Engine serial number on 440

JD's American car

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I need to locate the engine serial number for the UK registration. Internet searches say it's on a flat plate on the drivers side behind the AC compressor.

Is this the correct location?

I can't seem to make much out, I have done some engine cleaning, so tomorrow I can have another investigation.

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There is an engine serial number prior to 68 but it is hard to get to or see when the engine is in the car. It simply tells you what date the engine was assembled and has nothing to do with a specific installation in a specific car.

Vehicle serial numbers are not on engines prior to 68.

For 1968, the serial number MAY BE stamped on the block and automatic transmission near the oil sending unit. 1968 Stampings are inconsistent and vary by application, time of year and plant.

For 69 and later, the VIN is stamped on a pad on the passengers side. Early stampings include the full VIN. The full VIN was phased out around January (varies by plant) and includes only the year, plant and six digit number matching the VIN

For 70 and later, you will find the model year, the year and a six digit number that matches the VIN.

The number on the pad at the front of the engine relates to when the engine was assembled, not to a specific car.

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C 440 is a 1967 block and will not normally have a VIN number stamped on it as the VIN number system on engines did not start until '68. If the vehicle is a '67 this is probably the correct engine. You should check the build sheet and the build tag to be sure the car came with a 440.

Dave
 
The C440 shows it's a 1967 engine block.

C 440 is a 1967 block and will not normally have a VIN number stamped on it as the VIN number system on engines did not start until '68. If the vehicle is a '67 this is probably the correct engine. You should check the build sheet and the build tag to be sure the car came with a 440.

Dave

Wow, it's a 1973 car. So the engine could have been swapped at some time? Thanks for that.
 
There is an engine serial number prior to 68 but it is hard to get to or see when the engine is in the car. It simply tells you what date the engine was assembled and has nothing to do with a specific installation in a specific car.

Vehicle serial numbers are not on engines prior to 68.

For 1968, the serial number MAY BE stamped on the block and automatic transmission near the oil sending unit. 1968 Stampings are inconsistent and vary by application, time of year and plant.

For 69 and later, the VIN is stamped on a pad on the passengers side. Early stampings include the full VIN. The full VIN was phased out around January (varies by plant) and includes only the year, plant and six digit number matching the VIN

For 70 and later, you will find the model year, the year and a six digit number that matches the VIN.

The number on the pad at the front of the engine relates to when the engine was assembled, not to a specific car.

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Thanks so much.. I will have to have a good look in case there is something there.
 
Are they "defining the car" by the engine number only or is that information more for theft recovery issues?

The B/RB pads on the front of the block are more for block identity and machining information (which is decoded and explained in the FSM) than anything else. Nothing related to VIN usually. Still, for general principles, supply them with copies of the pictures of it and other numbers on your block. I would think pictures of the casting date and casting number, with "the clock" might be helpful in possible theft recovery issues?

Perhaps they have some "tag" they can affix to the engine block for ID purposes in their computer system?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
It's definitely not a 73 engine. Looks like
10-19-66 ?

I would love to know it's history.
No serial number. I will make one up and put it on a copper plaque...

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What is that wheel thingy connected to the exhaust manifold?

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Counterweight for the exhaust manifold heat crossover.

There is a thermostat spring controlled flapper valve in the exhaust manifold that blocks the exhaust and forces it up to the intake manifold. That heats the intake for better performance when cold.

Make sure it still turns freely and springs back.

If it doesn't move, you need to make sure the valve is open.
 
It's definitely not a 73 engine. Looks like
10-19-66 ?

I would love to know it's history.
No serial number. I will make one up and put it on a copper plaque...

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The PROBLEM with configuring your own "number" is that, although in the best intentions, it could be interpreted as otherwise. One time I saw a metal tag that was affixed by Chrysler to a warranty replacement short block which stated the block in the car had been replaced under warranty.

The UK operatives SHOULD have a remedy to such a situation as "engine swaps" as to motor numbers in their existing statutes. You can probably find them online somewhere.

For example, in TX, when the vehicle was defined by the Motor Number, in a time before VINs were used, if an owner swapped an engine from a salvage yard into their existing vehicle, they were supposed to fill out and file with the State official paperwork that this had been done.

In the 1980s, I was desiring a GMC 228 for my father's pickup truck. I found such an ad in a local bargain newspaper. Went and got it. The seller was going to put a small block Chevy in the GMC he had. No big deal, it seemed, until he went to register the truck (with the V-8 in it) and discovered the additional paperwork reflecting a Motor Swap. He had to file the paperwork in order to get a title for the truck so he could drive it on the streets!

As for "street rods" or "built vehicles", the State will issue its own VIN for the vehicle, for titling purposes and such. AND affix such ID to the vehicle.

Check their stated codes on vehicle registration and how to proceed might be hidden in there, I suspect. Your's is NOT the first car of that sort that has been driven on UK roads. Finding an registration office clerk that is aware of these things, OR can find them, is needed. They might want to "lay eyes" on your vehicle, too.

CBODY67
 
The PROBLEM with configuring your own "number" is that, although in the best intentions, it could be interpreted as otherwise. One time I saw a metal tag that was affixed by Chrysler to a warranty replacement short block which stated the block in the car had been replaced under warranty.

The UK operatives SHOULD have a remedy to such a situation as "engine swaps" as to motor numbers in their existing statutes. You can probably find them online somewhere.

For example, in TX, when the vehicle was defined by the Motor Number, in a time before VINs were used, if an owner swapped an engine from a salvage yard into their existing vehicle, they were supposed to fill out and file with the State official paperwork that this had been done.

In the 1980s, I was desiring a GMC 228 for my father's pickup truck. I found such an ad in a local bargain newspaper. Went and got it. The seller was going to put a small block Chevy in the GMC he had. No big deal, it seemed, until he went to register the truck (with the V-8 in it) and discovered the additional paperwork reflecting a Motor Swap. He had to file the paperwork in order to get a title for the truck so he could drive it on the streets!

As for "street rods" or "built vehicles", the State will issue its own VIN for the vehicle, for titling purposes and such. AND affix such ID to the vehicle.

Check their stated codes on vehicle registration and how to proceed might be hidden in there, I suspect. Your's is NOT the first car of that sort that has been driven on UK roads. Finding an registration office clerk that is aware of these things, OR can find them, is needed. They might want to "lay eyes" on your vehicle, too.

CBODY67
So I got the registration documents and they have put the engine number as 'NOT KNOWN' Your advice was the right one. Now I can get the plates made and take it out on the road for its first drive..:)
They have recorded it as a Chrysler coupe 2 door... didn't put it down as an Imperial or LeBaron..
 
Some news, I got the car into the local garage/test station for a safety check before an MOT. (UK's annual vehicle check- not required on 40+ year old cars but cars must be kept roadworthy). All it needs are rear shock absorbers and repair a corroded brake pipe.

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