Mopar_Mudder
Member
From what I read no one offers a truck floor other the C2C and that one isn't worth getting. Just want to make sure nothing else is available before I make my own.
1960 Trunk Floor
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azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
The C2C trunk floors are not high quality pieces but I disagree with everyone saying you're better off making your own. I put one in a 59 Desoto and while it wasn't anywhere near the quality of the AMD pieces I've put in B and E bodies it came out very good. You can buy a sheet of steel and cut it and form it and put the ridges in it but it probably won't be any better than the C2C one. So why waste the time? Here's pictures.
A friend of mine obtained a floor pan for my 1961 Chrysler New Yorker that I believe came from overseas, likely Sweden. He also bought a few of them for his restorations. I have sent him a note requesting the details of how you might also obtain one. It is very high quality and should be better than C2C but at least Chris, above, has had acceptable results with the C2C ones.
The one I bought from overseas cost me $350 a year ago. That doesn't include shipping since mine came with a group of those pans that my friend bought from overseas and he paid the shipping for them and didn't charge me that cost since he already had a few coming anyway.
The one I bought from overseas cost me $350 a year ago. That doesn't include shipping since mine came with a group of those pans that my friend bought from overseas and he paid the shipping for them and didn't charge me that cost since he already had a few coming anyway.
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It would seem that somebody with decent fab skills and a HUGE bead rolling contraption could easily make a trunk floor piece. Using the correct thickness and quality of flat sheet metal, too. Having the capabilities to make something that size can be expensive, I suspect, but doable. In any event, some "cut and fit", weld and seal, metal prep and paint, would be needed.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
Enjoy!
CBODY67
I would just add that I was actually surprised at how thin the trunk floor metal was in those early 60s Chrysler trunk floors and it is no wonder they didn't do well in the real world rust wise. It was significantly more thin than in our C bodies at least. So the C2C ones likely aren't far off in terms of thickness than the original ones.
One thing I noticed, years ago, was that when I had the rear seat cushion out of our '66 Newport Town Sedan, I noticed how seemingly flimsy the sheet metal under the rear seat was. I could easily deflect it with my hand, just pressing on it So, I was careful, or felt that I should be. Later, I discovered the rear seat footwells were similar (but had the carpet and jute under it for added support.
THEN. in the middle 1970s, while the solid vinyl/rubber trunk mat was still a bit flexible, although around the edges were starting to get brittle and easily break. UNDER the mat and on its backside, as the spring of the year was starting to get warmer (80 degrees F or so), on the backside of that mat and in the beads in the floorpan metal (of which there were many deep ones), was WATER/condensate (obviously from temperature changes over an extended period of time). First time that I'd really looked under there! Condensate? No way for any vapors to evaporate out from under the solid mat! When I got my '70 Monaco Brougham DH43 a year or so later, I pulled up the trunk carpet mat and found everything completely dry.
That was the last time I looked back there, under the mat, in the '66. To remove it would be to destruct it, piece by piece. LOTS of pieces. I always thought it would be nice to put NY trunk carpet back there, but haven't done that yet.
What has probably been the saving factor on the '66 was that it had a LOT of paint back there. So much that there were bubbles in the paint puddled in the stiffening ribs that were there when it went through the baking oven. So, for one reason or another, LOTS of paint on a body part that was hidden from public view.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
THEN. in the middle 1970s, while the solid vinyl/rubber trunk mat was still a bit flexible, although around the edges were starting to get brittle and easily break. UNDER the mat and on its backside, as the spring of the year was starting to get warmer (80 degrees F or so), on the backside of that mat and in the beads in the floorpan metal (of which there were many deep ones), was WATER/condensate (obviously from temperature changes over an extended period of time). First time that I'd really looked under there! Condensate? No way for any vapors to evaporate out from under the solid mat! When I got my '70 Monaco Brougham DH43 a year or so later, I pulled up the trunk carpet mat and found everything completely dry.
That was the last time I looked back there, under the mat, in the '66. To remove it would be to destruct it, piece by piece. LOTS of pieces. I always thought it would be nice to put NY trunk carpet back there, but haven't done that yet.
What has probably been the saving factor on the '66 was that it had a LOT of paint back there. So much that there were bubbles in the paint puddled in the stiffening ribs that were there when it went through the baking oven. So, for one reason or another, LOTS of paint on a body part that was hidden from public view.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
Mopar_Mudder
Member
Thanks for all the input. I am considering buying a bead roller to make my own, excuse to buy another tools. I still might do the C2C, it will be down the road a bit but I will post the results either way.
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