3175375
Old Man with a Hat
I believe that you’re going to pleased with the shift kit. I have installed two in my MoPars and a couple of Ford kits and like the improvement.
1969 Imperial progress thread
- Thread starter vdk2010
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2010
- Messages
- 28,542
- Reaction score
- 28,379
Impeccable!
ceebuddy
Senior Member
Some truly excellent work!
73Coupe
Senior Member
Intriguing note about the Torlon check balls. I hadn't heard of this material before. more ductile = better sealing = less damage.
Torlon Balls and Roller Bearings - Drake Plastics
Torlon Balls and Roller Bearings - Drake Plastics
Progress was made on the transmission last week again.
Next, I planned to reassemble the rear clutch for good. However, I found some bad news regarding the rear piston retainer...
I briefly inspected it while cleaning it and thought it was just discoloration. But, while polishing the surface, I discovered that it was actually pretty severe rust pitting...
Fortunately, A&A was able to provide me with a nice, reconditioned one. It's on the way with the other parts!
I assembled it anyway, since checking for clearances works with this damaged part as well.
My original Belleville spring was in perfect condition, so no more new parts were needed there!
Next, I planned to reassemble the rear clutch for good. However, I found some bad news regarding the rear piston retainer...
I briefly inspected it while cleaning it and thought it was just discoloration. But, while polishing the surface, I discovered that it was actually pretty severe rust pitting...
Fortunately, A&A was able to provide me with a nice, reconditioned one. It's on the way with the other parts!
I assembled it anyway, since checking for clearances works with this damaged part as well.
My original Belleville spring was in perfect condition, so no more new parts were needed there!
Next was the planetary gear train and output shaft.
The rear planetary gear assembly and annulus were badly rusted, so I replaced them with used parts in good condition.
The rest of the parts were in mint condition! Everything went back together with new bearings and thrust washers.
The FSM calls for .010 to .037 inches of planetary assembly end play clearance. Since I ended up on the upper end of the scale, I added two thrust washer shims, to achieve the desired clearance of .022 inches, which is almost exactly halfway between the minimum and maximum.
The rear planetary gear assembly and annulus were badly rusted, so I replaced them with used parts in good condition.
The rest of the parts were in mint condition! Everything went back together with new bearings and thrust washers.
The FSM calls for .010 to .037 inches of planetary assembly end play clearance. Since I ended up on the upper end of the scale, I added two thrust washer shims, to achieve the desired clearance of .022 inches, which is almost exactly halfway between the minimum and maximum.
Again, rusty parts, so I replaced the original Sprag and inner race with a new, bolt-in parts from A&A.
I also replaced the rollers and springs, of course.
Let me tell you, pretty annoying process to install the inner race!
I also replaced the rollers and springs, of course.
Let me tell you, pretty annoying process to install the inner race!
On the other hand, putting the governor and output shaft back together was quite satisfying.
A new output shaft bearing is coming, so this used one is only there for decoration purposes. ;)
A new output shaft bearing is coming, so this used one is only there for decoration purposes. ;)
3175375
Old Man with a Hat
Great work and it must be frustrating that the add on costs (shipping , etc) of parts from A&A but I suspect it’s a rounding error.
Kickdown Servo went into the case next.
Since I had to weld a nut to the original plug for the lever shaft to get it out, I had to replace it.
Since I had to weld a nut to the original plug for the lever shaft to get it out, I had to replace it.
Then the Low and Reverse Servo and its lever.
And finally, for not, until my parts arrive, I installed the rest of the bolt-on parts onto the case.
New seals, bushings, plug, line fittings and I assembled the speedometer gear assembly for now.
New seals, bushings, plug, line fittings and I assembled the speedometer gear assembly for now.
Unfortunately, it's more than that. It hurts a little less, though, because a friend of mine was ordering parts from A&A, too, and I was able to add my parts to his order.
Still, it cost a lot of money again.
JJ300
Active Member
Beautiful, just Beautiful....
73Coupe
Senior Member
There is an optical illusion going on in this photo below....
Can anyone explain how the gear teeth appear to be both above and below the upper outer rim of the clutch housing?
I thought the same, but it's "just" one of the notches in the drum ;)
My engine is finally back in my shop again!
My initial plan was to reuse the OEM stamped steel rocker arms because they would have been fine for my application. They would have worked with the mild cam I use, and I'm not planning to rev the engine too high.
However, while speaking with a TrickFlow technician about another matter recently, he mentioned that the heads are not designed for use with non-roller rockers. He said that the valve guide material is too soft for that and would quickly fail due to the sideload produced by non-roller rockers.
My primary goal has always been to use stock valve covers because I don't like the look of aluminum ones on my Imperial. All aluminum rocker systems are very tall and would definitely not fit under the stock valve covers. The TrickFlow technician said there is a small chance cast steel ones would fit because my cam does not have that much lift.
On the other hand, he told me that the cast ones would probably hit the valve spring retainers since the springs are slightly too wide for the cast rocker arms. I was disappointed that the nice parts wouldn't work well together, but I had to make a decision.
I finally took the plunge and bought a set of COMP Cams Pro Magnum Shaft Mount Roller Rocker Arms (1621-16) and a set of Trick Flow Rocker Arm Shaft Studs, in combination with a set of COMP Cams Evolution Series Hydraulic Roller Lifters (89211-16).
Additionally, I ordered a set of 3/8-inch billet valve cover spacers on eBay, just to be safe. I think they're a better-looking solution than using different valve covers. However, I won't install them unless necessary.
A few weeks passed, all the parts arrived, and I was excited to install them. I have to admit, they look much nicer than the OEM parts.
My joy was short-lived because I quickly realized that nothing fit out of the box. The new rocker arms were hitting the spring retainers, and even worse, almost all of the hold-downs for the rocker shaft were too wide to fit between the rocker arms.
After discussing everything with my engine builder, he recommended using valve lash caps and rocker shaft shims to raise the rocker shafts by about .040", all while maintaining the valve train geometry. I ordered COMP Cams lash caps (621-16) and a variety of rocker shaft shims. Then, I loaded up the engine and took it back to the engine builder.
A few weeks later, he finished, so I went to pick up my engine. When I arrived, he told me that he had gotten everything working without using any of the shims or lash caps. Everything worked out just fine; he only had to mill down almost all of the hold-downs for the rocker shaft. Some of them by up to .025"!
FINALLY, I have my engine back, and it's DONE!
That makes me very happy!
However, it's bittersweet because this whole detour cost me about €2,500, including shipping, import fees, and labor costs.
This was an unplanned expense, and I must admit it hurts quite a bit right now.
My initial plan was to reuse the OEM stamped steel rocker arms because they would have been fine for my application. They would have worked with the mild cam I use, and I'm not planning to rev the engine too high.
However, while speaking with a TrickFlow technician about another matter recently, he mentioned that the heads are not designed for use with non-roller rockers. He said that the valve guide material is too soft for that and would quickly fail due to the sideload produced by non-roller rockers.
My primary goal has always been to use stock valve covers because I don't like the look of aluminum ones on my Imperial. All aluminum rocker systems are very tall and would definitely not fit under the stock valve covers. The TrickFlow technician said there is a small chance cast steel ones would fit because my cam does not have that much lift.
On the other hand, he told me that the cast ones would probably hit the valve spring retainers since the springs are slightly too wide for the cast rocker arms. I was disappointed that the nice parts wouldn't work well together, but I had to make a decision.
I finally took the plunge and bought a set of COMP Cams Pro Magnum Shaft Mount Roller Rocker Arms (1621-16) and a set of Trick Flow Rocker Arm Shaft Studs, in combination with a set of COMP Cams Evolution Series Hydraulic Roller Lifters (89211-16).
Additionally, I ordered a set of 3/8-inch billet valve cover spacers on eBay, just to be safe. I think they're a better-looking solution than using different valve covers. However, I won't install them unless necessary.
A few weeks passed, all the parts arrived, and I was excited to install them. I have to admit, they look much nicer than the OEM parts.
My joy was short-lived because I quickly realized that nothing fit out of the box. The new rocker arms were hitting the spring retainers, and even worse, almost all of the hold-downs for the rocker shaft were too wide to fit between the rocker arms.
After discussing everything with my engine builder, he recommended using valve lash caps and rocker shaft shims to raise the rocker shafts by about .040", all while maintaining the valve train geometry. I ordered COMP Cams lash caps (621-16) and a variety of rocker shaft shims. Then, I loaded up the engine and took it back to the engine builder.
A few weeks later, he finished, so I went to pick up my engine. When I arrived, he told me that he had gotten everything working without using any of the shims or lash caps. Everything worked out just fine; he only had to mill down almost all of the hold-downs for the rocker shaft. Some of them by up to .025"!
FINALLY, I have my engine back, and it's DONE!
That makes me very happy!However, it's bittersweet because this whole detour cost me about €2,500, including shipping, import fees, and labor costs.
This was an unplanned expense, and I must admit it hurts quite a bit right now.
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2010
- Messages
- 28,542
- Reaction score
- 28,379
I’m glad you’re happy but yet another 
in the iron head column for me!
in the iron head column for me!
3175375
Old Man with a Hat
I’m glad that the engine configuration has been worked out. It looks great!
You might want to do what I do regarding projects and toss all financial records (receipts, bills, credit card statements, etc). Keeping those things only led to sadness for myself. ;^)
You might want to do what I do regarding projects and toss all financial records (receipts, bills, credit card statements, etc). Keeping those things only led to sadness for myself. ;^)
I can absolutely understand why someone would want to keep everything original and stock. Even down to bolt manufacturer and factory paint markings. However, I prefer a combination of modern and old technology and aesthetics.I’m glad you’re happy but yet another
I wanted a modernized interpretation of a 440 that looked mostly stock. It cost me a premium, and I paid it. But the price still hurts when I think about it. I could have bought a nice survivor car for the price of the engine alone.
Similar threads
