Getting the cracks fixed will not address the possible issues with the RB wheel. Namely the horn switch in the wheel. Which can self-deploy/honk when the interior temps reach a certain level, as the one in my '70 Monaco did . . . before the horn relay crispy-crittered. A new horn relay and it did it again, but this time I unplugged the relay before it cooked.
When I bought the car used in 1975, the rim blow switch was already rock hard and took a lot of pressure to honk the horn. I always liked the 1976 steering wheels that had a more conventional horn switch in them, as a "close match" replacement, personally.
I asked the local dealership service manager about replacing the switch in the wheel. I got dirty looks and comments "We did two of those . . ." in a tone of voice that indicated they did NOT want to do that again. When I later discovered how it was removed/replaced, I would not want to do one either. Others in here might have different experiences in this area.
The reason the cracks exist is that the oils in the plastic evaporate with time, as in "shrink". The normal method, as mentioned, is two-part epoxy to fill the cracks, work it smooth (just like using putty on sheet metal), and then paint with a quality acrylic enamel (several coats).
Just some observations and experiences,
CBODY67
