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No diversion at all! Yes, the Poly should have been the template for winding up the breathing on B/RBs, but alas, bean counters have PLENTY say-so in Motor City, even with genii like Vill Virtman and Carrol Shelby designing such righteous mills. Well, the Viper was their Retirement Piece...

Read that some yrs ago. Yes, you know well why I like the 1st generation machines. If ONLY they'd combined the canted angle valves of the polyspherical heads a bit more into the wedge designs, though, that would have meant more open quench high rpm emphasis. I like the low rpm curve closed...

You hit the nail on the head by qualifying the need for that extension with the Torker (and I suspect all other Edelbrock) intakes AND the stock 4bbl throttle rod. Yes, the damned extension metal struck me as straight machined aluminum, so it abides in my air/fuel parts drawer and envelope...

I LOVE the 1965-66 instrument cluster! Here's a restorative fix for oxidized circuits on your board: copper foil! you can stick it over old circuit traces, or/and use a little flux, solder it down in key areas of the old board, tin it over, et Lux facta ergo est! I used this on my '68...

Since I did such an improvement nigh 2 yrs ago now, you can look at what I achieved, and I'll list a little essential hardware, God-willing, sparing you some expense and trouble. First, behold: This was my very first iteration, with a Performer 1405, using the original 2bbl kickdown rod...

Go to SuperbrightLEDS.com and get a GOOD replacement for ALL four of your side markers. The FSM specifies the 1895 bulb, and a wide variety of LEDs can fit that little bayonet socket. I use SuperBright's stuff, and consequently have blazing bright red and amber side markers. I also feed the...

I pray your studs are at spec. Some fellow on the B body forum bewailed some bad crap from Mancini, likely asiatic, which merely relieved him of $$. I re-used old exhaust manifold studs but needed two new ones, and did well with a pair made with the Dorman label, a mildly pleasant surprise. I...

VERY WISE WORDS! YEP! I won't touch WHY this situation prevails, but it does. My Solution is to hoard NOS Robert Shaw 370s, among other solid brass treasures from the Golden Age. Been running the same stat for a couple years now, with excellent results, so I likely have a Lifetime Supply...

Sure as **** TOOOO HOT! How much fan do you have? How much flow through the T-stat? Have you pulled the stat and run it around as a sanity check? A pump issue can make hot green barf too. You know I optimize all the secondary stuff to keep my 383 cool. Still, I suspect your radiator just...

I've shopped for and tried a number of 22" radiators down here, but I can't give you any empirical data on 332, 26" sized stuff. I'm sure as **** happy with the 4 row copper job I bought this April, to replace the pair of old stock 1965 Mopar 2524984s I have, which, while totally wonderful...

THANKS big BIG! Big John. Handy datum. I'll likely use it this Fall.

FWIW2U, the best pan seal I've attained with this old '66 body consists of a good FelPro fiber gasket with a generous amount of red RTV on both sides of it. The Elders sealed it up pretty good, but AZ heat takes a toll on everything here, and with the pavement ambient temperatures around 150F...

I use only well sprung hoses, top and bottom on my radiator, with excellent result! I tried the molded hoses once, with piss poor results, dropped them quick, and never looked back. Ironically enough, the factory shroud for my 1965 22" 2524984 radiators has big, heavy gauge stamped steel...

EXACTLY MY EXPERIENCE! The Wise Old Dwarves said to stick w the factory steel pans ONLY, and to use OEM gaskets. Naught but bigger stains in my driveway carpet and admittedly CLEAN tranny fluid in my trans came from the after market ****, regardless of which expensive gasket or/and compound...

The latter. I too diddled w after market pans a bit. My octogenarian transmission guru advised against this. I suspect he finally Translated to the Big Shop In the Sky, but his youthful septuagenarian assistant still does business.

See if you can get under it, detach the cable, and manually shift the thing out of Park by hand, or with some small tool. You should jack it up carefully to get the rear wheels off the ground. This will be a bit tricky, but by releasing the tension on the drive shaft and transmission, it might...

OK, you're driving a '61 Dodge? When you say "Park," do you refer to the transmission or the "Emergency Brake" as it then was known? I KNOW you have a button and cable linkage on your tranny. Now, have you tried jacking the car up, crawling beneath it, and manipulating the linkage thus? OR...

Good stuff to know. The big muffler on my '68 looks very similar. I probably will install the dual exhaust I ran on Mathilda, which was made for a '67-68 to start with. Its all in very nice shape. Soon as the weather here cools down, I have that, and several other major projects to do with...

UPDATE!! I had to replace a rotor on my '83 Miser last month, and discovered that the rotor-caliper combo used on that truck saw duty also on late '70s Formal C-bodies. I'm not surprised, and am gratified. I'll stick with all drums on my Slabbies, which are my All Time Fave cars, period.

Yes. I get good results from my 4000/1 pair because they're as old as the car I put them in. All the "Old Guard" brand name 5 3/4" sealed beam lamps now are **** precisely for the reason given on that other forum, (which I too have read.) namely, the FACTORIES which made the Good Old Stuff...