You be the judge.

SixtySixFury3

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Checkout the video with the different temps on my radiator. The upper half is significantly hotter than the bottom. Gauge in the car hit 230, the T/stat housing and surrounding areas were all 229ish. Everything is new. Only thing I can think of is a clog in the radiator. How? It’s beyond me.

Radiator hot up top, way lower temp lower half. Temp gauge hit 230. Ideas?


Check it out.
 
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looks like the radiator is taking the heat out of the coolant. if the air coming off the cooling fans is hot, then that's where the heat is going. if you could run it with the radiator cap off, you could watch the coolant flow.
 
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Was the engine running during this video? If not, I presume it was just before you took the video?

Do you get similar results (160's at the bottom, 200+ at the top) when the engine is running? What's the fan? Direct drive off the water pump, or does it have a clutch, or is it electric?

What is the t-stat temp? 195 or 180? I'd change the tstat to 180. If that's what you have, pull it out and put it on a stove in a pot of water and heat it, with a good thermometer in the pot, see how it behaves.
 
Was the engine running during this video? If not, I presume it was just before you took the video?

Do you get similar results (160's at the bottom, 200+ at the top) when the engine is running? What's the fan? Direct drive off the water pump, or does it have a clutch, or is it electric?

What is the t-stat temp? 195 or 180? I'd change the tstat to 180. If that's what you have, pull it out and put it on a stove in a pot of water and heat it, with a good thermometer in the pot, see how it behaves.
Yes, just shut it off, brand new 185 T/stat with jingle pin. The radiator is a new 4 core Alloywork with shrouded dual 10” electric fans. They pull real good too. 1.3 radiator cap came with it. I’m guessing a flow issue is the root of it. Very easy to just flush it out. See what happens. Those darn cast iron heads and blocks can break chunks of crap off and clog the radiator up, so I’ve been told.
 
looks like the radiator is taking the heat out of the coolant. if the air coming off the cooling fans is hot, then that's where the heat is going. if you could run it with the radiator cap off, you could watch the coolant flow.
Can’t see flow, yes the air off the fans is definitely hot.
 
What size radiator? 22" or 26"? It's doing it's job removing heat from the coolant. What engine?
 
If you think it's flow, then before you flush it, pull the t-stat and then run the engine without a t-stat. You'll know soon enough if you have a flow problem.
 
Did you replace the water pump housing? I remember guy's talking about aftermarket water pump housings that had poorly drilled passages causing restrictions.
 
I've seen the impeller slip on the shaft in the pump itself "brand new unit" I agree with MoPar Man, pull the upper hose off the rad with no t-stat and start the car. It won't take long to see whats happening.
 
Heat rises, explained.
That's why coolant from hot engine goes in top hose, even on a cross flow top hose is hot hose.
Add some initial timing and richen the idle circuit a smidge and it will be fine 230 on a pressurized system is not to bad just needs a little tweaking.
 
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Did you replace the water pump housing? I remember guy's talking about aftermarket water pump housings that had poorly drilled passages causing restrictions.
No, it’s the original.
Heat rises, explained.
That's why coolant from hot engine goes in top hose, even on a cross flow top hose is hot hose.
Add some initial timing and richen the idle circuit a smidge and it will be fine 230 on a pressurized system is not too bad just needs a little tweaking.
I took it back to 16 BTC and about 36 total timing. I also just flushed it. All kinds of crap came out. That should help. Thanks for the assistance. Have a great evening.
 
out of curiosity, what kind of crap came out? seems to be that everything is new or refreshed.
Looked like chunks of rust and maybe even some sealant. I think a little too much sealant was used on the exhaust manifold bolt, just a guess. Either way, I flushed it and cleared it all up. It idled fine, holding at 190. However, Im not fooled, I have to run it out in the sun and for a while to see what the truth is. If it still ends up running hot, I am switching fans. I have heard their fans suck I'll switch to two Spal fans.
 
okay. i was under the assumption that the engine was fresh and that it had been hot tanked. running it on the road is good proof. with any normal system, fans aren't necessary at road speed. my opinion, the best fan is a seven blade solid mount with a shroud.
 
okay. i was under the assumption that the engine was fresh and that it had been hot tanked. running it on the road is good proof. with any normal system, fans aren't necessary at road speed. my opinion, the best fan is a seven blade solid mount with a shroud.
You’re right, it should have been hot tanked. The machine shop clearly didn’t do that. Can’t trust anyone these days. Overall, the motor runs strong no complaints with that. Next time I’ll just buy a Blueprint crate motor and be done with the monkey business.
 
unfortunately the old school "hot tank" filled with boiling caustic toxic waste no longer exists in the industry...what's commonly used now are hot water wash cabinets (basically overgrown dishwashers) or others that bake the block to remove the grease ( basically self cleaning oven ) and neither one has the ability to dissolve rust
 
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