Aftermarket Radiator

[azblackhemi]

My 69 Monaco is having overheating issues. Now granted it was 110 when it overheated but it still shouldn't. I've replaced the thermostat, fan clutch and flushed and put in new coolant. I've set the timing to spec and even richened up the carb a bit. The radiator seems to have good flow and it has about a 40 degree split top to bottom yet stll gets hot. It is an aftermarket radiator so I'm wondering if that has anything to do with it. What is you alls experience with non oem radiators? Not sure of the brand but here's a picture of the top tank and the tag with a logo. Does anyone recognize the logo?

 

[Big_John]

Searching the 8010332 part number comes up with APDI or Automotive Parts Distribution International. This is what I could find without spending a ton of time on it. https://www.aftermarketnews.com/agi...-automotive-parts-distribution-international/

The 332 number jives with Spectrum's radiator for a C-body, and it looks like the Spectrum in my car. I would not be surprised if it's a Spectrum radiator with a APDI sticker.

 

[azblackhemi]

I know Spectrum is a popular brand, what is everyone's experience with them?

Searching the 8010332 part number comes up with APDI or Automotive Parts Distribution International. This is what I could find without spending a ton of time on it. https://www.aftermarketnews.com/agi...-automotive-parts-distribution-international/

The 332 number jives with Spectrum's radiator for a C-body, and it looks like the Spectrum in my car. I would not be surprised if it's a Spectrum radiator with a APDI sticker.

 

[Big_John]

I know Spectrum is a popular brand, what is everyone's experience with them?

My experience has been good. My car tends to run a little warm with the AC and 90+ weather (like this past weekend's trip to Carlisle and back) but it never has overheated.

 

[azblackhemi]

My experience has been good. My car tends to run a little warm with the AC and 90+ weather (like this past weekend's trip to Carlisle and back) but it never has overheated.

Thanks John, although that brings me back to square one and I have no idea why it overheats!

 

[CBODY67]

"332" is the industry number for a Chrysler 26" 3-row radiator w/automatic transmission. That's the same number I bought for my '70 Monaco 383 N car, except I bought a genuine Modine replacement, back in about 1980. Worked fine with a 180 degree F thermostat. In some respects, it did run a bit warm in slower driving in the country, with the a/c on, but I also suspect that was due to a flaky fan clutch and possibly some gunk settled-out in the rear of the block. No big deal to me.

CBODY67

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

I had outstanding results with my "332" radiator as I've discussed here years ago. And other than the absence of the OEM part number and info stampings on the top tank, it looks entirely stock, unlike the very ugly aluminum units. My TNT would run between 190 and 200 depending on the weather, which are proper operating temps. I've noticed that guys install 160* or 185* 'stats and then expect the engine to run at that particular temp. Good luck with that, because that's not what a thermostat is for. The intent is that the engine won't run too cold in freezing weather and will warm up quicker by recirculating the coolant until that 'stat opens. And remember that the cooling system is pressurized. If you're using a 16 psi cap, that raises the boiling point to approximately 250*F, so if you're running it hard on a hot day, 225* is not out of line. Mine would do that and then return to 195 or so when I returned to driving like an adult.

This pic shows the lower holes that needed a slight mod to open the bottoms so that the rad slips onto the bolts loosely installed in the core support, but otherwise the fit and finish was perfect. The original shroud nicely aligned the the six mounting studs, btw.

Also, I installed a brand new Chrysler approved repro clutch from Tony's Parts. Store - All Reproduction Parts | Tonys Parts

 

[live4theking]

I believe I have a Spectrum that I bought through Autozone. It's been in the car for about 9 years now. Coming home from Carlisle this past weekend was the first time that I've noticed it run a little warm. About 200°, 90° + degrees, pulling the hills out north of Carlisle running 75-80MPH.

 

[65sporty]

My 69 Monaco is having overheating issues. Now granted it was 110 when it overheated but it still shouldn't. I've replaced the thermostat, fan clutch and flushed and put in new coolant. I've set the timing to spec and even richened up the carb a bit. The radiator seems to have good flow and it has about a 40 degree split top to bottom yet stll gets hot. It is an aftermarket radiator so I'm wondering if that has anything to do with it. What is you alls experience with non oem radiators? Not sure of the brand but here's a picture of the top tank and the tag with a logo. Does anyone recognize the logo?
View attachment 673522View attachment 673523

You say overheated, any idea what temp it's running?

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

You say overheated, any idea what temp it's running?

I meant to ask that question....which is why I discussed what I see as common misconceptions of what "too hot" is.

If "overheating" means it is puking coolant, you might have the water level too high.

 

[azblackhemi]

You say overheated, any idea what temp it's running?

235-240. It's for sure overheating! Spewing coolant, gurgling like crazy! Temp gauge pegged.

 

[Gerald Morris]

My 69 Monaco is having overheating issues. Now granted it was 110 when it overheated but it still shouldn't. I've replaced the thermostat, fan clutch and flushed and put in new coolant. I've set the timing to spec and even richened up the carb a bit. The radiator seems to have good flow and it has about a 40 degree split top to bottom yet stll gets hot. It is an aftermarket radiator so I'm wondering if that has anything to do with it. What is you alls experience with non oem radiators? Not sure of the brand but here's a picture of the top tank and the tag with a logo. Does anyone recognize the logo?

I've shopped for and tried a number of 22" radiators down here, but I can't give you any empirical data on 332, 26" sized stuff. I'm sure as **** happy with the 4 row copper job I bought this April, to replace the pair of old stock 1965 Mopar 2524984s I have, which, while totally wonderful, leak, being 59 yr old radiators. Mind you, the new one is made by U.S. Radiator, and works very nicely for us down here in the Old Pueblo. I suppose if I really dogged the car hard on I-10, then stalled around in rush hour city traffic, it might get as warm as 210F while at a stop. Run a few blocks though and it drops to 190F on a HOT day, down to 180F on not-so-hot ones.

Damned copper isn't cheap though. How much do you value the iron behind the copper?.... I know U.S. Radiator makes a 4 row copper 26 inch one with OEM row spacing for ~$880. I copped what I got through Classic for ~800.

 

[CBODY67]

Perhaps you need a good coolant recovery system?

 

[azblackhemi]

Perhaps you need a good coolant recovery system?

Does have a recovery bottle.

 

[Jakter]

Before I'd worry about a radiator, I'd pull the engine, remove the core plugs power wash and scrape everything I could fix any oil leaks and reinstall for nothing but time and a little money for parts.

 

[71Polara383]

Those 332s have been inadequate for me pretty much every time.

My cheapo ebay 26" aluminum works great in the wagon.

 

[Jakter]

Never had anything but a factory radiator in any of my old vehicles.
Before they hit the streets they are cleaned, flow tested and pressure tested.
If suspect they are re-cored.
Proper cooling system maintenance and they'll last for years working as intended.

Pay now or pay later.

 

[volksworld]

unfortunately new doesn't always mean good...while chasing an overheating issue on my 454 motorhome I wound up installing a defective thermostat and fan clutch...boiling it along with thermostat #3 proved it didn't open soon enough or as far...and every parts house I hit , regardless of their online description, was selling the exact same Motorad thermostat in a different box...I also noticed that I couldn't hear fan clutch #2 kicking in with the increased roar of the fan when the temp went up sitting at a light....so 3rd fan clutch...all of which ,whether you get a Hayden,NAPA, 4 Seasons or Murray are also the exact same part in a different box...so you cant even try another brand, its just keep buying the same part till you hopefully get a good one

 

[BigWally]

I'd get out my infared digital handheld thermometr and start taking some readings. You can find some strange things going on. but it will tell you if those new parts are workin proper....my 2 cents. Good luck!

 

[Gerald Morris]

235-240. It's for sure overheating! Spewing coolant, gurgling like crazy! Temp gauge pegged.

Sure as **** TOOOO HOT! How much fan do you have? How much flow through the T-stat? Have you pulled the stat and run it around as a sanity check? A pump issue can make hot green barf too. You know I optimize all the secondary stuff to keep my 383 cool. Still, I suspect your radiator just might be a bit inadequate. Yeah, get a better radiator. You know that in AZ, an extra radiator won't remain extra too long....