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okay. i was under the assumption that the engine was fresh and that it had been hot tanked. running it on the road is good proof. with any normal system, fans aren't necessary at road speed. my opinion, the best fan is a seven blade solid mount with a shroud.

ouch. not good. the splines would have to be twisted. when you pulled the nut back off, was the pinion topped out in the yoke? i honestly don't know how much torque it takes to crush a sleeve. it's not something we measure. all that matters is the preload torque. it takes a lot to crush a...

out of curiosity, what kind of crap came out? seems to be that everything is new or refreshed.

looks like the radiator is taking the heat out of the coolant. if the air coming off the cooling fans is hot, then that's where the heat is going. if you could run it with the radiator cap off, you could watch the coolant flow.

don't worry about it. tighten it 'till there's no more slack then tighten it more for the preload (rotational torque). the spec. for the preload might be with no pinion seal installed. if that's the case then your crushing the sleeve to attain the correct preload then taking it back apart again...

if you have a good volt meter, check the voltage at the battery with the engine running. if you don't have a decent voltmeter then you should get one. @halifaxhops has been selling some excellent commercial grade equipment.

wal-mart battery? the quality of all batteries has gone right to **** just like everything else. wouldn't surprise me at all that the battery is just junk.

i'd go with factory because they were used on a vehicle fleet that counts in the millions of vehicles. this would mean billions of vehicle miles with few failures. i don't argue with success. buy quality bearings and learn how to install them correctly.

no. as for the brakes, probably just remove the spreader bar for the e-brake if even that. four nuts on the hold down plates and yank 'em out! this was a good recent axle thread with lots of pictures and some great suggestions that seems to have worked out successfully: Axle Leaking

you did a gold standard level thread on overhauling one of these rears. he'd be better off consulting that than the book.

nope, not normal. one bad axle bearing can make both axles loose. preload adjuster on the right axle sets the preload for both.

thirty six years ago, when i got my newport, i had zero dollars but could weld and had access to a facility. the car was rotten to the window sills including the sub-frame and frame under the trunk. it was scrap. i traded some labor for it. still have it today. everybody's situation is...

$3500 cash today and your both doing good.

not soon. RBC Capital Markets Predicts More Weakness for U.S. Gasoline Cracks -- OPIS

price of gas went no where.

should be a hell of a lot cheaper.

and that was while the jumper was connected. and all the while the jumper was connected? the jumper replicates what the voltage regulator would do up to doing exactly what the jumper is doing: full fielding the alternator. the voltage regulator on it's own really should have been able to...

what? for this one failure? the evidence overall says otherwise. there's an area where you're competent where few others are.

that's the sad part. you did everything right. what's the lesson? i think of your international. yank it out of a barn, fire it up, have fun.

the numbers have gone out the window. if it could be made to yard drive/drive on to someones trailer at no cost, that would be best. that new cam has to be junk. i remember looking at the prices. oof! this thing is so far underwater it's sunk.