Elwood - 1968 Fury II 4 door sedan

[volksworld]

couple things...(just found this thread)...I installed the same quartz clock kit as you over 20 yrs ago and it still works fine...I agree with Cbarge about stainless lines, had a rear brake line on my pickup that gave me fits... never again...the transmission lines I got from Inline Tube for my 68 weren't even close... I have a big block so maybe you'll get lucky...wound up getting them from Vans instead and the first set from them was wrong too but after going over pics with their tech guy we found a 67 set that worked and they sent them out no charge and let me keep the others....there is supposed to be a hole in the fender well under the battery that lines up with the drain hole in the battery tray...so what you have there may be rusted a bit larger but don't be like the PO of my car that welded it up completely...fortunately he did a bad enough job that i was able to get the patch off...I'm also curious what the white paneling on your garage walls and ceiling is made of...is that steel? looks great

 

[3175375]

couple things...(just found this thread)...I installed the same quartz clock kit as you over 20 yrs ago and it still works fine...I agree with Cbarge about stainless lines, had a rear brake line on my pickup that gave me fits... never again...the transmission lines I got from Inline Tube for my 68 weren't even close... I have a big block so maybe you'll get lucky...wound up getting them from Vans instead and the first set from them was wrong too but after going over pics with their tech guy we found a 67 set that worked and they sent them out no charge and let me keep the others....there is supposed to be a hole in the fender well under the battery that lines up with the drain hole in the battery tray...so what you have there may be rusted a bit larger but don't be like the PO of my car that welded it up completely...fortunately he did a bad enough job that i was able to get the patch off...I'm also curious what the white paneling on your garage walls and ceiling is made of...is that steel? looks great

I’m installing the inline tube product right now and it appears to fit. Update with pictures forthcoming.

 

[3175375]

I got the inline tube stainless steel lines installed and after I straightened and twisted the line that runs to the aft connection, I was able to get these routed to my satisfaction. The radiator is out for checkup, and I suspect that I may have to adjust the lines some, upon connection to the radiator.

I also got all of the brake lines attached to the distribution block.

I also picked up the necessary fender liner bolts at the local Ace Hardware store. I will probably cut them down for better fitment.

 

[volksworld]

yay glad they fit...on mine the hump on the drivers side was too far back and hit both the chassis and the oil filter

 

[3175375]

yay glad they fit...on mine the hump on the drivers side was too far back and hit both the chassis and the oil filter

Small block here - no clearance issues. Yay!

 

[3175375]

Finally got the new piece of steel welded in. Also tacked in 2 nuts into the fender liner.

I used my Harbor Freight mig welder (without gas) and flux wire.

I plan on cleaning things up tomorrow, and bury it with some matte black rattle can paint.

 

[3175375]

I finished the battery tray mount insert that I replaced. I probably had the power level too high, as I seemed to burn through the original sheet metal. I got it all welded up and as a result of my poor welding skills, had to spend more time grinding down the welds with a right angle grinder and a dremel tool.

Nonetheless, it’s done. It’ll go back into the car next week.

Inside of the fender liner:

Other side:

 

[volksworld]

welding rusty sheet metal is the worst of all scenarios...any rust and the wire won't make good enough contact to arc...so you turn up the amps and procede to blow holes everywhere...usually you need to approach it as a series of quick tack welds with time to cool in between them...you really cant lay a continuous bead at all...i've never used flux coated wire but assume the flux coating would then be another hindrance as the wire wont make electrical contact through it unless its chipped off...C25 gas works much better, blasting surfaces first, and a welder where the heat range and wire speed are adjustable rather than a pre set series of clicks on a dial...glad you got it done

 

[3175375]

welding rusty sheet metal is the worst of all scenarios...any rust and the wire won't make good enough contact to arc...so you turn up the amps and procede to blow holes everywhere...usually you need to approach it as a series of quick tack welds with time to cool in between them...you really cant lay a continuous bead at all...i've never used flux coated wire but assume the flux coating would then be another hindrance as the wire wont make electrical contact through it unless its chipped off...C25 gas works much better, blasting surfaces first, and a welder where the heat range and wire speed are adjustable rather than a pre set series of clicks on a dial...glad you got it done

I ran out of Argon and used flux wire. I ‘learned’ to tack the welds when attaching the sheet metal to the 16 gauge piece that I used.

My sloppy approach ended up with a lot of spatter, which I ground down with a right angle grinder and a dremel tool.

Thanks for the advice!

 

[3175375]

I got the inner fender liner in, but I am struggling with all of the fasteners. I have to drill one out and I presently am trying to get the one aligned in the second picture.
Re-attack tomorrow.

 

[3175375]

I got 3 of the front fasteners in for the inner fender liner as well as the new battery tray. My repair patch worked great.

I discovered 2 shims on the stud into the stub frame, cleaned them up and reinserted them.

I also had to replace 2 of the fasteners including a washer and locknut, as the bolts broke off and I had to knock out the welded in nut.

 

[3175375]

Today, I installed the driver’s side front shock, got the battery mounted, terminated the positive cable and removed the driver’s side front brake hardware and wheel cylinder.

 

[3175375]

I cleaned up some of the brake parts, installed the new wheel cylinder and got the backing plate bolted back up.
I also wire wheeled the rub spots (6 total - 3 on each side), that the brake shoes ride on. Second pic shows the two lower spindle / backing plate nuts with the cotter keys inserted.

Next: reassemble the brakes for this wheel and on to the last one, the driver’s side rear.

 

[3175375]

I finished assembling the driver’s side front wheel. I need to grease the zerk fittings and that corner is done.
The old shoes were torn up pretty bad.

I’m taking a break tomorrow, as I will be replacing the chassis and coach batteries on Bruno, our 2010 Holiday Rambler Endeavor (38’) diesel pusher. All of the batteries are dated from January ‘18 (coach) and January ‘17 (chassis).
I am not frickin’ around and procuring all of the replacements with Interstate brand batteries.
I toyed with AGM or Lithium Ion, but it just doesn’t seem to have a realistic payoff.

We use Bruno less than 10 times a year.

 

[3175375]

I got the front end greased and started disassembly of the driver’s side rear brake. Lots of rust, but the pieces are cleaning up well.

 

[3175375]

Finished assembly of the driver’s side rear and installed the flex hose, mounting bracket and line to the driver’s side.

 

[3175375]

I got the driver’s side rear shock installed. It took some pb blaster soaking and some elbow grease to get the top bolt removed, but after that, it went well.

Here’s a picture of the original front two and rear shocks and the new one.

 

[3175375]

I also got the last brake line to the passenger side rear installed. I will make one more pass over all connections and then it’s time to bleed the brakes!

 

[3175375]

I cleaned out the trunk, replaced the rear side marker light bulbs, and got a broken bolt removed that’s used to secure the front of the outer fender liner.
I had to cut the broken bolt off flush with the nut that’s welded to a bracket on the inside of the fender and drill and tap the hole. Pain in the rear, but it’s done.

It looks like I’ve got a little bit of work to do with the trunk floor pans. 8^O

 

[3175375]

I got the last shock (passenger side rear) installed. I also installed the mini starter and started on replacing the fuel pump, but stopped as the steel line leaving the pump was seized to the fitting. I cleaned up the end with a wire brush and soaked it with Kroil. I may remove the entire line with the pump and try to break it free on the bench.

I also assembled the incinerator and I will have to assemble it where I plan to place it as it’s very heavy!