That would be great, but unfortunately, I don't know anyone in that area.
1969 Imperial progress thread
- Thread starter vdk2010
- Start date
To be honest, after 11 years of doing what I do and working with commercial suppliers overseas and trusting them completely, I never had any problems. I can't say that anymore.
Even 99% of the private people I've worked with have been very nice and helpful.
3175375
Old Man with a Hat
Can someone over here pay a visit to Dave?
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
For $200, you could at least use in until you got the other one back. The only difference seems to be the wood grain on the pistol grip section.
It's a nice looking steering wheel for sure!
However, when I buy it, I also need all the other parts that I sent to D&D such as the pad, horn ring and other "internals".
With shipping and import fees included, buying all that would easily cost $500-$600 for something I already paid $2500 for....
In addition to that, I paid a premium to have it recast to keep it translucent in the first place.
None of this seems right just because D&D is incapable of returning my steering wheel. At that point, that's all I want.
I left Dave a voicemail telling him that I just want my steering wheel back, shipped to my cousind in the US, regardless of its condition.
Hopefully, it's an easy enough task for him to fulfill....
However, when I buy it, I also need all the other parts that I sent to D&D such as the pad, horn ring and other "internals".
With shipping and import fees included, buying all that would easily cost $500-$600 for something I already paid $2500 for....
In addition to that, I paid a premium to have it recast to keep it translucent in the first place.
None of this seems right just because D&D is incapable of returning my steering wheel. At that point, that's all I want.
I left Dave a voicemail telling him that I just want my steering wheel back, shipped to my cousind in the US, regardless of its condition.
Hopefully, it's an easy enough task for him to fulfill....
Unbelievably, the Chinese engine stand was not made well-made enough to be used as intended.
The original red arms were all different lengths and were still too short... So I had to make new ones to mount the engine.
The result was just as I had planned!
The original red arms were all different lengths and were still too short... So I had to make new ones to mount the engine.
The result was just as I had planned!
With the engine stand in good working order, I started preparing and masking all the parts that were going to be painted turquoise.
I punched out 22 mm cardboard discs to mask the head bolt provisions and the spark plug holes on the Trick Flow heads. That worked flawlessly.
Prepping, masking (and building a makeshift paint boots) took me six hours...
I punched out 22 mm cardboard discs to mask the head bolt provisions and the spark plug holes on the Trick Flow heads. That worked flawlessly.
Prepping, masking (and building a makeshift paint boots) took me six hours...
After talking to my painter, he recommended priming the parts to achieve a better paint finish. He mixed me a can of 2K epoxy primer in RAL 6033 so that it wouldn't alter the colour of the final paint.
It's great stuff and nice to paint with.
I applied 2 light coats of this primer.
It's great stuff and nice to paint with.
I applied 2 light coats of this primer.
My painter recommended painting it wet-on-wet so that I wouldn't have to scuff the primer. Three hours after priming, I applied the Bill Hirsch paint. There was a great thread on here about choosing the correct color, since Mopar stopped producing it.
The conclusion in the thread was to use Bill Hirsch Pontiac Turquoise, so that's what I did.
The conclusion in the thread was to use Bill Hirsch Pontiac Turquoise, so that's what I did.
The result is worth all the work. It looks amazing! Unfortunately, the photos does not give the paint justace. In reality, it's waaay darker and more "petrol".
330dTA
Senior Member
Atemberaubend, ganz einfach!
(And the color you have chosen is Chrysler Turquoise, if there ever was such a thing.)
(And the color you have chosen is Chrysler Turquoise, if there ever was such a thing.)
I was pretty nervous for a while because the paint wouldn't dry. After over a week, though, it was finally dry enough to start bolting things to the short block.
The first part I bolted on was the oil pump.
The original pump was still in great condition, so I reused it.
I media blasted the parts, and then soaked them in an ultrasonic cleaner to remove all the leftover blasting media.
Then, to improve oil flow, I ground and smoothed all the sharp edges on the oil ports.
With the zinc-plated original hardware and the freshly painted housing, I was finally ready to rebuild it with fresh gaskets. Then, I mounted it to the block.
The first part I bolted on was the oil pump.
The original pump was still in great condition, so I reused it.
I media blasted the parts, and then soaked them in an ultrasonic cleaner to remove all the leftover blasting media.
Then, to improve oil flow, I ground and smoothed all the sharp edges on the oil ports.
With the zinc-plated original hardware and the freshly painted housing, I was finally ready to rebuild it with fresh gaskets. Then, I mounted it to the block.
Next was the intake manifold. Unfortunately, it has to wait to be mounted, because I still don't have the intermediate shaft. I'll bring that with me when I go on vacation to the US in two weeks.
More about mounting it to the engine when I'm back home.
However, I already glued new ARP carb studs in with Loctite and installed the vacuum port "tree.", though.
More about mounting it to the engine when I'm back home.
However, I already glued new ARP carb studs in with Loctite and installed the vacuum port "tree.", though.
But wait, there's more!
Next were the engine mounts.
They were freshly painted and assembled with all new hardware. Only the torque strap and its hardware were zinc-plated and reused.
The last thing I did yesterday was install a brand new NOS oil pressure sending unit and oil pressure switch.
Next were the engine mounts.
They were freshly painted and assembled with all new hardware. Only the torque strap and its hardware were zinc-plated and reused.
The last thing I did yesterday was install a brand new NOS oil pressure sending unit and oil pressure switch.
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I used the same paint on my 440. Love it except I have to pull the intake again. I did not use the intake pan that blocks off the exhaust ports that go through the intake and after 200 miles my intake is black with crumbling black paint. Live and learn I guess
That's right; no paint can withstand exhaust temperatures. Fortunately, my aluminum heads don't have provisions for an exhaust crossover.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
I know you are doing some details a little different, but the breather was black from the factory and the vacuum nipple was natural.
Anyway, good job.
Alan
Anyway, good job.
Alan
Yes, I know, and all the bolts were painted with the engine. I prefer it with a few more accents!
I don't think it was the best idea to media blast the internal surfaces of the pump. That should be a machined surface for the rotors and not a rough surface like I see in the pics.
Somewhere, in the manufacturing drawings for those parts, there would have been a spec for surface finish and while I don't know what that is, I'll say that the media finished surfaces exceed that spec by a lot. I've had quite a few oil pumps apart over the years. The cover is usually a ground surface for example. When the surfaces get scored or otherwise worn, you start to lose pressure. IMHO, the rough surface will do the same.
You are spending a lot of time and money to get this car as perfect as you can. While the pump will probably work, I don't think it will work as well as it could or as long as it should.
Your car though... and your decision. I just know I wouldn't run it and I've built a few engines over the years.
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