commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Dare I say it?Im going with the thermostat is sticking.
Dare I say it?Im going with the thermostat is sticking.
Dare I say it?
Yes this is the convo I had with DaveLux with regards the run/start circuits which I checked and found are correct, the new wiring is so very simple, there are four wires, two that end in a plug that goes on the distributor, no way to get that wrong, then the black wire goes to the neg coil terminal and the blue goes to the ballast, and that's all of it. I put the blue wire to the side that was hot with ignition on. The other side was cold until you hit crank, which is what it is doing. So, the way I wired it, yup it's right.OK. I'm gonna leave some food for thought and then STFU for the rest of the evening.
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Don't laugh. Let's just think about it before you say that it's just reiterating the obvious.
I pulled out the engine wiring harness today since it was a fire waiting to happen and while doing that found the AC power wire spliced into the hot wire for the positive terminal of the coil. Don't ask, I have no idea. Also this engine bay uses the older mechanical regulator so the Chryslers electronic one isn't period correct AND explains why the wires were hand twisted together and covered in electrical tape. EEK!!Did you ever get this figured out? Or you gonna leave us in suspense a little longer????.....lol
I just went through this exact same process. Even though I have a small block 360 it was the same EXACT process. I even checked the timing chain slack as well. I changed plugs, fuel, filter, ignition components, still nothing. I was able to get a few cracks and pops, a little running by rotating distributor to FULL advance. Unfortunately, even tho I had checked, The cam sprocket on the chain was wasted. Even tho it was missing teeth and it jumped, it was on a set of teeth most of the time. It was so bad after I got the cover off, I was able to lift and remove chain with both sprockets still bolted down.
If you read my first post in my thread it’s very detailed. Bigger job, but still has to be done. Good luck to you, sorry for the struggles I know the pain.
This was nearly 200 degrees out, with the distributor at full advance. Crank sprocket mark straight up (TDC #1) and the cam sprocket mark at about 7 o’clock, when they are both supposed to be straight up at 12 o’clock for proper timing. Still ran, I think it was just catching cylinder #6 to run.
Before this, I had no pop offs or nothing. Had dist. At full advance.
Turn off the AC and the car will now start...found the AC power wire spliced into the hot wire for the positive terminal of the coil.
I pulled out the engine wiring harness today since it was a fire waiting to happen and while doing that found the AC power wire spliced into the hot wire for the positive terminal of the coil. Don't ask, I have no idea. Also this engine bay uses the older mechanical regulator so the Chryslers electronic one isn't period correct AND explains why the wires were hand twisted together and covered in electrical tape. EEK!!
I did some searching before recommending which system for Dale to buy, this is the kit that Rick Ehrenberg sells which according to his description is all made to OEM specs by an original vendor and is superior to much of the Mopar Performance product that had been available for a few years.I feel your pain. I ripped out all the old Electronic Ignition Conversion that was hacked into the harness on my 79 E58 300 and replaced everything with new Summit Racing components. No start. Checked Wiring replaced ECU, Ballast, Coil, Wires was only getting a weak spark on initial crank then nothing. Pick up coil in the dizzy maybe? Nope, the "New" (China) made distributor was 2mm shorter than the old one and wasn't connecting with the drive shaft off the cam. Friggin engine was turning over but the dizzy wasn't turning. Looked at both side by side but could not see the difference until I brought out a caliper. 5 Hours of foolin around because of crap NEW parts!
Okay here is a vid of it running just to prove it lol.