Looking for suggestions....

[Snotty]

OK, my Newport is running again, but Alternator is still not charging.

I repaired the broken fusible link from the problem in October. Car ran again but was discharging.

Replaced the Voltage Regulator, as well as the power steering pressure line. (That was where my PS leak was.) Car would turn over but not start. I ran the battery down cranking it.

Recharged the battery. Made sure all connections were on and tight that I had touched or changed. Poured some fuel into the carburetor this time. (Been sitting a while.) Car fired right up!! (I cranked it for a bit before pouring in gas to lube the motor a bit.) Yay!!

Still discharging!

My thinking is, time for a new alternator. Something must have fried that night I got towed home.

Your thoughts?

Thanks

 

[Davea Lux]

Take a test light and be sure there is power to the outlet lug on the alternator. If you have power, you know the circuit is good. Now remove the field connector from the alternator. Start the car and run a lead from the battery positive cable to the field terminal. If the alternator is still working, you should now have full charge. If you still have nothing, the alternator is dead. If your car has two field terminals ('70 and later) hook one of the two field terminals to ground, does not matter which one. And proceed with the test with the other field terminal hooked to the battery. This test bypasses the regulator so do not leave the car running too long as you can overcharge the battery. Unhook the test lead from the battery when you turn the car off.
Good luck.

Dave

 

[Big_John]

If your car has two field terminals ('70 and later) hook one of the two field terminals to ground, does not matter which one.

It does matter. You have to disconnect the field wire that runs to the regulator (green) and ground the field connection that it was connected to. The field wire that runs to power needs to be hooked up.

 

[Davea Lux]

It does matter. You have to disconnect the field wire that runs to the regulator (green) and ground the field connection that it was connected to. The field wire that runs to power needs to be hooked up.

The field will energize as long as one field terminal is hooked to ground and one is hooked to power. That supplies a completed circuit. You are correct that both terminals should be disconnected from the vehicle wiring prior to doing the test.

Dave

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Simple alternator functioning test (assuming all else is good):

With the car running, and take care not to get anything caught in the belt(s), put a screw driver to the rear bearing cover of the alternator. If it's magnetized and pulls on the tip of the screw driver, it's charging.

If at that poing you are not getting that charge to the battery, then there's an issue in that circuit.

 

[Snotty]

Started it (and the Gremlin) up today. (If I start them every day they fire instantly.) While idling I noted the interior light and the E-Brake warning light flicker twice. Both times the motor hesitated, like it was shutting off.

???

Said to my wife, "I have a problem."

 

[Davea Lux]

Those are both circuits that are activated by supplying a ground. Check your ground connection to the battery and where it hooks to the block. There is also a ground strap to the body, usually from the engine to the firewall, be sure that is also tight. Was the interior light and the park brake light on when they flickered or did they come on randomly?

Dave

 

[Snotty]

Those are both circuits that are activated by supplying a ground. Check your ground connection to the battery and where it hooks to the block. There is also a ground strap to the body, usually from the engine to the firewall, be sure that is also tight. Was the interior light and the park brake light on when they flickered or did they come on randomly?

Dave

They were on. I had the door open and the brake on.

I checked the grounds at the battery yesterday. Have not checked the one ion the lower subframe.