power brakes

[JD poly]

Has anyone converted to power brakes by adding booster and dual master cylinder with stock drums. 1966 Fury III.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

It's not challenging - one should swap out the pedal assembly too because the leverage ratio for a manual pedal assembly is much greater, however I have heard that it's just fine using a manual pedal with a booster.

I have no personal experience with the retrofit, but everything if sourced correctly will simply bolt up.

 

[JD poly]

Thanks, would you think aftermarket or salvage yard source.

 

[Davea Lux]

Thanks, would you think aftermarket or salvage yard source.

The correct booster would be a Midland Ross unit. That is the one with the lock ring around the outside. If your salvage yard has one, grab the mounting plate and the pedal while you are at it. You can use the '67 master cylinder which will bolt on the '66 mount plate. You will also need to source the '67 distribution block and fabricate the brake lines from the master cylinder to the distribution block. You would also want to have the salvage yard booster rebuilt.

Dave

 

[mobileparts]

X 2 on what Davea ^^^ indicated ^^^ —- all of that has to be salvage yard ONLY —-
Because the ONLY thing on that list that is available N E W is the Dual Master Cylinder…..

 

[volksworld]

Stephens Performance has a Mopar salvage yard in Alabama...you may be able to source what you need there

 

[volksworld]

The back plate and pedal assembly are different...here you can see the 4 holes where the booster bolts on

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

The back plate and pedal assembly are different...here you can see the 4 holes where the booster bolts onView attachment 746915

Correct - I neglected to say that there is a backing plate that will be part of the swap - one should get that plate as well as the power brake pedal assembly.

 

[Sixpactogo]

I removed a Power brake booster, backing plate and underdash linkage from a 66 Chrysler Newport that I parted out and swapped it in my 65 Sport Fury. I bought a new dual bowl master for a 72 or newer C body drum brakes and made new lines myself. Easy Peasy. It has been working great for the past 20 years or more.
Note: I was able to test the booster before I removed it and it was working fine. If you cannot test it, you may want to have it rebuilt before installing it.
If you decide to upgrade to front disc's, you need to upgrade to a dual diaphragm booster since disc's require twice as much boost as do the drums.

 

[volksworld]

not to overly complicate your search but I've been running a single diaphram Midland (drum) booster with discs for over 20 years

 

[Sixpactogo]

not to overly complicate your search but I've been running a single diaphram Midland (drum) booster with discs for over 20 years

Is it a 10" single diaphragm? From my research, a single 8" booster will provide 402 lbs of force. Enough for drum brakes. With disc brakes requiring almost double, a single 10" booster would provide 785 lbs of force. Probably enough for discs.

 

[volksworld]

its a 9 1/2...its kinda an apples and oranges deal....original budd style discs on slabsides used 4 piston calipers, a larger diameter master (1 1/8) for the extra volume and a dual diaphragm for the extra force to push it....the 71/73 single piston calipers used a smaller diameter master (1 1/32) and it seems that you can get away with the single diaphragm booster....it's not a "touch it and your head hits the windshield", it just feels like modern power brakes...no, I've never done the math on the amount of fluid moved by the early vs late system....the drum brake dual master would be a 1 inch bore....on a manual pedal the distance from where the pedal pivots to where the rod to the master attaches is a little over 2 inches...on a power pedal its about 6 inches, so the leverage is completely different