1969 Chrysler 300 no start

Dare I say it?
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OK. I'm gonna leave some food for thought and then STFU for the rest of the evening.

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Don't laugh. Let's just think about it before you say that it's just reiterating the obvious.
 
OK. I'm gonna leave some food for thought and then STFU for the rest of the evening.

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Don't laugh. Let's just think about it before you say that it's just reiterating the obvious.
Yes this is the convo I had with DaveLux with regards the run/start circuits which I checked and found are correct, the new wiring is so very simple, there are four wires, two that end in a plug that goes on the distributor, no way to get that wrong, then the black wire goes to the neg coil terminal and the blue goes to the ballast, and that's all of it. I put the blue wire to the side that was hot with ignition on. The other side was cold until you hit crank, which is what it is doing. So, the way I wired it, yup it's right.
 
Anyhoo, I have not touched the engine today preferring to walk away for awhile. I kept myself occupied with other parts of the car, the pics are self explanatory. The orange painted rockers and inlet manifold in the background will eventually go on the car too.

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is it possible you lost compression due to fuel washing the cylinders?
 
I just went through this exact same process. Even though I have a small block 360 it was the same EXACT process. I even checked the timing chain slack as well. I changed plugs, fuel, filter, ignition components, still nothing. I was able to get a few cracks and pops, a little running by rotating distributor to FULL advance. Unfortunately, even tho I had checked, The cam sprocket on the chain was wasted. Even tho it was missing teeth and it jumped, it was on a set of teeth most of the time. It was so bad after I got the cover off, I was able to lift and remove chain with both sprockets still bolted down.
If you read my first post in my thread it’s very detailed. Bigger job, but still has to be done. Good luck to you, sorry for the struggles I know the pain.
This was nearly 200 degrees out, with the distributor at full advance. Crank sprocket mark straight up (TDC #1) and the cam sprocket mark at about 7 o’clock, when they are both supposed to be straight up at 12 o’clock for proper timing. Still ran, I think it was just catching cylinder #6 to run.


Before this, I had no pop offs or nothing. Had dist. At full advance.
 
Did you ever get this figured out? Or you gonna leave us in suspense a little longer????.....lol
I pulled out the engine wiring harness today since it was a fire waiting to happen and while doing that found the AC power wire spliced into the hot wire for the positive terminal of the coil. Don't ask, I have no idea. Also this engine bay uses the older mechanical regulator so the Chryslers electronic one isn't period correct AND explains why the wires were hand twisted together and covered in electrical tape. EEK!!
I have a near mint wiring harness to replace it with and only modifications I had to do was change over the cruise control wires to the new harness and solder in the power wire from the new ECU wiring harness, I used heat shrink tube to cover the new splice.
Also I fitted all the newly painted armrests.
Pics to follow soon!
 
I just went through this exact same process. Even though I have a small block 360 it was the same EXACT process. I even checked the timing chain slack as well. I changed plugs, fuel, filter, ignition components, still nothing. I was able to get a few cracks and pops, a little running by rotating distributor to FULL advance. Unfortunately, even tho I had checked, The cam sprocket on the chain was wasted. Even tho it was missing teeth and it jumped, it was on a set of teeth most of the time. It was so bad after I got the cover off, I was able to lift and remove chain with both sprockets still bolted down.
If you read my first post in my thread it’s very detailed. Bigger job, but still has to be done. Good luck to you, sorry for the struggles I know the pain.
This was nearly 200 degrees out, with the distributor at full advance. Crank sprocket mark straight up (TDC #1) and the cam sprocket mark at about 7 o’clock, when they are both supposed to be straight up at 12 o’clock for proper timing. Still ran, I think it was just catching cylinder #6 to run.


Before this, I had no pop offs or nothing. Had dist. At full advance.

Yup, if all else fails then yes, this will be the last resort.
 
You mentioned already having spark though. Hopefully it’s as simple as a crossed wire. Keep us posted!
 
I pulled out the engine wiring harness today since it was a fire waiting to happen and while doing that found the AC power wire spliced into the hot wire for the positive terminal of the coil. Don't ask, I have no idea. Also this engine bay uses the older mechanical regulator so the Chryslers electronic one isn't period correct AND explains why the wires were hand twisted together and covered in electrical tape. EEK!!

YIKES

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I feel your pain. I ripped out all the old Electronic Ignition Conversion that was hacked into the harness on my 79 E58 300 and replaced everything with new Summit Racing components. No start. Checked Wiring replaced ECU, Ballast, Coil, Wires was only getting a weak spark on initial crank then nothing. Pick up coil in the dizzy maybe? Nope, the "New" (China) made distributor was 2mm shorter than the old one and wasn't connecting with the drive shaft off the cam. Friggin engine was turning over but the dizzy wasn't turning. Looked at both side by side but could not see the difference until I brought out a caliper. 5 Hours of foolin around because of crap NEW parts!
 
I feel your pain. I ripped out all the old Electronic Ignition Conversion that was hacked into the harness on my 79 E58 300 and replaced everything with new Summit Racing components. No start. Checked Wiring replaced ECU, Ballast, Coil, Wires was only getting a weak spark on initial crank then nothing. Pick up coil in the dizzy maybe? Nope, the "New" (China) made distributor was 2mm shorter than the old one and wasn't connecting with the drive shaft off the cam. Friggin engine was turning over but the dizzy wasn't turning. Looked at both side by side but could not see the difference until I brought out a caliper. 5 Hours of foolin around because of crap NEW parts!
I did some searching before recommending which system for Dale to buy, this is the kit that Rick Ehrenberg sells which according to his description is all made to OEM specs by an original vendor and is superior to much of the Mopar Performance product that had been available for a few years.
MOPAR 440 426 HiRev Electronic Ignition Kit Resto OEM Plymouth Dodge Chrysler | eBay
 
Okay, put the new voltage regulator in today after putting another engine wiring harness in place. I figured i would give it a kick in the guts just to see if I got something, anything different. And what happened, damned thing started right up!! It purrs! Well okay, obviously I am very happy everything works now, but hell, even hot wiring didn't do anything initially. It amazing sometimes what can stop a car from running.

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Okay here is a vid of it running just to prove it lol.


nice... So, you think they put a pretty "wild" camshaft in there too? I'm sure I have it in the papers somewhere, just wondered what you though from hearing it run.
 
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