Windshield replacement on 1969 Chrysler Town & Country

[Zip]

Hello everyone,

I am preparing to replace my windshield (or rather re-seal my current one) because it leaks. In the 1969 service manual they explain pretty well how this process works and what you need to do, but I did stumble upon one on thing I don't understand.
In the manual they show and write about something called a "spacer dam" (see attached photos). I can't find anything on this nor do I know where to get the part from. Could anyone provide me with information on how it works and what it does?
Thanks!

With kind regards,
Zip Vork

 

[azblackhemi]

I believe they are talking about a hard piece of foam that the windshield sits on to space it so it has an even gap top and bottom. I just installed a back glass and folded up a piece of double sided tape to do the job.

 

[Samplingman]

I just had my windshield done and there are two adjustable spacers at the base. They are made of a metal bracket that screws to the windshield frame and then a wedge of rubber that sits in top to cushion the windshield. Mine were missing on my car along with the windshield so I was able to get them from my ‘73 parts car. Here is a pic of what mine looks like:

Hope that helps.

 

[Zip]

Thanks guys! That’s very helpful!
What kind of adhesive did you use for the installation?

 

[azblackhemi]

3M Auto Glass Urethane Windshield Adhesive, 08693, Medium Viscosity, High-Strength, Fast-Curing, 310 mL/10.5 fl oz Cartridge , Black​

I used this.

 

[bigmoparjeff]

I think that amateur installers are better off using the rope seal instead of the urethane caulking.

It's easier to use, less messy, eliminates the need for the dam, and makes it easier to remove the glass in the future if needed.


I would use the 3/8", not the 5/16" version.

Having a set of these "Handle On Demand" suction cup devices also helps with the job.

Jeff

 

[Samplingman]

Thanks guys! That’s very helpful!
What kind of adhesive did you use for the installation?

I had a professional installer do mine, I wanted the guarantee. He used urethane.

 

[Big_John]

I think that amateur installers are better off using the rope seal instead of the urethane caulking.

It's easier to use, less messy, eliminates the need for the dam, and makes it easier to remove the glass in the future if needed.


I would use the 3/8", not the 5/16" version.


View attachment 700489

Having a set of these "Handle On Demand" suction cup devices also helps with the job.

View attachment 700492




Jeff

^This^

Real easy to work with and very forgiving. And the suction cup handles are worth buying even for one job. ~$25 for a pair on Amazon.

This is what the factory used when your car was assembled. My 2010 Ford Ranger rear window was even mounted with it.

 

[Zip]

I think that amateur installers are better off using the rope seal instead of the urethane caulking.

It's easier to use, less messy, eliminates the need for the dam, and makes it easier to remove the glass in the future if needed.


I would use the 3/8", not the 5/16" version.


View attachment 700489

Having a set of these "Handle On Demand" suction cup devices also helps with the job.

View attachment 700492




Jeff

Thanks for the tips Jeff! I actually ordered one of those rope seals. They told me to use the 5/16” one so I got that one, but it seems a little thin indeed. I’ll follow your advice and get a thicker one.
You just put that stuff on your window and then squeeze it in the right place on the car right? No need for additional adhesives and stuff?

The suction cups are handy too. I actually have a for of them from an earlier project I did so they’ll definitely come in handy again.

 

[bigmoparjeff]

They do recommend a black, brush-on primer for the body side, usually called pinchweld primer. I don't believe it's 100% necessary. I used the primer over fresh paint one time, and it started to dissolve the paint. I would clean the glass with alcohol, then the rope seal gets applied directly to the glass, then you set the glass in place.

Jeff