1967 Chrysler Newport Custom aka "Blonde Ambition"

[Norwegianmopar]

The Blonde Ambition has finally arrived and been with us for a week. We have driven it daily and have done some cleaning and tinkering like going thru the wiring - which needs some work - and set the timing, changed a few vacuum lines, replaced the ground straps etc.

We are redoing the whole interior this winter (in an upholstery shop) with new seat covers, door and rear side panels and dashpad in artificial leather and velvet inserts by our design and choice of materials and colors. All the foam is dry rotted so it will get new foam with a bit more support on the buckets for more comfort.

We really want to upgrade the whole electrical system too and upgrade the ignition with a complete kit from FBO Ignition.

Some upgrades in the engine bay with new wiring, hoses etc are on the list as well. The same goes for the trunk where we will clean and paint with some sort of anti corrosion stuff.

In that regard we would love to get some pointers and advice on parts to use and vendors to buy from. You guys have way more experience with these cars than us

So, here are some parts we are looking to get for the car:

-Interior clips, screws and misc fasteners (complete kits?) for re-installing the interior.

-Window felt, cat whiskers and other door/window parts that should be replaced while at it.

-Wiring kits (if available), fuse box etc for upgrading the electrical system. Misc hoses too in the engine bay.

-Sun visors (might redo the original ones at the upholstery shop) and rear view mirror (very loose and doesn't hold it's position very well).

Other "must haves" in the process are also welcomed if you have any pointers in that regard.

I am sure I will have plenty of questions along the way and will try to update the process in this thread.

 

[Norwegianmopar]

While on vacuum cleaner duty I found this dry and cracked piece on the hump between the drain hoses. What is it for and where can I find a new one eventually?

 

[CBODY67]

(Wiring harness in another '67 Newport in Norway?)

 

[Norwegianmopar]

(Wiring harness in another '67 Newport in Norway?)

Not many to be found over here

 

[CBODY67]

Not many to be found over here

So you are considering it an "insurance issue" against future failures? I can understand that if the prior owner did things that compromised that. BUT it seems like a very lot of work for little real benefit if all is working well. The Ammeter Bypass, though, can be recommended without re-wiring the complete vehicle.

By observation from over the decades, sometimes people cause new problems as they seek to remedy the possibility of future problems, which tend to be very low on the probability of happening.

I'll admit that I had a wiring issue on my '67 Newport. One night it stopped running, suddenly, and everything run by the ignition switch didn't work, although things whose wiring did not go through the ignition switch still worked. I traced "the big red wire" feeding the ignition switch from the bulkhead connecter to the switch. THAT's where I found a completely uninsulated section where the PO had apparently wired-in something that was no longer there. It was touching nothing, but was a bad section of wiring. I cut it out and replaced it with a section that was OEM-style solderless connected with a new 10ga red wire. All was and is well since. Other than the terminal at the bulkhead connector inside terminal can now fall off, resulting in a sudden loss of power to the switch again, but as I know of that, I just plug it back in and proceed onward, until I can remedy that terminal looseness.

Enjopy!
CBODY67

 

[darth_linux]

I'll second CBODY67's general sentiment of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Rewiring the entire car is probably a needless expense of money and time, with no real benefit if things are working as they should. Doing an AMMETER bypass, and adding headlight relays are probably the two best things you can do for your electrical system, and then just repair as needed. Below I'm posting some links to things that I've already bought or will get in the future for various repair projects. You may find many of them useful as you build your list of suppliers. Enjoy!

MOPAR RESTORATION LINKS
Home - Vans Auto
LAYSON'S RESTORATIONS - DODGE, CHRYSLER, PLYMOUTH RESTORATION PARTS
https://firmfeel.com/c_body_mopar_parts.html
Murray B. Park - Used and NOS Parts for Chrysler, Imperial, Dodge, Desoto, and Plymouth
The 1970 Hamtramck Registry - 1966 Accessories Catalog (Page 1)
Stephens Performance - "Mopar Is All We Do"

Parts Hound | Mopar Muscle Car Parts | Ebay Vintage Car Parts
Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
Home, Bob's Classic Auto Glass-New Auto Glass Windows Windshields Rubber Seals for cars and trucks from 1920 to today
https://nationalmoparts.com/product-category/c-body/
https://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/c-body-1965-68/
https://p-s-t.com/
https://dantesparts.com/ weatherstripping, rubber and cat whiskers
http://theheaterboxguy.com/
https://www.ebay.com/str/ricksmopars
https://www.lectriclimited.com/catalog/product/view/id/88576/s/spark-plug-wire-set/category/747/
rareparts.com - front suspension
originalair.com - A/C replacement parts
mrmoparts.net - window regulator parts
ttiexhaust.com - full exhaust systems
a-resto-parts.com - front suspension
ssnake-oyl.com - seatbelts

Herb's Parts - https://www.herbsparts.com/products.php?cat=443
SMS Auto Fabrics - https://smsautofabrics.com/pages/products
Carolina Engine Manufacturing - http://www.cmengines.com/Engines/Dy...erformanceCrateEngines/tabid/117/Default.aspx
Detroit Muscle - https://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/mopar/

https://www.detroitmuscletechnologi...64-76-dash-bulb-socket-for-194-bulb-5-8-hole/

https://www.moparmall.com/2584947-fuel-tank-gauge-sender-sending-unit-p/303-013.htm

air-conditioning conversion - https://www.originalair.com/mopar-r...9-1965-1966-1967-1968-dodge-plymouth-chrysler
https://www.originalair.com/converting-to-134a-mopar

dual exhaust kit - https://waldronexhaust.com/product/1965-71-chrysler-full-size-dual-exhaust/

Accurate Exhaust (Mopar only) - https://www.accurateltd.com/C-Body-Tailpipes-PAIR_p_357.html

HiPo Exhaust Manifolds
Driver side: P/N 2863408 = casting #2863409 (2.5")
Passenger side: P/N 2806898 = casting 2806900 (2.5")

62-67 intake - p/n 2205968

dash light bulb sockets - https://www.detroitmuscletechnologi...64-76-dash-bulb-socket-for-194-bulb-5-8-hole/

Brake Booster - https://www.parts123.com/parts123/y...~S6MA0MP79C73109115018k~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50001029z

Brake Booster rebuild kit - https://www.parts123.com/parts123/y...~S6MA0MP79C73109115018k~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50001029z

Steering gear - https://www.borgeson.com/?target=search&mode=search&including=all

https://vansauto.com/product/mopar-quarter-window-roller-kit-65-66-c-body-67-68-fury-ht-2dr-ht/

WEATHERSTRIPPING by Andy Bernbaum
https://www.oldmoparts.com/autos/19...wport, 300&pa_engine=all-engines&pa_odid=9218

https://www.billrolikenterprises.com/index.php

Hood to Cowl seal - from herb's
Home» C-BODY» C-BODY WEATHERSTRIP» Hood
Product ID2570974R
65-68 C BODY HOOD TO COWL SEAL W/CLIPS
Price: $40.00

proper quarter window seals - https://www.steelerubber.com/side-window-leading-edge-70-1556-80c

front window channel guide with H clips - https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/dodge/charger/parts/mn3104.html

 

[Fireflite56]

I might have the interior mirror and sun visors if you want to send me a message.

 

[Norwegianmopar]

I might have the interior mirror and sun visors if you want to send me a message.

I'll second CBODY67's general sentiment of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Rewiring the entire car is probably a needless expense of money and time, with no real benefit if things are working as they should. Doing an AMMETER bypass, and adding headlight relays are probably the two best things you can do for your electrical system, and then just repair as needed. Below I'm posting some links to things that I've already bought or will get in the future for various repair projects. You may find many of them useful as you build your list of suppliers. Enjoy!

MOPAR RESTORATION LINKS
Home - Vans Auto
LAYSON'S RESTORATIONS - DODGE, CHRYSLER, PLYMOUTH RESTORATION PARTS
https://firmfeel.com/c_body_mopar_parts.html
Murray B. Park - Used and NOS Parts for Chrysler, Imperial, Dodge, Desoto, and Plymouth
The 1970 Hamtramck Registry - 1966 Accessories Catalog (Page 1)
Stephens Performance - "Mopar Is All We Do"

Parts Hound | Mopar Muscle Car Parts | Ebay Vintage Car Parts
Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
Home, Bob's Classic Auto Glass-New Auto Glass Windows Windshields Rubber Seals for cars and trucks from 1920 to today
https://nationalmoparts.com/product-category/c-body/
MOPAR - C Body 1965-68 - Detroit Muscle Technologies, LLC
PST | Car & Truck Suspension Parts | Performance Suspension
Dante’s | Mopar Parts Catalog |Classic Muscle Car Parts – Buy Mopar Parts and Classic Auto Accessories Online weatherstripping, rubber and cat whiskers
theheaterboxguy.com
Security Measure
https://www.lectriclimited.com/catalog/product/view/id/88576/s/spark-plug-wire-set/category/747/
rareparts.com - front suspension
originalair.com - A/C replacement parts
mrmoparts.net - window regulator parts
ttiexhaust.com - full exhaust systems
a-resto-parts.com - front suspension
ssnake-oyl.com - seatbelts

Herb's Parts - Mopar Restoration and Performance C-BODY COLLECTIBLES, License Plates
SMS Auto Fabrics - https://smsautofabrics.com/pages/products
Carolina Engine Manufacturing - http://www.cmengines.com/Engines/Dy...erformanceCrateEngines/tabid/117/Default.aspx
Detroit Muscle - https://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/mopar/

https://www.detroitmuscletechnologi...64-76-dash-bulb-socket-for-194-bulb-5-8-hole/

https://www.moparmall.com/2584947-fuel-tank-gauge-sender-sending-unit-p/303-013.htm

air-conditioning conversion - https://www.originalair.com/mopar-r...9-1965-1966-1967-1968-dodge-plymouth-chrysler
https://www.originalair.com/converting-to-134a-mopar

dual exhaust kit - https://waldronexhaust.com/product/1965-71-chrysler-full-size-dual-exhaust/

Accurate Exhaust (Mopar only) - https://www.accurateltd.com/C-Body-Tailpipes-PAIR_p_357.html

HiPo Exhaust Manifolds
Driver side: P/N 2863408 = casting #2863409 (2.5")
Passenger side: P/N 2806898 = casting 2806900 (2.5")

62-67 intake - p/n 2205968

dash light bulb sockets - https://www.detroitmuscletechnologi...64-76-dash-bulb-socket-for-194-bulb-5-8-hole/

Brake Booster - https://www.parts123.com/parts123/y...~S6MA0MP79C73109115018k~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50001029z

Brake Booster rebuild kit - https://www.parts123.com/parts123/y...~S6MA0MP79C73109115018k~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50001029z

Steering gear - https://www.borgeson.com/?target=search&mode=search&including=all

https://vansauto.com/product/mopar-quarter-window-roller-kit-65-66-c-body-67-68-fury-ht-2dr-ht/

WEATHERSTRIPPING by Andy Bernbaum
https://www.oldmoparts.com/autos/1966-chrysler-newport-new-yorker-300/?pa_year-made=1966&pa_make=chrysler&pa_model=new-yorker, newport, 300&pa_engine=all-engines&pa_odid=9218

https://www.billrolikenterprises.com/index.php

Hood to Cowl seal - from herb's
Home» C-BODY» C-BODY WEATHERSTRIP» Hood
Product ID2570974R
65-68 C BODY HOOD TO COWL SEAL W/CLIPS
Price: $40.00

proper quarter window seals - https://www.steelerubber.com/side-window-leading-edge-70-1556-80c

front window channel guide with H clips - https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/dodge/charger/parts/mn3104.html

Awesome, just awesome Thanks

 

[Norwegianmopar]

We need to install new roof rail seals and I would like to get some pointers to get it right.

Is the rubber seal supposed to be glued in place and if so, where do we apply the glue - on the whole lenght of the rail or spots in certain places?

We have two new seals (came with the car) but no istallation guide or how-to info. If we are to use glue we wanna make sure we get it right on the first try.

 

[CBODY67]

The seals are designed to be installed "dry". They "roll into place" and stay there, due to one "lip" on the top side of things. No sealer required, but some like a dab of an adhesive at the corners or ends. To me, rather than the old weatherstrip cement (ole Yeller 3M), I would suggest some high-heat silicone sealer (as used on engines as it is a bit "more bodied" than normal silicone) for an extra bit of sealing integrity. Just a thin bead, though, on the middle of the wide part of the metal the weatherstrip rolls into.

With the inside lip in place, then "roll" the upper part into its place. Quite easy when you get the hang of it.

Get the rubber out of the container and lay it out in the sun to heat up and "un-kink" for a few hours. Then compare it to what's on the car to see if it's "for the car". IF it did not come with the pins at the ends, carefully remove the existing pins and reuse them.

Please keep us updated on your progress,
CBODY67

 

[Norwegianmopar]

The seals are designed to be installed "dry". They "roll into place" and stay there, due to one "lip" on the top side of things. No sealer required, but some like a dab of an adhesive at the corners or ends. To me, rather than the old weatherstrip cement (ole Yeller 3M), I would suggest some high-heat silicone sealer (as used on engines as it is a bit "more bodied" than normal silicone) for an extra bit of sealing integrity. Just a thin bead, though, on the middle of the wide part of the metal the weatherstrip rolls into.

With the inside lip in place, then "roll" the upper part into its place. Quite easy when you get the hang of it.

Get the rubber out of the container and lay it out in the sun to heat up and "un-kink" for a few hours. Then compare it to what's on the car to see if it's "for the car". IF it did not come with the pins at the ends, carefully remove the existing pins and reuse them.

Please keep us updated on your progress,
CBODY67

***Get the rubber out of the container and lay it out in the sun to heat up and "un-kink" for a few hours. Then compare it to what's on the car to see if it's "for the car". IF it did not come with the pins at the ends, carefully remove the existing pins and reuse them.***

The rubber did not come in a container, the seller had bought a pair of new ones and put them in the car before shipping. Not seen any "pins".

There is no rubber seals on the car now so we just have to figure out what's left and right of them.

Appreciate the help and interest in our project, it's a lot of fun learning about these cars!

 

[Fireflite56]

***Get the rubber out of the container and lay it out in the sun to heat up and "un-kink" for a few hours. Then compare it to what's on the car to see if it's "for the car". IF it did not come with the pins at the ends, carefully remove the existing pins and reuse them.***

The rubber did not come in a container, the seller had bought a pair of new ones and put them in the car before shipping. Not seen any "pins".

There is no rubber seals on the car now so we just have to figure out what's left and right of them.

Appreciate the help and interest in our project, it's a lot of fun learning about these cars!

I sent you a PM with my email for photos of the mirror you inquired about. I have those available to send anytime.

David

 

[Norwegianmopar]

I sent you a PM with my email for photos of the mirror you inquired about. I have those available to send anytime.

David

Just sendt you an email. Thanks

 

[Norwegianmopar]

Took off the valve covers yesterday to replace the old leaking gaskets. Well as you can see it's been a while since last time anyone was in there! The pcv valve hose was cracked and has probably been so for a while and the gaskets were brittle and totally shot.

Gonna put 1/4 of a quart of ATF fluid in the engine and run it abit before changing the oil to get more crap out of it. The car has hardly been used since who knows when, probably some 30-40 years ago and will surely be a lot happier when we put more miles on it.

We also converted the ignition to an electronic kit and installed new plugs and wires. Put the ECU box behind the headlights to the right of the ac radiator for max cooling and away from the engine heat.

Little by little this old girl is coming back to it's former glory.

 

[Margos Dezirian]

You may want to remove the oil pan and clean it out before you drive it too much.
Sludgy oil pan.

 

[Norwegianmopar]

You may want to remove the oil pan and clean it out before you drive it too much.
Sludgy oil pan.

Will do that soon, gonna drive it abit with the atf fluid in the oil to clean out some more sludge.

 

[Norwegianmopar]

Those of you who have converted from 2 bbl to 4 bbl, what did you do in that process?

Only intake and carb, or did you do cam and lifters ++, maybe even valves and hi-po manifolds and so on?

We are doing a light rebuild this winter going thru everything and replacing gaskets and seals as well as a new timing chain etc. We want it to be fresh and healthy until we at some point build a stroker and take it to the next level.

While at it I think I want to get a 4 bbl conversion but I also want to get optimal effect from that conversion.

I know many has used the Edelbrock Performer RPM kits with cam, intake and carb, but is that really optimal or "enough"..?

Value for money as well as power vs driveability is what most look for I assume.

Let me know your experiences. Thanks

 

[CBODY67]

A LOT of what might need to be upgraded can depend upon how you desire to use the car. 75mph cruising. 90+mph cruising. Drag racing? Which rear axle ratio and tire size? Fuel economy considerations?

My experiences with our '66 Newport 383 2bbl (with the factory 252/252 cam) provided an easy cruising speed range of 75-90mph with the 2.76 and H78-14 tire size (about 28.6 mph/1000rpm) and used to get about 15mpg doing that. My '70 Monaco 383 4bbl (256/260 cam, like '67+ 383 2bbls and '66+ 4bbls came with) would do about 17mpg @ 75mph (3.23 gears with H78-15 tire size and about 25mph/1000rpm). In both cases, about 2800rpm cruise.

I know the first impression is to (as my late machine shop operative used to say) "Go to the bottom the page to buy parts" (as that's where the "big numbers" are, which can mean 5500rpm power. In normal driving, rpm levels seldom get to that point except at WOT for a few seconds. ONE thing is that some components have usually benefited from the 50+ years of development. Areas as better cam lobe designs and cyl head port flow orientations, particularly at the lower lift segments. Basic orientation of making the "air pump" a better air pump. Getting air into and through the system.

Lunati used to have a selection of cams which they had "made better" than the prior factory HP cams. The particular one which a few members in here was the "reimagined" Chrysler HP cam, sourced from Summit Racing at a discounted price. Normal flat tappet hydraulic. Pairing that cam with some later-design aluminum cyl heads (modern combustion chamber design and port orientations) can help things make power more efficiently. Then some larger-diameter HP manifolds or TTI headers/exhaust system to round things out on the output side of things.

So far, nothing too wild, per se. As to intake manifolds, I might lean more toward the normal Edelbrock Performer intake manifold for its lower rpm orientations, with a AVS2 625cfm-type carb. Some in here like the Performer RPM, which might work well if the cruising speeds are elevated past the 3000rpm range.

Hidden power can be found if Mahle builds pistons (in the desired size/oversize) with their "MM" ring package. Add some newer plateau honing and that can yield a slightly higher compression ratio with less frictional drag in the process. Then a Sanden a/c compressor for less weight and less power consumption when the a/c is on. Normal volume and pressure oil pump is fine. See what others in your part of the world are using for an electronic ignition kit, especially relating to availability of the control box.

Of course, a good set of HD shocks and quality brake linings are important, too. As can be a new (and tighter) power steering gear box.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[Norwegianmopar]

I think we will try to find a set of fresh 906 heads and get a a nice cam, intake and a 4 bbl carb. Hi-Po manifolds would be great too.

A buddy of mine will rering and reseal the engine this winter and we want to paint it while it's out of the car. Original look is prefered here.

Might get a shift kit for the trans as well while at it.

 

[Norwegianmopar]

Looking for the following parts:

-Reverse light switch for the trans.
-Flasher switch.

Both are defect and needs replacing. I have seen flasher switches on eBay but checking with you guys too.