My Next Victim

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Pulled it out under my solar heat lamp. 104 today so it'll harden up fast!
 
Sorry about the error. For some reason they are not linking on ebodies.org since the last upgrade. I have raised the concern there and I am sure it will be fixed. But in the meantime the videos above are the same but hosted through youtube.
 
To be honest I'm not too disappointed that the original Organisol is no longer available. It was a ***** to spray out here in AZ in the summer. Being lacquer the durability in the hot sun concerned me. Back in 1980 the first car I restored after moving to AZ I used lacquer. When I walked into the paint store that I'm still using 45 years later the guy asked if I was sure i wanted to use lacquer. Having used it with good results for 8 years in NY I said yes! Well I painted it in November and it looked fantastic up until one 118 degree day in June. That one hot day started the lacquer checking and within a month it was cracked everywhere. Had to strip it and redo it.
 
I have personally seen Cody's organasol spray out. It looks amazing and cleans well.

I'm curious what mix and type you use for the organasol.
 
OldWarHorse300 said:
Beautiful! Can you tell us your buffing method or is it trade secret ?
Click to expand...
No secret just a lot of time and effort. First thing I do is while 2-3 coats of clear are recommended I apply 4. This allows me to sand out any and all imperfections plus adds more depth. I color sand using a foam block on flat surfaces starting with 1000 grit. Next I go over it with 1500 and finish it with 3000 on a DA sander. This is done wet with dish soap in the water to make the paper slide. I then start buffing with a wool pad and extra cut compound. Mequires or 3 M both give good results. After all sand scratches are gone I use a less aggressive compound and a foam pad. I never use the most aggressive foam pad because they will burn the paint if you hit a surface with the edge or stay in one spot too long. Next step is a polish with an even less aggressive pad and last is a glaze either with the softest pad or by hand.
 
azblackhemi said:
No secret just a lot of time and effort. First thing I do is while 2-3 coats of clear are recommended I apply 4. This allows me to sand out any and all imperfections plus adds more depth. I color sand using a foam block on flat surfaces starting with 1000 grit. Next I go over it with 1500 and finish it with 3000 on a DA sander. This is done wet with dish soap in the water to make the paper slide. I then start buffing with a wool pad and extra cut compound. Mequires or 3 M both give good results. After all sand scratches are gone I use a less aggressive compound and a foam pad. I never use the most aggressive foam pad because they will burn the paint if you hit a surface with the edge or stay in one spot too long. Next step is a polish with an even less aggressive pad and last is a glaze either with the softest pad or by hand.
Click to expand...
No replacement for elbow grease…
 
azblackhemi said:
No secret just a lot of time and effort. First thing I do is while 2-3 coats of clear are recommended I apply 4. This allows me to sand out any and all imperfections plus adds more depth. I color sand using a foam block on flat surfaces starting with 1000 grit. Next I go over it with 1500 and finish it with 3000 on a DA sander. This is done wet with dish soap in the water to make the paper slide. I then start buffing with a wool pad and extra cut compound. Mequires or 3 M both give good results. After all sand scratches are gone I use a less aggressive compound and a foam pad. I never use the most aggressive foam pad because they will burn the paint if you hit a surface with the edge or stay in one spot too long. Next step is a polish with an even less aggressive pad and last is a glaze either with the softest pad or by hand.
Click to expand...
You obviously know what you're doing when it comes to this. How long does it take you to do the whole car?
 
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