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Funny story, my uncle purchased a 67 New Yorker with the TNT 440 in Nebraska, back in the '70s. He told me the first time he floored it, it scared him so much, he swore he would "never do that again" a year later, he was passing a car and miss-judged the distance and stood on it, he was amazed...

Same issue with a 742 and Dana Power lock. it took 2 bottles of additive, but it worked smoothly after that. I ran that diff with slicks and a 440 6bbl running 12 flat, worked perfectly.

A lot of your questions are dependent on the equipment that is installed. Cap, rotor, coil and plug wires are dependent on the distributor. if you are running the normal MoPar non lean burn distributor, the part numbers are the same as LB. plugs are same as LB, gap .035. timing, start at 38°...

I'm not super familiar with this 2bbl, but (correct me if I'm wrong) the accelerator pump shaft looks like it is sticking out too much. With the motor off and warm, pull the air cleaner off and open the throttle a little while looking in the carb, see if there is a stream of fuel coming out of...

If you use an overdrive trans, 3.23 won't work well, you will have to be going 90 to use OD. My $.02

I remember installing it on my '66, that sounds very familiar!

The switch I bought is GM P/N 73-01993624, it fits my 1966 Monaco tilt, other years, I don't know

Being rich at idle sounds like the float level is higher than it should be, maybe dripping out of the booster. add a vacuum leak and it's an un-tunable situation. Do you have another carb you can try? My $.02

the big wire should run directly to the battery. If the alternator output is connected to any wire that normally doesn't have power on it when the ignition is shut off, the power from the alternator will feed the ignition system, keeping the motor running. Our normal alternator's field (the...

I'd bet $0.25 that the ignition is 180° out Pull the #1 plug, rotate the engine and stop when your finger is pushed off the spark plug seat, pop off the distributor cap and confirm the rotor is pointing to #1 if it is at #6, pop the distributor out and turn it 180°. put the damper to 10° BTDC...

Not a cam where you measure the lift with a yardstick and duration with a calendar! LOL

Sounds like the output is wired to the ignition side of the switch to me My $.02

if it is tilt, a mid '60s chevy El Camino with tilt uses the same switch (down at the firewall), It is much less expensive than a MoPar PN. I have one on my '66 Monaco. I believe I purchased it from Summit racing for about $80

Sounds like lean surge to me. My $.02

To me, that sounds like your 2nd gear band is slipping, it works OK at moderate throttle, but at WOT it slips.it could be out of adjustment or your fluid level is low. make sure to check the level in neutral My$.02

My $.02: stay with the small block so you don't have to swap the trans. Swap the stater support in the trans to use a newer torque converter, a 360 TC won't install in a '66 trans. Get the different driver's side motor mount isolatior (340s and 360s use a different one) swap exhaust manifolds...

LOL I put a stick on fish eye mirror on mine!

Our heavy cars need a lot of traction, good tires are essential. no matter what car, matching the cam, converter and gearing is essential to making a car quick.

The inner I purchased from Layson's fits perfect, but I left it in a hot car, and it warped. I put it on a flat surface with a couple books on it for a week or two, all good now. You have to remove the chrome trim from the old lens and put it on the new one, I ended using epoxy from the back...

If it is smoking under acceleration it's possibly rings, if it smokes worse when decelerating/ideling, it could be intake valve guide seals or the intake gasket sucking oil from the valley. My $.02