BAD69FURY
Active Member
The first picture shows the factory specs of 4 quarts physically in the pan. (Note remember+1 quart to the filter for a total of 5 quarts) factory spec.
187 oil pan capacity test.
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The first picture shows the factory specs of 4 quarts physically in the pan. (Note remember+1 quart to the filter for a total of 5 quarts) factory spec.
BAD69FURY
Active Member
BAD69FURY
Active Member
I needed to visually see this for my peace of mind. Only questioned this because the guy I bought my 69 from had always ran 6 quarts total since he rebuilt the 440. I've heard of other c body guys running 6 quarts in their stock 187 pans. ( 5 in pan +1 in filter)
What are your thoughts ? Looks fine right?
Also I should mention my 440 has a HV oil pump too, therefore think I'm gonna stay with my 6 quart receipe so I don't suck the pan dry.
Anyhow any input thoughts?
What are your thoughts ? Looks fine right?
Also I should mention my 440 has a HV oil pump too, therefore think I'm gonna stay with my 6 quart receipe so I don't suck the pan dry.
Anyhow any input thoughts?
BAD69FURY
Active Member
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
WTH?
Looks like someone tried to make a Hemi pan out of a 187.
Looks like someone tried to make a Hemi pan out of a 187.
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LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Homemade baffles?
Fury Pursuit
Senior Member
Nice!
saylor
Senior Member
i say do it try it wth why not, but on my own experience with my 383 motor, if i over fill it past some magic level, it will just drip oil until it finds its level that it wants, then everything is good.
Carmine
Old Man with a Hat
I don't think you'll have an issue, but keep in mind your engine doesn't sit at a zero degree angle, nor does your car when in motion.
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This is truly when you'll find out how well your rear main will seal. If I parked on an incline with that much oil in my Imp I think it'd leave pint sized puddles.
Yatzee
Active Member
I think you'd be wiser to extend the bottom of the pan or just buy one that's made for a larger capacity.
The engine builder for my 520" stroker specified that I run 6 quarts and there are no externally visual changes to the pan.
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
If you recall Bill there was much chatter about running 6 quarts in the BB on the Drydock many years ago. Many many guys agreed it was fine and probably should be doing
MarPar
Meat Man with a Hat
Ok, so a question from a simpleton...how far do you go up on the stock dipstick for an extra quart?
-try not to leak
-try not to leak
Alchemi
Member
Fill it to the line as normal, then add a quart
mark it with a punch or drill on the new level
mark it with a punch or drill on the new level
Personally, I'd say not do it. !
Back in the '60s, some B/RB Chrysler engines (especially RBs) were known to "kick-out" the first quart of oil, as a matter of course, "nature of the beast" sort of thing. Once the oil level was lower, it stayed there, generally. "Nothing to worry about", we were told, IF our '66 Newport did that.
"Windage" is somewhat more severe than might be suspected. Otherwise Chrysler would not have come out with their factory windage trays. I certainly would get one and add it to your engine, as the oil pan is off, if I were you. Moroso used to have some "scrapers" that could be custom-fit to the crankshaft to better get the oil away from the crankshaft counterweights, "custom matched" by the engine builder.
As the crank moves in the crankcase, it causes a vortex of oil/air mixture. Minimizing this increases horsepower to the flywheel. The tray also scrapes the oil from that vortex and puts it back in the pan, for re-use. If all of this windage stuff didn't absorb horsepower, the "serious" race motors (including some current Corvettes!) would not have dry sump oil systems.
Now . . . IF you were going out on an autocross course with high speeds, squalling front tires, and lots of corners that might stack the oil to one side of the pan, then the other, then the front, then the back, in quick succession, an extra quart can be added insurance that you'll have oil pressure through all of that "fun". Some guys in the SCCA stock classes add the quart for that reason. In their type of racing, it's more about driving skill than pure speed or horsepower.
ALSO, take a rat-tail file and remove all of the casting flash on the head and block oil drain-back holes, for good measure. This should ensure that the oil gets back to the bottom as quickly as it can.
It's normal for medium-duty truck motors to use deeper oil pans for additional oil volume. The reason for this is not specifically longer oil change intervals or to compensate for increased oil consumption per se, but most probably so the oil temperature might be a little cooler under the greater loads those engines see, as a matter of course. The pans are also deeper to get the oil more away from the crankshaft, too.
Personally, I'd consider the "6-quart rather than 5 quart" situation as not really being supported in "fact", all things considered. In "normal operation" situations. The additional oil might not hurt anything, but might accumulate more "tiny bubbles" in it from "aeration". Try it and see how it works . . . but don't hesitate to go back to factory if no benefits are detected.
Your judgment call.
CBODY67
Back in the '60s, some B/RB Chrysler engines (especially RBs) were known to "kick-out" the first quart of oil, as a matter of course, "nature of the beast" sort of thing. Once the oil level was lower, it stayed there, generally. "Nothing to worry about", we were told, IF our '66 Newport did that.
"Windage" is somewhat more severe than might be suspected. Otherwise Chrysler would not have come out with their factory windage trays. I certainly would get one and add it to your engine, as the oil pan is off, if I were you. Moroso used to have some "scrapers" that could be custom-fit to the crankshaft to better get the oil away from the crankshaft counterweights, "custom matched" by the engine builder.
As the crank moves in the crankcase, it causes a vortex of oil/air mixture. Minimizing this increases horsepower to the flywheel. The tray also scrapes the oil from that vortex and puts it back in the pan, for re-use. If all of this windage stuff didn't absorb horsepower, the "serious" race motors (including some current Corvettes!) would not have dry sump oil systems.
Now . . . IF you were going out on an autocross course with high speeds, squalling front tires, and lots of corners that might stack the oil to one side of the pan, then the other, then the front, then the back, in quick succession, an extra quart can be added insurance that you'll have oil pressure through all of that "fun". Some guys in the SCCA stock classes add the quart for that reason. In their type of racing, it's more about driving skill than pure speed or horsepower.
ALSO, take a rat-tail file and remove all of the casting flash on the head and block oil drain-back holes, for good measure. This should ensure that the oil gets back to the bottom as quickly as it can.
It's normal for medium-duty truck motors to use deeper oil pans for additional oil volume. The reason for this is not specifically longer oil change intervals or to compensate for increased oil consumption per se, but most probably so the oil temperature might be a little cooler under the greater loads those engines see, as a matter of course. The pans are also deeper to get the oil more away from the crankshaft, too.
Personally, I'd consider the "6-quart rather than 5 quart" situation as not really being supported in "fact", all things considered. In "normal operation" situations. The additional oil might not hurt anything, but might accumulate more "tiny bubbles" in it from "aeration". Try it and see how it works . . . but don't hesitate to go back to factory if no benefits are detected.
Your judgment call.
CBODY67
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I would not run 6 quarts without having a proper windage tray installed.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
What's with the hard-on for this elusive 6 qt. pan quest?
Five qt. pan. Add a windage tray if you need to feel better.
Then leave it at that.
There are things that one can over analyze to death and at best the end result most likely doesn't make any difference.
Five qt. pan. Add a windage tray if you need to feel better.
Then leave it at that.
There are things that one can over analyze to death and at best the end result most likely doesn't make any difference.
MarPar
Meat Man with a Hat
If you do go with a windage tray, buy this one. No fuss, no bs. and it actually does seal. I purchased one for my GTX and it works like a dream.
JEGS Big Block Mopar Windage Trays | JEGS
JEGS Big Block Mopar Windage Trays | JEGS
Exactly.
As long as the pickup is covered in oil and there isn't too much oil spinning around with the crank, you are covered.
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