Carmine
Old Man with a Hat
I can't believe so many people are just telling you to throw parts at this (not only in an era of junk aftermarket parts, but also introducing potential new problems). What is this? Facebook?
Backfiring through the carb is a sign you are lean, (fuel issue) backfiring through the muffler means raw fuel in the tailpipe (an ignition issue).
Keep a can of starting fluid with you (do they sell that in Florida?) Get it warmed up on a backroad. If it stalls, shoot some in the carb. If it fires, you have fuel shortage... Vapor lock.
if it doesn't fire, pull a sparkplug wire and use an extra spark plug, hold it on a ground and see if you are sparking across the gap. If no, see if you have spark from the coil by removing the wire at the distributor end and hold it 1/4" from a ground. No spark? Insert paper clip into the two female leads of the ballast wire (don't let the paper clip touch metal). Spark? Ballast resistor with a small break affected by heat. No spark? Could be the coil.
In other words, there are diagnostic process for all of these problems. None are complicated or cost more than $5 for the starting fluid.
My "guess", which is all anyone else is doing, is that you have a fuel-boil/vapor lock issue.
Backfiring through the carb is a sign you are lean, (fuel issue) backfiring through the muffler means raw fuel in the tailpipe (an ignition issue).
Keep a can of starting fluid with you (do they sell that in Florida?) Get it warmed up on a backroad. If it stalls, shoot some in the carb. If it fires, you have fuel shortage... Vapor lock.
if it doesn't fire, pull a sparkplug wire and use an extra spark plug, hold it on a ground and see if you are sparking across the gap. If no, see if you have spark from the coil by removing the wire at the distributor end and hold it 1/4" from a ground. No spark? Insert paper clip into the two female leads of the ballast wire (don't let the paper clip touch metal). Spark? Ballast resistor with a small break affected by heat. No spark? Could be the coil.
In other words, there are diagnostic process for all of these problems. None are complicated or cost more than $5 for the starting fluid.
My "guess", which is all anyone else is doing, is that you have a fuel-boil/vapor lock issue.















