1967 Plymouth Sport Fury convertible project

Thanks guys.

Now it was time to close down the summer cruising, even though the car was all the time under some fixing, I was able to drive 4000 miles :)

Stripping the car down:





Either of the front fenders were original, the other one was from Fury III or VIP (extra holes for the chrome line) and the other from Fury I or II.

Some signs of poor sheet metal work appeared...



The convertible roof frame also requires some attention:



The front floor was already done when imported to Finland in 2007, so nothing to do there except repaint.


Transmission pan was leaking and I came across this Finnish handmade alternative with more oil volume and a hole for changing oils...
It is made of aluminium and has the grill for cooling.




Almost naked...



On the trailer ready to be moved to first bodyshop/painter...

 
Yeah Stan, I'm under the impression that this thread isn't happening in real time. He's catching us up little by little.
 
OK. I was having to deal with Forum Space - Time Continuum which I was never good at. A.D.D., ya know....
 
Like said before, I had prepared to change the quarter panels and bought them from Ebay. When we cut the quarters away, there was a bit of a suprise... Interesting way of fixing things :)







Then the body was sandblasted and painted with red rust preventive paint before cutting more.



Since the sandblasting revealed that the whole trunk was in pretty bad shape, we cut the floor away...



Restored door hinge, now it works as new.


Corrosion everywhere, this time under the windshield...
 
Fixing the tank

As mentioned earlier, the gas tank got itself on the list of things to be fixed. It had leaked from several places and for quick fix I used the chemical metal.

Now it was time to fix the tank permanently. I decided to go for U.S. STANDARD TANK SEALER, which seemed to be working solution, at least I did not find any negative feedback of it. Tank sealer inside the tank and then on the outside I used chemical metal and POR-15 rust preventive paint.







Now we just have wait and see whether the sealer works or not :)
 
Got new rims...



These will look sweet :eek:s_dancing2:

 
Enough with the history, let's go to this summer...

The car was moved to another paintshop in June, as the previous painter had some motivation challenges. Now hoping to get the car back before it snows again :)



While the car gets body work and painting done, I have still tons of things to be fixed. In case you have not noticed, I have a bit of a problem with rust... I hate it.

And of course the dash board is also rusted from everywhere:








And while I was examining the dashboard and turning it to different positions on my yard, of course I managed to break the dashboard top with small rock on the ground

:eek:ops::



So that has to be fixed as well, which is a shame as it was otherwise in quite good condition. However, now I had a reason to take it off and might as well take everything else off the dashboard and do some sandblasting :)

Glovebox about to be removed


Nice speaker, perhaps original?


Going tomorrow to get evaluation how much does the covering of that and door panels cost...
 
now I had a reason to take it off and might as well take everything else off the dashboard and do some sandblasting
And that how it snowballs....

For me, it was the left upper control arm bump stop.....
 
True. As this is my very first car project, seems that I have those snowball effects everywhere eg. here:



Is it really so that the torsion bar bushings are not available anymore? I cannot find anyone who would be selling hose.
 
No bushings on T-bars.
The torsion bar seals that are being sold these days are only good for T-bars up to .98" in diameter.
Over that, NO GO.
Ask me how I know.... :BangHead:
They still sell the Mopar Performance T-bar seal set with "C" clips.
Over 1", Bill Grissom came up with a beautiful solution:

http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar...rsion-bars-photos-and-hints&highlight=torsion

His solution was a week too late for me. Of course...:rant:
 
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No bushings on T-bars.

Over 1", Bill Grissom came up with a beautiful solution:

http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar...rsion-bars-photos-and-hints&highlight=torsion

I tried to read that thread earlier but had some challenges with my English... But Now I got it, had to google a bit the CV joint boot before understanding :)

Ok, I will be removing the front steering totally next Monday, so let's see then whether I need to use that trick.

BTW, the cost estimate for restoring the door panels and dashboard top is about 600 EUR.

I also ordered today the KYB shocks from Rockauto to both ends based on the discussion in the other thread.
 
I tried to read that thread earlier but had some challenges with my English... But Now I got it, had to google a bit the CV joint boot before understanding :)

Ok, I will be removing the front steering totally next Monday, so let's see then whether I need to use that trick.

BTW, the cost estimate for restoring the door panels and dashboard top is about 600 EUR.

I also ordered today the KYB shocks from Rockauto to both ends based on the discussion in the other thread.

Make sure you get the KYB Gas-A-Just shocks.......big difference than the cheaper KYB shocks.
 
Today I got the torsion bars in the mail from 1965 Fury. Seems OK for 20 EUR :)





Then took the rest of the parts off dashboard, ready to sandblast.

 
Especially being overseas.......I remember how hard it was when I was stationed in Europe to get parts for my American cars. I use to get my Dad to mail them to me.
 
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