1964 Chrysler 300k brake upgrade

[Davea Lux]

The pictured booster, plus the "dual" notation, would be a dual-diaphragm booster, which would be for power disc brakes.

Changing the lines and m/cyl to a '67 C-body item would be the easiest way out. The "balance block" probably refers to the block that triggers the "BRAKE" light when one axle-set of brakes might lose pressure? Not sure how to wire that in on your car, IF that's all it does.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

The wiring is pretty simple, the parking brake switch lights the indicator bulb on the dash by supplying a ground. The brake warning does the same thing so just splice a 2-1 connector into that circuit and run a lead from the brake warning valve.. I probably would not use the booster in the ad, it is a Chinese knock off with a GM 2 bolt MC. It is also an 8" booster as opposed to the 9" used on C-Bodies. There was an 8" Bendix dual diaphragm booster that was used on the '64 Imperial that would be a better choice if one can be located and it should bolt to the 300 Chrysler mounts. Even though this booster was used with drum brakes, it would supply adequate braking power for discs.

Dave

 

[DaPoz]

I have a 300 K, had the booster rebuilt locally and had them check the fitment of this master cylinder. Direct bolt on! Made for drums F&R with two 1 inch cylinders for each circuit.
62 63 64 65 66 DODGE CHRYSLER PLYMOUTH DUAL CONVERSION MASTER CYLINDER | eBay

 

[Dan Scully]

I converted my 64 with a master cylinder from a 67 . I ,ll get the pt# if you want it.

the pt#

 

[Drew-Pritchett]

Yeah I ordered a mc from a 67' and will get the booster rebuilt.

 

[Drew-Pritchett]

Hey Dan on your 67 MC swap where did you purchase your flex brake lines? And how did you plumb it to the proportioning valve block(since the old one only had one line as opposed to the new one having 2)?

Thanks !

 

[Dan Scully]

Hey Dan on your 67 MC swap where did you purchase your flex brake lines? And how did you plumb it to the proportioning valve block(since the old one only had one line as opposed to the new one having 2)?

Thanks !

I made the brakes lines from this style of brake line, almost impossible to kink when bending. The armor you can buy from summit etc. The original distribution block I reused as I kept mine drum . I put a flare plug in the rear brake line fitting in the junction block . I then used a union to attaché the rear line to the outlet of the master cylinder.

 

[Drew-Pritchett]

I made the brakes lines from this style of brake line, almost impossible to kink when bending. The armor you can buy from summit etc. The original distribution block I reused as I kept mine drum . I put a flare plug in the rear brake line fitting in the junction block . I then used a union to attaché the rear line to the outlet of the master cylinder.

View attachment 380006

Awesome! Thanks Dan!

 

[Drew-Pritchett]

Ok Dave do you have a picture of your distribution block? How did you connect the two new brake lines to the factory drum distribution block?

 

[SF_James]

Hello, has anyone used the inline tube conversion for 1963 to 1964 on a 300(K) ?

Trying to save the time in bending up lines.

Thanks, James

 

[Davea Lux]

The pictured booster, plus the "dual" notation, would be a dual-diaphragm booster, which would be for power disc brakes.

Changing the lines and m/cyl to a '67 C-body item would be the easiest way out. The "balance block" probably refers to the block that triggers the "BRAKE" light when one axle-set of brakes might lose pressure? Not sure how to wire that in on your car, IF that's all it does.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

The simple way to wire a brake warning light on the older Mopars is to splice into the circuit for the park brake. A simple 2/1 splice block works well. The brake light is activated by supplying a ground same as the park brake light.

Dave