WANTED 1968 new yorker headlight switch

[live4theking]

Scott,
Here's a picture of the back of the switch I have. I was unable to check it with a meter so I used a short piece, a battery, and a test light.

This is actually two switches in one. You have two power feeds (hots, positives whatever you want to call them) B1 at the bottom for the headlights and B2 closer to the top.

Headlight portion of switch
Connect the piece of wire to the positive (+) terminal on the battery then connect it to B1. Clip your test light to the negative (-) terminal on the battery. Place the switch all the way up. Touch the probe end of the test light to the terminal on the top of the switch, you should have power.

Parking / Taillight portion of switch
Connect the piece of wire to the positive (+) terminal on the battery then connect it to B2. Clip your test light to the negative (-) terminal on the battery. Place the switch in the center position. Touch the probe end of your test light to the terminals labeled Parking Front and Parking Rear, both should have power.

As a side note even though this switch does not control the power to your brake lights the power for the brake lights is taken from terminal B2. The power then goes to the brake light switch (stop Lamp Switch in the FSM)

 

[scott cacciamani]

Scott,
Here's a picture of the back of the switch I have. I was unable to check it with a meter so I used a short piece, a battery, and a test light.
View attachment 349839
This is actually two switches in one. You have two power feeds (hots, positives whatever you want to call them) B1 at the bottom for the headlights and B2 closer to the top.

Headlight portion of switch
Connect the piece of wire to the positive (+) terminal on the battery then connect it to B1. Clip your test light to the negative (-) terminal on the battery. Place the switch all the way up. Touch the probe end of the test light to the terminal on the top of the switch, you should have power.

Parking / Taillight portion of switch
Connect the piece of wire to the positive (+) terminal on the battery then connect it to B2. Clip your test light to the negative (-) terminal on the battery. Place the switch in the center position. Touch the probe end of your test light to the terminals labeled Parking Front and Parking Rear, both should have power.

As a side note even though this switch does not control the power to your brake lights the power for the brake lights is taken from terminal B2. The power then goes to the brake light switch (stop Lamp Switch in the FSM)

Thanks i will do these tests.

 

[live4theking]

i see nothing on that switch that could possibly feed the brake lights

I initial thought that too until I looked into the wiring diagram closely, wire D3-18P.

 

[cbarge]

i see nothing on that switch that could possibly feed the brake lights

B2 is a battery feed and the pink wire(s) from the switch goes to the brake pedal switch as John mentioned D3-18P

 

[scott cacciamani]

The switch does feed the brake lights, this is confirmed. At least on this 1968 Chrysler New Yorker. This is mentioned above and tested by me. One hot wire goes to the fuse box marked brake/something. The other hot wire goes to the brake light switch. I have rebuilt the switch and it tests ok using a 12 volt power supply for both brake and running lights, front & rear. I will plug the the switch in tomorrow and see what is what.
scott

 

[cbarge]

The switch does feed the brake lights, this is confirmed. At least on this 1968 Chrysler New Yorker. This is mentioned above and tested by me. One hot wire goes to the fuse box marked brake/something. The other hot wire goes to the brake light switch. I have rebuilt the switch and it tests ok using a 12 volt power supply for both brake and running lights, front & rear. I will plug the the switch in tomorrow and see what is what.
scott

 

[scott cacciamani]

Sanded the bulb grounds. Put headlight switch it. Put the signal switch in and we have everything working. Even the horn. The only problem with the horn is that it beeps when pushing or pulling on one side of the steering wheel. I believe this is because there is too much play in the top bearing. I may have to run a separate horn button. Thanks for everyone who took the time to help. I would not have been able to fix this without it. Lets hope it stays fixed.
Scott

 

[live4theking]

Success. Glad to have been able to help. How about some more pictures of the car now.

 

[cbarge]

yippers!
Back on the road again!

 

[cbarge]

The only problem with the horn is that it beeps when pushing or pulling on one side of the steering wheel. I believe this is because there is too much play in the top bearing. I may have to run a separate horn button.
Scott

The clip on the steering shaft if not installed in the proper and tight slot can make the wheel sloppy.
Was the clock spring installed correctly??
Sometime the new stitch may have a longer contact rubbing the clock spring and can be trimmed/filed back a little.

 

[scott cacciamani]

The clip on the steering shaft if not installed in the proper and tight slot can make the wheel sloppy.
Was the clock spring installed correctly??
Sometime the new stitch may have a longer contact rubbing the clock spring and can be trimmed/filed back a little.

your speaking above my head. i think i know what your talking about but what is the stitch and clock spring. It seems the clock spring only goes on one way if it is what i think. I don't know how to past the url for photos
scott

 

[scott cacciamani]

Here are a few. The church is the one in the Godfather.

 

[live4theking]

That is almost the exactly the same as my first NYer. I'm very partial to that color.

 

[cbarge]

your speaking above my head. i think i know what your talking about but what is the stitch and clock spring. It seems the clock spring only goes on one way if it is what i think. I don't know how to past the url for photos
scott

Switch.... Turn signal switch..i misspelled sorry.
The switch has the copper or brass contact for the horn it sticks out and touches the back of the steering wheel.
.

 

[scott cacciamani]

Switch.... Turn signal switch..i misspelled sorry.
The switch has the copper or brass contact for the horn it sticks out and touches the back of the steering wheel.
.

That's in and sits on a spring. The clock spring is the plastic piece that contacts it? That's seems to go in only one way, It would help if i understood the thing. everything is making contact, pushing the blades on the steering wheel does what? Makes a contact, breaks a contact? Scott

 

[cbarge]

Wish I was there to explain better.
So if everything is where it belongs and works,the horn should not honk when turning,etc.

 

[scott cacciamani]

I must have put something back wrong. The horn works as it should when pressing the arms in the steering wheel but as i say, will peep by putting some force the one side of the steering wheel. All in all i'm happy though, he can use the car. I'll figure out the horn.
thanks