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1964 and older opens have a thinner 1.25" thrust block. everything else has 1.5" thrust block.

Well you are close. The sure grips from1958 and up all have the same center thrust block as a 1965 and newer open rear axle. 1.5" It is the open differentials from 1958-1964 that have the narrow thrust block 1.25" so the axles are 1/8" longer per side.

Body on frame is 1959 and older Christine is a 1958

Replace the whole thing with a 65 and newer rear end.

Well I don't have any of those books handy. Figured some guys on here who know these slab side beauties would have this info in their head.

Are the hood letters the same on 67 and 68 Chryslers? Newport / New Yorker? Or did they change them up? Would be nice to know this, going to look for some tomorrow.

That's for a 1969 Chrysler 4 door sedan with a low perf 440

I doubt anyone will make a kit to connect up to headers without fabrication. Yes accurate exhaust is great for stock manifolds, you can put it on at home no problem. Done several, very nice fit.

Yes intake bolts are open to the crankcase. SB and BB

Did you check you messages?

Some engines will need sealer, most engines do not. Blow by? Crankcase pressure? I would put it together dry and see if any oil comes up the bolts. If it does remove, clean and seal them one at a time.

Choke pull off could have stopped working, or become disconnected. It is to be hooked to manifold vacuum and the diaphragm pulls back when engine starts. This partially opens the choke plate so it is not too rich,

On the cast iron TF you can leave the converter and bellhousing on the engine and remove the trans only. The FSM will tell you this. Yes they are heavy so support it well and good to have a helper getting it out.

I like to use anti-sieze on engine block drain plugs so they will come out years later. Do not crank them down like a lug nut. They are pipe threads and will seal with nothing on them.

The threads on an oil drain plug are straight threads, commonly 1/2x20 from mid 60's on up. So the threads will leak by design. The sealing is done by the washer between the drain plug head and the oil pan.

Sounds like you have done your homework on this. I like your game plan. The cast iron TF is a good unit, and if you can rebuild it yourself so much better for the wallet. The OH kit is still expensive though. Yes the shift cables are the same, I swapped one one time. Joanne's is closing down...

Yes the crank will swap in there, but the engine should be balanced. So now you are talking a complete rebuild of the 413. How far do you go? New cam &lifters or reuse them? Put hard seats in the heads and stainless valves? If 413 needs rebuild anyway fine. But if it runs good as is, then...

If it a flared line fitting the double flare seals to the fitting. The threads don't make a seal so leave threads dry. And if you seal the threads it can still leak by the nut on the line. If it's the nut that screws to the carburetor the gasket makes the seal to the carb so leave threads...

Sent you a PM with a quote on shipping

"Painless" is a clever marketing term, but they are a big job install. Not an entry level task. Just the amp meter wires melted? Replace them.