the center hole diameter on the front wheels. A similar locating device hiding in plain sight.
On the factory 1970s Chevy Camaro Z/28 wheels, there are three little nubs near the top of the center inside of the raised center of the wheel (where the center cap snaps in). For locating purposes against the wheel hub. But on the back, everything's located purely by the lug nuts, on those wheels.
As to backspacing . . . that will depend upon if the Mustang uses a unified hub bearing mechanism or the old separate wheel bearings adjusted with a nut on the end of the spindle (as your Fury does. More backspacing on the later-model unified bearing assy. If the backspacing might be more than about 4-4.25" (measured by the CORRECT way to measure backspacing!!), the wheels will not fit correctly, being too far inward.
The wheels look good. Seems like somebody is doing them "aftermarket knockoffs"? Which might be what is needed, designed for the older style front wheel bearings.
As to other Ford factory wheels, if the spokes/wheel covers have NO recess from the outer bead area, they are for the "front hub" cars. Like a front-wheel drive car, basically. So the ones with the outer area recessed, as the old wire mags wheels were, are the "traditional" front wheel bearing vehicles, whose wheels need the center hole machined larger for use on Chrysler vehicles.
Take care,
CBODY67
I ran Ford wheels on my Newport for 12 years. Was told I was making a huge mistake, that my wheels would come off while driving, etc. As I said, I used them for 12 years.
BUT!
With the original drums they wouldn't fit without spacers. Once I converted to disks, that went away.
They were "Shelby CAL 500s," 15x7, 5 x 4.5. Sold through Ford dealerships in the '60s, but never came on a car from the factory.
When I got my Torque Thrust Ds I sold them to a Ford guy via Craigslist.
BUT!
With the original drums they wouldn't fit without spacers. Once I converted to disks, that went away.
They were "Shelby CAL 500s," 15x7, 5 x 4.5. Sold through Ford dealerships in the '60s, but never came on a car from the factory.
When I got my Torque Thrust Ds I sold them to a Ford guy via Craigslist.
Remember if you start running spacers you can run into other issues but the most common is not enough wheel stud left to properly tighten you wheel to the hub face causing a safety issue without installing longer studs or using ET style lug nuts. You're always better off finding wheels with the proper center bore and offset to fit the vehicle properly otherwise you may end up causing bigger more costly headaches.
Dads300
Active Member
Those wheels likely have 6.5” or so of backspace. Even if they bolt on, they will look silly and likely rub on various suspension and body parts as the suspension and steering cycles.
@Snotty. Those Shelby wheels are awesome units. My bro had a set, they are WAY lighter than any other aluminum slot mag that I’ve come across. I imagine the center hole was larger than a factory ford wheel as was the custom at the time for aftermarket wheels.
Travis..
@Snotty. Those Shelby wheels are awesome units. My bro had a set, they are WAY lighter than any other aluminum slot mag that I’ve come across. I imagine the center hole was larger than a factory ford wheel as was the custom at the time for aftermarket wheels.
Travis..
I have installed ford 4.5's on a jeep cherokee I had that were also 4.5's.
The ford rims were hubcentric and although they fit, and tightened down and looked to be correct, when I would get up to 75 miles an hour I would get the worst death wobble in the rear of the jeep. So bad it was scary. I thought more was going on, but I just threw on some jeep rims and all that went away. Swapped tires and made the rims go away. As I understand, all ford wheels are hubcentric and they use that central hole for locating the seat on the ford rims.
don't use the ford rims.
The ford rims were hubcentric and although they fit, and tightened down and looked to be correct, when I would get up to 75 miles an hour I would get the worst death wobble in the rear of the jeep. So bad it was scary. I thought more was going on, but I just threw on some jeep rims and all that went away. Swapped tires and made the rims go away. As I understand, all ford wheels are hubcentric and they use that central hole for locating the seat on the ford rims.
don't use the ford rims.
Blusmbl
Member
I have put those Mustang wheels on a ‘68 300, it required a set of bolt on wheel spacers. I think they were 1.5” but my memory is fuzzy, did it back in ~2006.
did you need spacers on all 4 wheels or just the front ????
Blusmbl
Member
All 4.
Could be. As I said, I did have to use a spacer when I still had drums, due to the high ridge area on the sides of those '70 Drums. Once I put on the disks (from a '71) I had no problem.
furyus_sl6
New Member
I've been using modified crown vic and lincoln lsc rear drive wheels for years. The center hole had to be enlarged, but by so little that I used a small gringing wheel. Took about 20 minutes to do all four. I have experienced no problems at highway or city speeds both typical and excessive. If you use spacers/adapters you do not have to modify the center hole ID. All my vehicles have disk brakes so I had no front drum issues. My two cents based on real world experience and use.
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
- Locked
