Window Regulator removal

1977newyorker

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I need to replace the motor on my passenger window. i see that the regulator is mounted with 3 rivets. when i go to reinstall, can these be replaced by nuts and bolts? i don't have access to a rivet tool that large. I haven't started yet, so any other advice? thanks in advance.
 
I need to replace the motor on my passenger window. i see that the regulator is mounted with 3 rivets. when i go to reinstall, can these be replaced by nuts and bolts? i don't have access to a rivet tool that large. I haven't started yet, so any other advice? thanks in advance.
this is on a 1977 New yorker, BTW......
 
2 door? 4 door? front? rear?
Are you sure those are rivets?, seams odd that rivets were used.


Alan
 
The rivets stay!!!, there’s (3) bolts that hold the motor and gear to the regulator. I’ll see if I can dig up a picture of mine.

My guess is the Teflon / plastic bushings are shot. It’s an easy repair, just takes a little time.
 
1722783731212.jpeg

Look inside (3) of those pre-drilled holes, those will give you access to the motor and gear for removal.. Please be sure the window is in the up position and secured somehow so it doesn’t slide down once the motors pulled.

Pictured is my 77 NYB drivers door.
 
1722784116015.jpeg

this is my guess as to your window not working, assuming the motor itself is good and you hear it operate when the window switch is depressed, the little Teflon/plastic gears go bad after 40+ years
 
1722784291974.jpeg

Circled are the (3) bolts you’ll remove the get the motor and gear combo out.. if you feel you need to remove the entire regulator then that’s a whole Nother conversation, I would start with pulling the motor and gearbox, check that first before going to distance pulling the regulator.

FYI… the edges of those access holes in the door are very sharp. Wear a long sleeve or some kind of arm protection.
 
View attachment 675786
this is my guess as to your window not working, assuming the motor itself is good and you hear it operate when the window switch is depressed, the little Teflon/plastic gears go bad after 40+ years
So where can we source replacement parts?
Also, are the formal window motors different than 1973 window motors?
Thanks for all help!
 
View attachment 675788
Circled are the (3) bolts you’ll remove the get the motor and gear combo out.. if you feel you need to remove the entire regulator then that’s a whole Nother conversation, I would start with pulling the motor and gearbox, check that first before going to distance pulling the regulator.

FYI… the edges of those access holes in the door are very sharp. Wear a long sleeve or some kind of arm protection.
Excellent. This is exactly what i need. The motor is def bad. Got a new one from rock auto. I was concerned, i'd read something about everything being spring loaded? Here' my pic and rivets.

20240804_185811.jpg
 
The rivets stay!!!, there’s (3) bolts that hold the motor and gear to the regulator. I’ll see if I can dig up a picture of mine.

My guess is the Teflon / plastic bushings are shot. It’s an easy repair, just takes a little time.
My driver side does wiggle a lot going up. Prob do need bushings over there.....
 
So where can we source replacement parts?
Also, are the formal window motors different than 1973 window motors?
Thanks for all help!
Yes, the motors and gears are different between the 73 and 77s.

As to your window, wobbling back-and-forth, it’s probably the roller bushings on the regulator that are bad. If that’s the case, then yes the regulator has to come out which does involve the spring as you mentioned. But there is a way to lock that in place and take the unit out as a whole. If the regulator and spring are not secured, when you go to remove it, the spring will unload and do some severe damage to body parts.

Below is the motor and regulator out of my drivers door, Notice the roller at the end of the regular arm, that’s what scissors your window up and down in the window track, if that roller! X2 has gone bad that would cause your window to teeter totter up and down, in the second picture you’ll notice the shiny (out of place) bolt on the left of the regulator. That will keep the regulator spring in place if you have to remove it as a whole unit. If you’re just replacing the motor and the plastic gears, then it’ll be just the three bolts circled.
1722838937640.jpeg

1722838969027.jpeg
 
Following up, partial success. My door doesn't have the access holes, so i made my own. Got the old one out, but the new one was incorrect. Don't trust the Dorman product listing for these. It has the wrong mounting and wrong electrical.

20240810_160946.jpg
 
Following up, partial success. My door doesn't have the access holes, so i made my own. Got the old one out, but the new one was incorrect. Don't trust the Dorman product listing for these. It has the wrong mounting and wrong electrical.

View attachment 676524
Strange…. Very strange that your door didn’t have access holes. Maybe was a Friday or Monday car on the production line.. lol
 
Can you fix yours using the gears 75landyacht recommended?
The gears themselves were fine. The gear housing was incorrect. I tried to swap the housing, but its integral to the electric motor. My efforts resulted in ruining the electric motor.
 
Can post a picture of the issue of which you speak? Curious
The lower one came off the car. Note 3 larger holes that mount to the regulator and fourth smaller hole is where the cover encloses the gears. In the upper, new, one the small hole is in a different location. The gear cover wont install and the housing will not mount to the regulator.

20240814_202230.jpg
 
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